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Author Topic: Rear Engine Deere AP  (Read 7444 times)
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DeereRacer
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« Reply #15 on: July 17, 2012, 09:52:53 PM »



Well I have decided to risk it an run the pulley on the end of the crank. The stock mower deck drive pulley hung about 4" off the end and that worked. Though that was a slightly lower rpm lol. I got the frame notched out for the axle today and mounted the rims and hubs to it to give me an idea how it is all going to lay out. I am defiantly going to have to modify the running boards for clearance when turning and I will not be able to lower the steering column at all. I need the height for my knees.
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"There are three easy ways of losing money - racing is the quickest, women the most pleasant, and farming the most certain."

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« Reply #16 on: July 18, 2012, 12:22:55 PM »

I ran my Modx with the pulley almost at the end of the crank on my Tecumseh all last season. No troubles to speak of and motor is back together now still turning 6000 or so.
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« Reply #17 on: July 18, 2012, 10:52:47 PM »

John Vinka or Chuk Miller might be able to give you some tips on a rear engine rider.  They we're about the only 2 people that I remember having much sucess with that platform.  Vinka ran a ariens and not sure what the boggie woogie that chuck ran started out as
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« Reply #17 on: July 18, 2012, 10:52:47 PM »

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« Reply #18 on: July 19, 2012, 11:29:21 AM »

Chucks was set up for a GX390 so it is all horizontal. Vinka has an 820 under his, but if memory serves right it is up in the air a little ways, but he makes it fly!
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« Reply #19 on: November 24, 2012, 04:07:21 PM »

Now the farm field work is coming to an end for the season I can now start to put some thought into my rear engine racer again. I am thinking about doing an aluminum sub-frame. My plan is to run either aluminum channel or angle from axle to on the inside of the frame with an aluminum trans plate attached to the the top of that, angle aluminum seat frame and a square tube double X-brace from the front axle to the seat frame. You can get a rough idea what I am talking about in the picture.

Has anybody ever attempted aluminum bracing before? My one concern is that the welds will crack in the beating it will get on the rougher tracks.
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« Reply #20 on: November 24, 2012, 05:03:54 PM »

Depends how thick the aluminum is. The fenders our our semis crack a couple times a year. Granted they're only 1/8"
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« Reply #21 on: November 24, 2012, 09:59:55 PM »

I have 2"x2" aluminum angle that I have used to reinforce the frame on my mod-x-r and it works great it is approx. 3/8" thick. I have it welded but it is also bolted to the main pan frame. It is very stiff and is light weight. Here is a couple of pictures. The first one is of the frame and the second is of the dash support.


Hope this helps.
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« Reply #22 on: November 24, 2012, 10:11:50 PM »

I made Scotts rear engine rider with big tires for back and small in front all it did was wheelies. It was also very sketchy going around the corners cause it keeped leaning and stuff. It had 10.5 brigs flathead in it. With i think 8inch on engine and 2inch pully on tranny. It has a mtd junky tranny but some how from all wheelies we did stuff it still runs like a champ. We keeped the pullys in the same spot though and how belt was set up to. Only thing ill be worried about that rear engine racer is my you know what hitting the steering support or me flipping off the back hitting a bump or something. Even though i built mini and it dose wheelies, I feel much safer on it then the rear engine rider even though they look fast when they race like england and stuff.
Just what ever you do dont try driving up the back of the truck on ramps with it. My freind learn then hard way lol it was really funny cause he asked me to help as he got stuck at top of it and slowly falling on him, as i was laughing so hard. It flipt on top of him and he learn why not to do it quick lol.
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« Reply #23 on: November 24, 2012, 10:41:48 PM »

Hey looks like you have an interesting project on your hands....  i have a few questions about it.  You are running 13's on the back instead of 16?  Also what engine are you planning on using?  Also i used to have an s82 that looked very similar to yours except the rear hada "hood" over the engine and tires.  Your looks diffferent in that area.  There is no rear "hood"over for yours?
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« Reply #24 on: November 24, 2012, 10:57:29 PM »

Just make sure your seat is well strengthed because mine broke its mount and hit the fly wheel shroud and poted the dip stick off alot and oil sprays all over lol.
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« Reply #25 on: November 26, 2012, 09:44:03 AM »

Hey looks like you have an interesting project on your hands....  i have a few questions about it.  You are running 13's on the back instead of 16?  Also what engine are you planning on using?  Also i used to have an s82 that looked very similar to yours except the rear hada "hood" over the engine and tires.  Your looks diffferent in that area.  There is no rear "hood"over for yours?
A Friend of mine is also building a S82 http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=20668.0 . They look similar but I think the only part they share is the steering column support. As for the rear tires yes they are 13"  they are also only 5" wide wanted to make sure I would not have wheelie problems like Darkviper mentioned. I figure If I don't have enough traction I can always step up to the 6.50" wide tires. As for the the hood the model 65 and the older 55 never had them. Interesting thing about the 55 is it had handlebars and rear bumper otherwise nearly identical on the outside.

I have 2"x2" aluminum angle that I have used to reinforce the frame on my mod-x-r and it works great it is approx. 3/8" thick. I have it welded but it is also bolted to the main pan frame. It is very stiff and is light weight. Here is a couple of pictures. The first one is of the frame and the second is of the dash support.
I was thinking using 1.5"x1.5" aluminum angle 1/4" thick. Maybe that will not be enough.
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"There are three easy ways of losing money - racing is the quickest, women the most pleasant, and farming the most certain."

Well I got two of the three covered.
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« Reply #26 on: November 26, 2012, 10:26:36 AM »

I actually have a  john deere r72 that I was planning on turning into a a/p racer.  My frame is a wedge like the front is 12" wide the rear is 15" those aren't the really measurement just a example.  It's weird never seen one like it.  It just more  bash
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« Reply #27 on: November 26, 2012, 10:33:13 AM »

Queston is where would u race them besides Uslmr?
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« Reply #28 on: November 26, 2012, 11:30:10 AM »

The US Open series, or locally. Maybe with ModX if you had to.
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You never win a race by focusing on one aspect of the race!  Motor isn't everything, but you better have a good one!  Chassis too!  But remember, a driver can take a slow machine and make it faster!  I may not have/be the best of any of these but I'm trying!
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« Reply #29 on: November 26, 2012, 07:38:30 PM »

A Friend of mine is also building a S82 http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=20668.0 . They look similar but I think the only part they share is the steering column support. As for the rear tires yes they are 13"  they are also only 5" wide wanted to make sure I would not have wheelie problems like Darkviper mentioned. I figure If I don't have enough traction I can always step up to the 6.50" wide tires. As for the the hood the model 65 and the older 55 never had them. Interesting thing about the 55 is it had handlebars and rear bumper otherwise nearly identical on the outside.
I was thinking using 1.5"x1.5" aluminum angle 1/4" thick. Maybe that will not be enough.
It may be enough I just happen to get a great deal on the aluminum I used. It is stiff and it hasnt cracked yet.
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Keith
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