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Author Topic: 40 wide  (Read 2331 times)
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stephenson racing
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« on: December 03, 2013, 12:43:13 PM »

Just wondering how everyone is getting to 40 wide on old builds
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LC
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« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2013, 12:48:40 PM »

My opinion would be to leave the front end alone unless you want to replace the axle, move the rears out to the 40 and get the seat down to the minimum height.
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L Curt Hodges
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LHoernke
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« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2013, 01:58:04 PM »

I agree. I'm not hacking my front end up to add 2 inches. If I was building a new machine with a new axle that would be a different story. The seat height, ya, I'm hacking my fender up for that. Just my opinion.
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Lee Hoernke #84
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« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2013, 01:58:04 PM »

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royalblu68f100
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« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2013, 02:03:25 PM »

Why not run wider front wheels with the same backspacing?  It does the same thing.
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GunSlinginJoe13
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« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2013, 02:28:25 PM »

My opinion im not cutting off my front axle.  My mower look good like that.  With a extra inch hanging out I think my mowers look unpreportsion.   
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« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2013, 03:16:07 PM »

If you don't move the fronts out with the rear you will be loooose!
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Jeff Digou (Pitguy)
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« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2013, 03:31:12 PM »

I was tight just moving my rears out.  bash
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« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2013, 04:13:40 PM »

I agree. I'm not hacking my front end up to add 2 inches. If I was building a new machine with a new axle that would be a different story. The seat height, ya, I'm hacking my fender up for that. Just my opinion.
Remember you do not just hack the fenders and lower the seat in.. you must mold the seat pan back into the lower position.
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ccreech5464
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« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2013, 05:13:32 PM »

Still trying to figure out how to get the lower seat hight anyone have any suggestions or even pics of how they are doing it ?
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« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2013, 05:47:41 PM »

The heims on my front end were adjusted all the way in so i should be able to adjust them out to gain that inch on each side without messing up my front end geometry (or at least get close).  just need to make new tie rods after i do that
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The Tank
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« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2013, 05:55:36 PM »

I would borrow a bolt stretcher to use on the heims.
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« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2013, 06:05:05 PM »

I would borrow a bolt stretcher to use on the heims.
use the "gold" series or it won't work....
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Jim Knutson
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LHoernke
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« Reply #12 on: December 03, 2013, 07:22:53 PM »

Remember you do not just hack the fenders and lower the seat in.. you must mold the seat pan back into the lower position.

The rule book says protective trimming. Could we get clearer pictures of this. A clear picture of this done on a mtd tunnel chassis with the big one piece fender would help. A little clarity please?
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Lee Hoernke #84
Jeff Digou (Pitguy)
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« Reply #13 on: December 03, 2013, 07:27:37 PM »

The rules book shows MTD fenders.  

http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=17805.0
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Jeff Digou
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« Reply #14 on: December 05, 2013, 08:04:49 PM »

use the "gold" series or it won't work....

Well I was hopeing to save a few pennies by renting the tool from Auto Zone while i was there getting new spark plugs for my Cummins... but they only had the "heavy duty" series.  Ill have to keep searching  lol
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Nick Lema
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