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Author Topic: 'Nother AP Question...  (Read 63472 times)
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offroadwhatever8
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« Reply #120 on: January 13, 2007, 08:33:46 PM »

How much hp do you think that 8 hp is putting out? what dose it sound like with a cam? do you have any video's? Sorry i have so many questions.
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Squidd
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« Reply #121 on: January 13, 2007, 08:53:19 PM »

The 22 "Special" (22 cu/in) moves right along at 7000-7200 rpm...

I'd "like" to think we're getting 1 hp per cu/in but that's tough on any flathead...

So without having it on a dyno I'd say somewhere in the 16 to 18 hp range... If Don see's this I'm sure he'll chime in with his guesstimate...






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Randy Stys
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« Reply #122 on: July 30, 2008, 04:21:15 PM »

cool that thing kicks grass
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« Reply #122 on: July 30, 2008, 04:21:15 PM »

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George Herrin
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« Reply #123 on: July 30, 2008, 05:03:18 PM »

Randy I would be investing in a new piston for that thing this winter. I have worked on 4 of those 22 motors of giengers now where wrist pin has pulled out and trust me when I say there was nothing left to salvage... Best catch it before it fails..... or you will be starting from scratch.
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George Herrin #6
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« Reply #124 on: July 30, 2008, 05:59:09 PM »

Thanks for the heads up George, but I think we may have caught that issue earlier..

I have the prototype or first engine built and in that first season I tore it down and measured and checked everything between each race...

About mid season I did notice some slop developing in the wrist pin bushings and had them redone to tighten them up....

I had it apart again last year and at the beginning of this season and did not notice any new play issues.. so we may have corrected the initial problem...

Again this was the prototype, out for experimentation, and Don was aware of the wrist pin issue... I don't know if he changed anything in later models or if you have run across some of the earlier models.

I do plan on racing it this weekend in IL and I'm heading out of town tomorrow after work so I guess I'll run 'er as best I can, hope it continues to stay together and check er' again next week..
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Randy Stys
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« Reply #125 on: July 30, 2008, 09:06:48 PM »

The ones I got there wasn't enough left of the piston to tell if there was bushing or not. Although I did find some crushed brass may have bee that not sure.... The pistons litterally were in millions of pieces almost as though it was a frozen glass and it simply shattered. Never seen anything quite like it in all my years, and like I said everything was history nothing was salvagable except the flywheel and tins.
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George Herrin #6
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« Reply #126 on: July 30, 2008, 09:38:08 PM »

I hate it when that happens... doh
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Randy Stys
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« Reply #127 on: March 14, 2011, 01:29:56 PM »

 Usually you would mount the caliper inside the frame because  it will stay partially protected from mud, water, etc.
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« Reply #128 on: October 06, 2012, 06:12:01 PM »

New guy here. I have been following your build almost to a "T". I have the exact same mower, frame and all. But mine didnt come with the engine plate or the rear fenders, I dont know for sure if it did have fenders. I have seen some with and with out. I am trying to build as close to "AP" rules but with out haveing a sanctioned track close to me, I am going with a 12hp Briggs and a 90* gear box/ragb. Motor is stock for now and will race it stock until I get the funds/experience to race faster. I also have motorcycle hydrolic brakes and master cyclinder. definately need to stop faster....lol

My question is since I dont have the stock engine plate or rear fenders, will it be legal for "AP" if I decide to travel to a sanctioned race? I have looked at the rule book but unless I missed it somewhere it doesnt say exactly factory engine plate or factory fenders. it just states that the engine must be in original orientation and that it can be welded in as close to original position as possible. I am making mine out of 1/8th in plate and thinking of using modified trailer fenders for the rear fenders.


thanks.
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« Reply #129 on: October 06, 2012, 06:18:48 PM »

If you check the rules you can use updated fenders and hoods. Like for say you have a old john deer. You can use newer john deer hoods and fenders. Also as long as you put engine plate back where first engine plate was its fine. Also you can use other flat head engines besides what came out with it just has to be 10hp or less. From what i read theres AP class running OHV now.
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« Reply #130 on: October 06, 2012, 06:21:37 PM »

I seen where it said updated, but wasnt sure on who bought out rugg as to what kind of sister fenders I could use. but thanks for clearing that up for me. and thanks on the engine plate. I do have a 8hp briggs I can use also but read on here that the 12s put out more hp stock than the 8. might just have to build the 8.lol
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Reese Kennedy
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« Reply #131 on: October 10, 2012, 11:00:48 PM »

I have my hood and grill mounted now and steering almost done. but I have some serious flex in the factory brackets that hold the steering column and the sides that hold the hood.

Squidd did you have any of these issues and if ya did how did you fix it? thanks.
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Reese Kennedy
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« Reply #132 on: October 11, 2012, 05:20:26 AM »

read the rules better hoss if a US build sheet metal must be from same manufacturer. You cannot put deere metal on mtd frame ion other words.
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George Herrin #6
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« Reply #133 on: October 11, 2012, 10:59:30 AM »

thats what I was thinking. So if I dont have the original fenders do I just not run any?  Also do you by chance know how/if Squidd had any flex in his steering and if so how he fixed it.
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Reese Kennedy
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« Reply #134 on: October 11, 2012, 11:25:15 AM »

You can put newer fenders from same manufactuer on it. As for the steering dont know.
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
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