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Author Topic: New Guy All-In and Ready to Race IMOW- Needs Help  (Read 2563 times)
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Aircamperace
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« on: September 21, 2013, 05:58:24 PM »

Hey Guys and Gals I need your help. I've joined the USLMRA and local club, read the rule book, searched the forums and bought a mower. My plan is to get it running and race ready, legal, safe cost consciously.

Since there isn't an official getting started guide, I thought this would also be helpful to other new guys getting started and in the same boat.

My plan is two staged; do minimum required to get on the track, then make improvements down the road.It is as follows:

IMOW Stage 1

Kill switch
Helmet & neck support
Cut and weld deck halves
Automatic throttle closing device
Double throttle return springs
Move throttle to steering wheel
Remount seat
Brakes
Fab fixed front axle
Change steering linkages to ball typ
Clamp all fuel joints
Reroute exhaust rearward & down
3" Numbers, visible all 4 sides
Secure hood
Touch up paint

IMOW Stage 2

Strengthen frame
Lower mower 4" /2.5" per rule
Spindles
Front end parts
Steering ball eye links
Repaint


Please share your thoughts. Am I on the right track?

Aircamperace


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Wade1978
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« Reply #1 on: September 23, 2013, 12:20:18 AM »

that is a MTD chassis follow this build thread and you will build it once, build it right and be able to move up to faster classes with little more than an engine change later on
http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=1613.0
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Wade Chamblee #15C SS & SP
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Aircamperace
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« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2013, 04:58:19 PM »

that is a MTD chassis follow this build thread and you will build it once, build it right and be able to move up to faster classes with little more than an engine change later on
http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=1613.0

Thanks Wade. I did read through Georges build prior to posting. That looks like it's at the extreme end of a build and where I would like to eventually end up. Right now my goal is to do the minimum required to get on the track, then make improvements down the road.
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heymow.com - Lawn Mower Racing Forum
« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2013, 04:58:19 PM »

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birdman_express
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« Reply #3 on: September 23, 2013, 08:58:20 PM »

Thanks Wade. I did read through Georges build prior to posting. That looks like it's at the extreme end of a build and where I would like to eventually end up. Right now my goal is to do the minimum required to get on the track, then make improvements down the road.

It cost you twice as much to do it down the road..... seen it may times on here.
The newer racer says most of the time.... I wish I had done it differently the
first time. Here you are hearing to do it more right the first time, than just
getting on the track now. I know it is not what you want to hear, but that is
the truth.
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Wade1978
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« Reply #4 on: September 24, 2013, 01:24:40 AM »

It cost you twice as much to do it down the road..... seen it may times on here.
The newer racer says most of the time.... I wish I had done it differently the
first time. Here you are hearing to do it more right the first time, than just
getting on the track now. I know it is not what you want to hear, but that is
the truth.


I'll add some to that
Ambulance ride: *$600+
ER Visit and X-rays: *$1500+++
Fun day of racing on a SAFE properly built racing mower: PRICELESS
(and a whole lot less painful)
(* prices are ballpark and from about 10 years ago)
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Wade Chamblee #15C SS & SP
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BTMRA Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/BTMRA-Bama_Tenn-Mower-Racing-Assn/122035854484887
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« Reply #5 on: September 24, 2013, 05:13:30 AM »

Minimum possible then your in the wrong place and even the wrong sport.
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« Reply #6 on: September 24, 2013, 08:29:34 AM »

This is the cheapest form of motorsport that you can be involved in.  We used to do the "cheap" "builds", lowered stock spindles, stock steering, etc.  We broke so much stuff and had to replace so many things that it wound up being cheaper in the long run to build a real mower.  Don't get me wrong, I understand where you are coming from.  But trust me spend a little more time now and you will be miles ahead later.  A friend built a "cheap" build but was always running in the back due to bad handling; once he stiffened the chassis, and installed better spindles and steering he went to the front (this was on an Imow).  Right now is what many consider the off season, take a few months and get some stuff over the holidays and you will be ready for the first race of the 2014 season.
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You never win a race by focusing on one aspect of the race!  Motor isn't everything, but you better have a good one!  Chassis too!  But remember, a driver can take a slow machine and make it faster!  I may not have/be the best of any of these but I'm trying!
Chris Cox- CP/Mod X, AP
2013 USLMRA AP Champion
2012 SRUSAAO ModX/CP Champion
2012 USLMRA CP Champion
2012 US Open AP Champion
2011 SRUSAAO MOD-X/CP Champion
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2011 GALMRA CP Points Champion
2013 New AP, FXS???
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« Reply #7 on: September 24, 2013, 08:27:39 PM »

Minimum possible then your in the wrong place and even the wrong sport.

I think you may be taking that out of context.

What I initially said was " My plan is get it running and race ready, legal, safe cost consciously."

