If you bore it .150 you need to drill four of the head bolts out and install 4 5/16” X 6 ½” grade 8 bolts from the inside of the block (epoxy around the head), this will be the two outside futherest away from the bore, skip two and use the next two holes. You will also need to weld the block for extra support on the outside of the block for two of the bolts as there is not enough original material on the block to support the tension for the bolt heads. I will have to check on one of my spares, because I’m not absolutely sure of the side to do this on. Also when you drill through the existing bolt holes, you will go through the coil support bracket, this will need to have a piece welded on it as the hole diminishes the support. The reason for doing this is when you bore it that big, there is not enough metal left in the head bold area and it sometimes blows the jug off the block.
1. Use Precision Cams grind (ask Mike) hands down the best out there.
2. Large top journal crank=Get rid of the syncro and use the ARC balance weights-then check the balance, have found these off.
3. Small top journal crank=normally does not have a syncro-absolutely must balance-if you cannot find my post, email me, it’s not hard to do, in fact I wouldn’t trust anyone to do it. We have a $50K machine here at work and it will not balance single cyl cranks.
4. Use the JE piston and the ARC rod, either get them from ARC or George at EC, cut the piston so it is even with the top of the block at TDC.
5. At the minimum, get George to install the bigger intake valve and use his keepers and retainers for the valves he will install.-Don’t even attempt to use stock valves-shoot for 40psi at 1” on the springs, no more
6. install his ¼” stainless steel valves (he puts 1 ½”, the biggest out there) he also welds up the intake ramp. These are light valves and with the bigger intake, you will have to turn the motor higher than you normally would. I don’t know the cost as I have him bore the block and install the sleeve along with the valves and retainers, for this he charges $430.
7. Make a copper head gasket out of .040 soft copper, anneal it and coat it with Copper Coat.
8. Unshrould the intake and exhaust valves.
9. Use George’s carburetor (EC)
10 If you can afford it, use the ARC aluminum flywheel, in fact for safety sake, buy it first.
11. Use the Briggs 5 hp hot coil.
Litle oversight, I just went and looked at the date on previously posted info, it was written 4 years ago. Basically that's good info, but I went to an even larger piston, made by Blossom. I also started putting small journal cranks in latge journal blocks for added strength although that's not a huge deal. Remember, small journal cranks weigh about 84 oz and large ones with the weights weigh over 125 oz, useing the small ones is like getting a aluminun flywheel. I also went to aluminun pulleys, This makes for a serious holeshot on the start of the race.