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Author Topic: That start of all my kohler ?? To come  (Read 1254 times)
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« on: April 26, 2014, 07:26:28 PM »

So I took apart my motor today when taking off the filter had to take off oil cooler to ..can that stay off or is it needed to cool oil ...this motor originally came off a vac system for a town over it has a 1.5/16 crank that is going in the garbage  and getting a 1 inch crank .. What's the diffrents from roller lifters to stock lifters ... I'm doing a mild build will after market rods work with stock pistons ?? Any help would be grate ...... Got ring gear off today to put it back on should I freZzer the billet one @ heat up ring gear ...??
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STEVE HENDERSON
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« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2014, 11:25:45 PM »

Zach Kerber can get you all the parts you need.

click his link in my signature.


I think the stock pistons are junk.   I know he has a kit with the rods and pistons.   He was going to offer total "kits" from mild to wild.   Give him a call, he can get you the info you need.

I'm not sure you will find a 1" crank.   I think they are all 1 1/8".   He did say if you turn down the stock crank to 1" you run the risk of breaking the crank.   That is why he made a new clutch for 1 1/8".

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Paul Krueger
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« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2014, 05:15:59 AM »

Yea I'm on a tight budget can't do clutch & motor he has kits I cLled him. A few weeks ago also.called midwest  my budget right now is flywheel & rods may be a cam by July
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STEVE HENDERSON
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« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2014, 05:15:59 AM »

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« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2014, 06:35:57 AM »

Maybe I'm wrong but I thought ARC had made billet rods to use with stock pistons. May want to check in on that if you plan on using stock pistons.
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Frank "The Tank" Woods

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« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2014, 08:38:38 AM »

Oil cooler can come off. There are 1" cranks out there if you look, I had a couple but believe I got rid of them all, I will double check though!  The Billets from Midwest are 1 1/8". Roller lifters are by far better than stock stuff, especially if you want to make any horsepower. Factory they are the hydraulic and they suck as far as keeping enough oil in them to stay pumped up. At the very least I would go for a solid/flat tappet type of lifter over the stock hydraulic. They are quite cheap if your trying to do things with lesser money, yet can still work in a camshaft up to 7500-8000 rpm. The rollers just allow for a more aggressive camshaft grind, but with that comes the rest of the valvetrain. I agree with Paul on the pistons, get rid of it. MWSC sells Diamond pistons at a reasonable price, we have had good luck with them in mowers and our pulling truck (4.600 bore @ 9000 rpm).
The freezer idea would be great for putting your ring gear on. I have done several crank gears that way, just don't get caught using moms deep fryer to heat your gears!!  bigsmile
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« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2014, 03:56:07 PM »

Right now I'm looking for reliability hp is next year..I was gunna do rods & wheel head work & a cam ... Lifters from a small block  ....don't have $$ for a billet crank ..roller lifters & a cam is about 600 $$ ... I'm looking to tern about 6500 or less so stock coils will work...  So stock pistons are junk cuz u lose a lot of compression ..???
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STEVE HENDERSON
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« Reply #6 on: April 30, 2014, 07:40:23 PM »

Stock pistons fly apart.   You don't need a billet crank.   My 100 HP FXT has a stock crank in it. 
Has a year of racing on it.   Testing a mod that will be available in the future. 
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Paul Krueger
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« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2014, 09:52:49 PM »

Hmm under compretion or rpm or combo of both
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STEVE HENDERSON
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« Reply #8 on: May 01, 2014, 10:23:34 PM »

I don't think it matters.   If they are used I wouldn't race them.   

Save up and build it right. 

V-twins are expensive!!!!
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Paul Krueger
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« Reply #9 on: May 01, 2014, 11:13:56 PM »

Midwest has a set of billet rods called economy rods, good up to 8500 rpm for $ 140.00 pair
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« Reply #10 on: May 02, 2014, 08:58:39 AM »

Not bad thanx dose arc make. A one pice fly wheel
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« Reply #11 on: May 02, 2014, 09:32:02 AM »

Yes ARC makes a Billet flywheel for these as well. It used the same flywheel body as the other ARC v-twin flywheels, just has a different hub and ring gear. It comes with coil brackets and you will need to use Briggs coils from an intek v-twin since they have longer plug wires than the vanguard coils. If you use vanguard coils it will work fine on one cylinder but on the other side the plug wire be too short. I tested the flywheel for several weeks when it was in pre-production and it worked very nice. Several guys run them now and they work great with no issues. 

And check out Midwest Super Cubs new Economy Billet rods as Bill mentioned. You won't find a better deal on billet rods for any mower engine. I have a few and they are very high quaity and work great!  They are perfect for lawnmower racing since most don't turn over 9,000 rpm anyway.
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Tyler Cromwell - Cromwell Racing Engines - Specializing in Briggs Vanguard and Kohler Command V-twin engines, and Honda/Clone singles from mild to wild! Built to win, Engineered to last.

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« Reply #12 on: May 02, 2014, 01:42:11 PM »

Wow awsome thanx likening the info so I got a small block lifter to day guy said they don't work over 6.000 rpm is this true
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STEVE HENDERSON
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« Reply #13 on: May 02, 2014, 02:18:26 PM »

Kerber has a flywheel that uses the stock coils.   And used the stock starter.  

I have one on my BP
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Paul Krueger
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« Reply #14 on: May 02, 2014, 02:30:30 PM »

Solid lifters will work fine, but make sure to get an EDM lifter with oil holes that have been heat treated.  Usually a set of 4 is around $50-$60. I have customers using them in engines and they turn up to 9,000 rpm with no issues and minimal wear after a full season. Kerber has a good deal on those.
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Tyler Cromwell - Cromwell Racing Engines - Specializing in Briggs Vanguard and Kohler Command V-twin engines, and Honda/Clone singles from mild to wild! Built to win, Engineered to last.

-Cromwell Racing engines and parts are home to numerous national championship titles and fastest qualifying times.

-Love God, Love Others -
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