Author Topic: Front end setup  (Read 18889 times)

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Offline mightymowe

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Front end setup
« Reply #15 on: February 09, 2006, 09:45:45 pm »
the kingpin inclination gives you less tire scrub, which as I understand basicly moves the pivot point to the centre of the tire or wherever the kingpin is pointing.It makes the tire not walk forward and back so much when you turn the wheel.I think it also dos'nt transmit as much of the rough track to the steering wheel because the wheels dont have as much leverage on the spindle,because the pivot point is now farther out into the tire. We have been building our own and find that they steer quite well and if you can go faster through the corner then you are ahead of the others on the straits already so you dont need as much hp and always play catch up.
David Peters

Offline Squidd

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« Reply #16 on: February 09, 2006, 10:08:17 pm »
Quote
the wheels dont have as much leverage on the spindle


That's the pitch inclination I was asking about..It adds on in swing and out swing with input "from" steering linkage, but actually has a negative or "snubbing" effect on input "TO" the steering linkage...

I'm starting to see the beauty in it...
Randy Stys
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 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline jeffescortlx

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Front end setup
« Reply #17 on: February 14, 2006, 02:00:18 pm »
So, as a review if I understand correctly:

10º Caster.

3º Negative Camber.

Kingpin Inclination 8º?

Distance from center of wheel to kingpin pivot point as little distance as possible?

1/8" to 1/4" of Toe Out.

Is this right?

Offline George Herrin

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Front end setup
« Reply #18 on: February 14, 2006, 02:52:43 pm »
Quote
10º Caster.


Yes this is what I run

Quote
3º Negative Camber.


I run 3 degrees right front (top Leaning in) and 1 degree on left front on front axles I do not have the king pin inclination built into. With inclination  I run 1 degree on right front 0 on left front.

Quote
Kingpin Inclination 8º?


All our axles have a fixed 10 degrees inclination

Quote
Distance from center of wheel to kingpin pivot point as little distance as possible?


Correct. most of the time

Quote
1/8" to 1/4" of Toe Out.


Correct
George Herrin #6
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Offline jeffescortlx

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Front end setup
« Reply #19 on: February 14, 2006, 03:04:22 pm »
Thank you George.

Offline Scott

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« Reply #20 on: March 19, 2006, 12:37:42 pm »
George,
I notice on your web pictures that you have front brakes. Do the EC axles come with this option? I think its important to stop as fast as you GO.
Make sure all your duckies are in a row!

Offline George Herrin

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Front end setup
« Reply #21 on: March 19, 2006, 04:10:08 pm »
Yes front brakes can be added to any of our axles. I use hegar brakes they have a keyed hub. If one is using those simply state that when ordering the axle and I will put the keyways in the axles.
George Herrin #6
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Offline nothingtogain244

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« Reply #22 on: May 31, 2006, 03:16:00 pm »
How do you guys adjust the angles on your stock axels and spindles? My local rules state that everything has to be lawnmower parts. Also what do you use to mesure the angles of the front end?

Offline George Herrin

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Front end setup
« Reply #23 on: May 31, 2006, 04:21:15 pm »
Not alot of adjusting on stock stuff heat and bend but that weakins the parts. We use several different methods of measureing angles, my favorite is our digital angle finder. Its cool but costs $$$$$$$
George Herrin #6
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Offline Squidd

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« Reply #24 on: May 31, 2006, 06:05:10 pm »
Quote from: "nothingtogain244"
How do you guys adjust the angles on your stock axels and spindles? My local rules state that everything has to be lawnmower parts. Also what do you use to mesure the angles of the front end?


Depends on the type of axle you have...You really dont want to mess with the spindles, because as George said you can weaken them...

Some are easy enough to cut the spindle barrel off and tweak back or in to set angles..some even have the cart style "C" bracket but use the press in bushings and "L" or "J" spindles...again cut angle and reweld...

Simpler is when you pull "hinge" bolt to tighten chassis (you should) when you weld or bolt it back in...twist the top back...instant castor....

Castor.camber gauges are nice... but place a beer can next to a wheel...and 3/16" gap at top is 3*.... :wink:

For the more techniquely inclined... a simple school protractor...Mark angle, then cut a piece of cardboard for "solid" gauge...

Or if you know some one with a Nice Miter Box...have them make you one out of wood... (then you can keep the beer in the fridge where it stays cold.... :twisted: )
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A