Looks nice and strong! If you don't Ming me asking Flipper, is the bolt welded into barrel, then sleeve slide over and welded again ? Thanks. I also race on some ruff tracks.
Correct sir!....I ground the bolt head slightly at 12 degree angle to mate with the spindle barrel(not shown), the slid the collar over and welded that too...the failure used to be right at the bolt hex head where it meets the shaft...problem solved with the collar. The two 1/2 square "wings" on each side hold a 1" x 3" plate at the bottom, where the steering arm actuator welds to, can be used for a push pull, center pivot or direct steer transfer scenario. I use a 1.25" x .75" bore tube for the spindle barrel and replaceable 3/4" x 1/2" bronze flanged bushings. The way this works is the 1/2" x 20 tie rod ends act as bearings. I get all my Caster, Camber & Ackerman, These suit my situation very well for,......dare I say Mowercross....maybe not so much for the mower-Go kart racers.
Mark (Trbinrat) is your spindle "go to guy", he makes tons of them as well as front axles. My situation was different, if it were not for that, I would have his spindles/axles. I am sure Mark can come up with an extreme duty scenario for you guys too.
They break at the intersection of the shank and the head. Hence Flipper's Bushing, looks to weld the bolt head to the barrel then slip the bushing on and weld it to the head, at the same time lap welding it to the first weld. That way there is no stress at the intersect of the bolt head. I have done the same thing in other applications about the farm.
Travis, you are correct. Solves the problem. The bushing is actually 5/8 axle spacers.
