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Author Topic: 16hp  (Read 15944 times)

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Offline mowdak1

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16hp
« Reply #15 on: March 02, 2006, 11:20:57 pm »
16hp Opposed won't handle that many RPMs from what I've heard. Word is they have a tendency to disintegrate at much more than factory designed Rs.
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Offline matt25001149

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16hp
« Reply #16 on: March 03, 2006, 10:57:05 am »
we run them in soltra mostly in super mod and i know guys that have been running the same motor for over 5 years now and that's around 4500-5800 rpm in a race now if u were to go and drive it down the road at full throttle you'd probly reach 6000-6500 rpm and that they cant handle (i know this from experience :oops: ) i have taken out two motors an 18 and a 14 the 18 went because the guy that had it b4 me put a new rod in and didn't torque the rod bolts down and the 14 burnt oil and ceased up that was my fault i didn't check the oil on that one

but ya man if u run lucas oil stabilizer in it and put sae 30 in it it should last a long while
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Offline tory

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« Reply #17 on: March 05, 2006, 02:25:34 pm »
Doesnt this moter still use a oil slinger?If so,is thickening up the oil that much not a good idea on a slinger system?LUCAS is a great product,all of there products are I sell alot of them but thats design for a pump system.I usually run a much thinner oil like RED LINE #10 synthitic,but thats in single flattys.Maybe the twins are differant.
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Offline mightymowe

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« Reply #18 on: March 05, 2006, 06:15:15 pm »
I think you want more viscosity in your oil to support the loads that you are putting on the parts the only place I feel thin oil helps is in cold weather the oil gets in there faster. once you warm up the engine the oil splashes fine. we use lucas oil stabilizer and amsol 10 40 and have never had a problem. The lucas helps the oil cling so you dont get dry starts.
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David Peters

Offline tory

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« Reply #19 on: March 07, 2006, 08:05:23 pm »
Been pretty happy with the red line 10(close to a 10w30 non det.) have tried both ways,seem to have less scaring with the #10 after disecting the moters,Also are you using a petroleom lucas and sythetec AMSOIL? Or the synthitic LUCAS? Keep in mind sythitics are genaraly thinner than petro oils. Have tried LUCAS in my IMOW though and did'nt feel real confortable with it .Just seems so thick.
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Offline mightymowe

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« Reply #20 on: March 07, 2006, 10:37:37 pm »
we have been using synthetic amsol and I didnt know there was a difference on the lucas I like it because it keeps the oil on the parts I feel thats important when you dont have an oil pump. Also we have been running Hondas and they are tough to start with.
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David Peters

Offline shan houlette

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« Reply #21 on: March 09, 2006, 06:54:27 pm »
Contact Joe Pease at bigomotors@sbcglobal.net
He's been building racing flathead singles and twins for years.
Have witnessed 16hp and 18hp smoke 25hp ohv's bad,im talkin PKI built hot motors.
                                       shan
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Offline bigbadmower

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« Reply #22 on: March 21, 2006, 11:30:21 am »
One more question about the flat twins. how would you run a tach??
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Offline bigbadmower

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« Reply #23 on: March 24, 2006, 12:34:25 am »
I was watching the bp race on speed and they said that you have to run a ohv motor in bp I thought you could run flat twins or did i miss understand the rule book.
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Offline mowdak1

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« Reply #24 on: March 24, 2006, 12:45:46 am »
I believe that was misinterpreted -

Quote from: "The Rulebook"
B/P: All overhead valve, and two-cylinder 4 stroke engines, 20hp and under. 42” minimum unaltered wheelbase. Mid engine frames are not allowed. 6” minimum front wheels. 8” minimum rear wheels.


The key points there being  "All two cylinder 4 stroke Lawn Mower Engines 20hp and under. The OHV Specification is added to include those in the BP class as they are expressly prohibited in other prepared classes...

Quote from: "The Rulebook"

CLASSES DEFINED: (based on OEM BLOCK designation)
A/P: Valve-in block 4 stroke engines 8.5hp and under. ( The largest Briggs block allowed is the Model 19). 34” minimum unaltered wheelbase. 4” minimum front wheels. 6” minimum rear wheels.

Crankshaft must be in original orientation. Engine plate may be welded to
frame rails in as close to the original location as possible.

S/P: Valve-in block single cylinder 4 stroke engines over 8.5hp . 39” minimum unaltered wheelbase. Mid engine frames are not allowed. 5” minimum front wheels. 8” minimum rear wheels.
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Offline George Herrin

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16hp
« Reply #25 on: March 24, 2006, 07:30:51 am »
You must realize that its a free TV show they make quick notes and baiscally hit the key points. But the best part is they wanted us didn't cost a dime and we got some great publicity!!! Doesn't get any better than that!!!.
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
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My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!

Offline bigbadmower

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« Reply #26 on: April 10, 2006, 09:49:27 pm »
I was wondering if you could hook up a tach to this motor?
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Offline George Herrin

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« Reply #27 on: April 11, 2006, 07:22:04 am »
sure can what kind you have in mind
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!

Offline bigbadmower

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« Reply #28 on: April 11, 2006, 07:25:23 am »
I was hopeing a jr dragster tach.
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Offline George Herrin

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« Reply #29 on: April 11, 2006, 07:29:21 am »
Just follow the directions that come with it.
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
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