Topic: Modified Craftsman build

[Rob Lalonde]

Hi,

I'll start off by giving you a quick overview of what i'm starting with, what ideas I have for the build, what class it will be raced in and hopefully I can get some advice from some of you experienced racers to get me going in the right mowrection!

So I just picked up Craftsman tractor that I will be racing in a modified class that uses the model 28 12 hp Briggs -Stratton flat head motor in basically stock form other than a .020' over piston, cleaning up the carb inlet/intake, increase jet size if we run methanol, after market air filter/exhaust and removing the governor mechanism is optional,  we must use a centrifugal clutch and drive belt. We can lower the chassis to a 2.5" min. ground clearance, 1.5" chassis offset, the usual front axle/steering/rear brake, frt/rear bumpers/side nerf bars upgrades.

Things I like to do(please advise me if I'm wrong)
-Flip the differential to lower the chassis and keep the frame, drive belt and engine level to the ground.
-Offset the chassis to the left 1.5"
-I would like to rotate the engine 90 deg counter clock wise(looking from the top) and possibly offset the engine to the left side. I've seen this done before in one of the build threads, I think that it would make sense to rotate the engine 90 deg counter clock wise to keep the oil from sloshing forward into the the bottom of the piston when braking and in left turns. Having the head hanging out the left side would move some weight from the front of the tractor and place it farther back and to the left(free ballast and better chassis weight balance) Again, I could be way off on this so chime in if that's the case!
-I'm undecided on whether to use a steering wheel mounted throttle lever/foot brake pedal setup or steering wheel with both foot brake and gas pedals or an ATV type handle bars with brake and gas hand levers. The racing series allows both types of steering setups.


The tractor came with a FOOTE 3865 differential, is this unit usable for racing or is it more useful as a boat anchor.

So here we go, I'll start of with a few "before' pics ...it's not purdy but the frame/body work is clean and solid, I kind of like the oldschool square look of the hood but we'll see maybe I'll go with one of the modern round hoods..... I will have many more question for you guys and gals so please be patient with me, I'm here to learn

[Mowerstompin]

First off, Welcome  


Centrifugal Clutch with a Transaxle? Interesting  . I'll let someone else advise you on that.

As far as governer, I'd leave it on until you can get a billet rod, billet flywheel, and a billet dog-bone from like EC Carburetors, ARC racing, or somewhere like that. You can hit the "Links" navigation thing at the top and find all kinds of great websites for parts and stuff.

I'd use the Foote for a boat anchor personally. It might would last a bit running say a stock class or something, but Peerless is the way to go, for build quality and reliability. Just race prep It (Removing Reverse chain, seals (unless it's like a 206 which I run, that has seals and uses gear oil from the factory), some good gear oil, and some other little things which you can find plenty of on the forums).

If you run a centrifugal clutch you can run the pedal on the floor, along with the brake. If you did go with a clutch (Though It don't look like your rules do), def use hand throttle.

Off set would be fine, since your rules allow it, and would actually be a good thing. We run flipped transaxles, a clutch and all that. Just don't think you could pull off a 2.5" clearance, I was only able to pull off a 3.8", or well I guess we'll just call it 4". I mean I'd imagine it's possible.

If you could, I'd consider running a live axle with a RAGB (Right angle gear box) with that centrifugal clutch, would be the best option.


Anyways, thats about all I can answer Still new myself. Get some of those more experienced guys to help more and throw up there good advice



Best of luck!
Cody.

[Rob Lalonde]

Thanks for the reply Cody,

I agree on leaving the governor while using the stock engine internals, at the very least I would use a flywheel scatter shield which I will likely do anyway. I wish that I could use a live kart style axle but our track rules requires the use of a tractor transaxle and centrifugal clutch/belt drive line so I'm on the hunt for a 820 Peerless to build up. The 2.5' ground clearance is just the track rule min spec dimension but as you mentioned, I will be around the 4'' mark at the bottom of the front axle.

I'd still like to get some of you guys thoughts on rotating the engine 90 deg counter clock wise

Thanks again for your input!

These are our track rules:
http://www.cornwallspeedway.com/tractorrules.pdf