Due to size...this topic is being split up...it will follow step-by step...but give me a few moments to post all sections of the build-Thanks!
I just race-prepped my 700 series tranny and documented STEP-BY-STEP what was done.
First and foremost…..I would have not attempted this without the help here at HEYMOW!!! The advice given here is priceless and just want to do my part and give some back to you guys!
This is pretty much the same as George’s RACE PREP procedure..except with some pictures and a few of my own additions.
For part numbers and other specifics…please read Georges post http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=192.0
First thing that was done was the tranny was taken completely apart. The only items left in the case was the input needle bearings.
The case halves, gears, shafts, keys…ect were complete cleaned and given a very close inspection for wear and any cracks.
The four shaft bushings WERE NOT cleaned in a solvent. They were just wiped off and checked for wear. They were just fine and will be reused.
Reverse gears/chain went in the scrap pile…will not be used in a race tranny.
I installed 4 long bolts into the lower case to act as a stand while putting tranny together.
Once all your parts heve been inspected and/or replaced…it is time to start the assembly:
First thing I do is to get the needle bearing on the input snout repacked with grease.
This is done by pushing some good quality automotive grease into the input snout.
You then take the input shaft in one hand and with your other hand/finger cover the opposite end. SLOWLY push the input shaft into the snout.
This shaft acts as a plunger and forces the grease around the needle bearings.
Once you feel that there was sufficient penetration of grease into the bearings, you can now remove the shaft and wipe away the excess grease that came out of the snout.
---From the factory, there was a O-RING on the bottom of the snout and the top as well. These will NOT be installed.
A SEAL will be installed on the bottom of the snout.
I placed the seal on the snout in the proper orientation. Squared it up and SEATED it with a proper size pusher (socket) and lightly tapped it into place.
I installed the retaining clip onto the input shaft “PULLY” side as well as a washer. I now inserted the input shaft into the snout from the BOTTOM . By placing the input shaft in from the bottom, you will not “ROLL” the lip of the seal and cause a leak.
Now with the input shaft pushed all the way up into the case…the next thing to do is install the needle bearing that goes under the pinion gear. REMEMBER….DO NOT install a O-RING….The gear oil will not be able to lubricate the input bearings if the O-RING is installed.
Now install the pinion gear and clip….I now “FEEL” the end play of the input shaft assembly…If it feels loose, you can add another shim to tighten it up….if it feels to tight..you can remove the top washer right below the pinion.
That takes care of your INPUT.
Now onto the gears!!!
MAKE SURE you inspect the keys for wear!! Look on the sides and top corners…if they show wear..REPLACE!!!!
Now Check the shift gears….look for nice and square corners,,,if rounded or chipped…replace
Now inspect the output shaft splines…if these are worn or damaged don’t even bother using it…get another one!!!
Now remember…EC sells sprocket adapters for both the FINE and COURSE type shafts.
The 2 sides of the shifting
gears are different. One side is flat and the
other side is cut out. The flat side of the gear
is placed onto the shaft towards the shoulder
of the shaft or towards the shifting keys.
The newer style SHIFTING WASHERS hade a raised radius ring..this raised ring goes toward the shoulder of the shaft.
I then install the shifting collar with the keys. The collar has a wide side and a narrow side
The wide side faces the shoulder on the shaft.
I take the keys and hold them in place with my fat thumb.
I then just slip it onto the shaft, and slide it down a bit so it self retains itself as an assembly.
Now we can start installing the shift gears onto the shaft.
First you install a shifting washer onto the shaft raised ring toward Shoulder on shaft….then install FIRSTGEAR with FLAT SIDE towards the shoulder
Now install another shift washer and SECOND gear
Another washer and THIRD GEAR
Another washer and FOURTH gear
One more of the raised washers and FIFTH gear
Now…you should have no more of those raised washers left…but you will have another washer that looks like this:
This washer has a lip on it that goes toward the shoulder of the shaft.
You now will have a completed output shaft assembly
Now we can assemble the COUNTER SHAFT
Install bevel spur gear and smallest (first gear counter) to largest (fifth gear counter) gears to the splined end of the counter shaft.
We can now install the shaft support bearings onto the COUNTER SHAFT. First put some grease onto each end of the shaft. Now install the bearings.
Now place this assembly into the lower case.
Now do the same for the output shifting shaft
Now make sure that the shift keys are not locked into any of the gears. If it is just pull back on the collar to disengage keys from gears. This is now in Neutral.
I now apply a little grease into the shifter pocket in the lower case
I now take the shifter rod assembly and place the pins into the grove on the shifting collar.
Now take the entire assembly and place into the lower case making sure that the shifter rod seats into its pocket.
Make sure that all 4 shaft bearings are KEYED into the case
You can now use your gasket sealer/maker to coat the outside perimeter of the 4 bearings.
Make sure that when you place the shafts back down that the bearings are seated and keyed into location.
You can now make a bead of sealant around the case edge.
Now you can add your choice of gear lube into the lower case. Add enough to cover the top of the input pinion gear.
I then rotated the input shaft by hand to make the gears rotate and check for good lube coverage.
Before putting the top case cover on..I put a little grease onto the shoulder of the shifter rod to help lubricate it in the case.
The top half of the case can now be installed and secured with the 6 mounting bolts.
Now we need to install the shifter detent ball. I put some grease on the ball and insert it into it’s location
install the spring and set screw next.
I tighten up the set screw to about 2 threads into the case. This can be adjusted to personal feel of how the shifter feels
Now we need to vent the case…..
The location of the neutral switch is a ideal location. I
I used a ¼ NPT brass fitting.
Now you need to shorten the threads on these fittings or they will hit the shifter fan and you won’t be changing gears!!
I took off about 3 threads..this gives me just enough clearance from the shifter fan.
I also installed a O-RING and a little RTV onto the threads before installing into case.
105 106 107
On the shifter shaft that protrudes thru the case, I also install a O-RING onto the SHOULDER part of the shaft.
Here is the final product ready for install!!!!