Is the stock 820 transmission is unsafe, do I need a 700 with EC rear axle, EC clutch and EC front end etc... to be safe?

Can I do everything but the transmission and axle and save that for a later time and still be safe?

I want to do it right the first time, just not all at once, if I don't have to.

BTW, Your build blog is great, thank you for sharing.
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LOUIS CATES
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« Reply #8 on: September 24, 2013, 09:35:55 PM »

I am a budget builder myself and make what I can, buy what I can't. At a national level you wont be competitive. You should however at least build to the level of your local competition . These frames are too flexible for racing so you have to strengthen them first. That means you should decide which running gear you wll use up front because it is a considerable amount of work to change later.  Also you want to get rid of the stock steering gear its junk, go direct. Even in a budget build there are some things that cannot be skipped if you want to actually Finnish a race with a mower in one piece. I found out the hard way like most of these guys. That's the point they are making.  Good luck and happy building.
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THANKS,  LOUIS
royalblu68f100
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« Reply #9 on: September 24, 2013, 09:45:04 PM »

The 820 can be competitive and safe if done correctly.  I myself ran one for years.  I would like to see you brace it, lower it, and improve the steering and brakes. Outside of these changes you can do anything to it later on down the road, even remove the 820 and install a 700 if you were to prefer.
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You never win a race by focusing on one aspect of the race!  Motor isn't everything, but you better have a good one!  Chassis too!  But remember, a driver can take a slow machine and make it faster!  I may not have/be the best of any of these but I'm trying!
Chris Cox- CP/Mod X, AP
2013 USLMRA AP Champion
2012 SRUSAAO ModX/CP Champion
2012 USLMRA CP Champion
2012 US Open AP Champion
2011 SRUSAAO MOD-X/CP Champion
2011 USLMRA FX Points Runner up
2011 GALMRA CP Points Champion
2013 New AP, FXS???
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« Reply #10 on: September 25, 2013, 08:17:28 AM »

Another thing too...go ahead and get you some racing wheels. Thet aren't expensive and are much stronger. I know I'm gonna get crucified for saying this because some guy somewhere is gonna say "well I've been running stock wheels for 17 years and they have always worked for me." I've seen stock wheels break 4 times on the track...3 times involving turn overs. And three of the four were "reinforced". So just get some to start out with and be on the safe side.
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royalblu68f100
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« Reply #11 on: September 25, 2013, 08:53:09 AM »

Another thing too...go ahead and get you some racing wheels. Thet aren't expensive and are much stronger. I know I'm gonna get crucified for saying this because some guy somewhere is gonna say "well I've been running stock wheels for 17 years and they have always worked for me." I've seen stock wheels break 4 times on the track...3 times involving turn overs. And three of the four were "reinforced". So just get some to start out with and be on the safe side.



What he said!!!
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You never win a race by focusing on one aspect of the race!  Motor isn't everything, but you better have a good one!  Chassis too!  But remember, a driver can take a slow machine and make it faster!  I may not have/be the best of any of these but I'm trying!
Chris Cox- CP/Mod X, AP
2013 USLMRA AP Champion
2012 SRUSAAO ModX/CP Champion
2012 USLMRA CP Champion
2012 US Open AP Champion
2011 SRUSAAO MOD-X/CP Champion
2011 USLMRA FX Points Runner up
2011 GALMRA CP Points Champion
2013 New AP, FXS???
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« Reply #12 on: September 25, 2013, 03:38:14 PM »



What he said!!!

AMEN!
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Aircamperace
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« Reply #13 on: September 29, 2013, 07:22:19 AM »

That's the kind of help I needed. I was mistaken about my transaxle though.  What I though was a peerless turned out to be a basic MTD with only reverse and fwd. The 7 forward speeds are a variable pulley doh. So after all It looks like I will need a 700 trans.

My question now is, what good are 700's 5 speeds if you can't shift it when moving and only race it 3rd gear? Different gears for different tracks?

If I only need 1 gear, couldn't I use MTD single speed transaxle to get a final ratio of 8:1?

I imagine there is a reason why racers aren't doing it, either the engine would have to turn way too slow or way to fast?

Ryan
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birdman_express
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« Reply #14 on: September 29, 2013, 07:26:35 AM »

That's the kind of help I needed. I was mistaken about my transaxle though.  What I though was a peerless turned out to be a basic MTD with only reverse and fwd. The 7 forward speeds are a variable pulley doh. So after all It looks like I will need a 700 trans.

My question now is, what good are 700's 5 speeds if you can't shift it when moving and only race it 3rd gear? Different gears for different tracks?

If I only need 1 gear, couldn't I use MTD single speed transaxle to get a final ratio of 8:1?

I imagine there is a reason why racers aren't doing it, either the engine would have to turn way too slow or way to fast?

Ryan

If you shift while racing, you will break transmissions. You gear for the straights, and put your motor RPM in the sweet spot.
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