Topic: broken bolt removal

[TeamScoot]

The passenger side manifold on my 87 ford ranger broke yesterday, and while trying to remove it, a bolt broke off in the block, anyone have any good tips on how to get it out short of pulling the motor out? i dont know if its possible without pulling the motor tho, its in a pretty tight place and i dont really think i can get a drill in there.

[Burwell555]

Use a 90 degree adapter or get an air drill. Their quite compact. Drill the center of the bolt, and use an easy out. You might have to heat the bolt and hole first after drilling but before using the easy out

[redline]

Take a 1/2" or larger nut, maybe even a 5/8" one if you have it. Center it over the broken bolt/hole, and weld it to the broken bolt through the inside of the nut. I do this all the time on the gen III GM engines that like to break manifold bolts, and of course it's always at the #7 cylinder, where you could not drill if you wanted too. Let it cool until the nut you welded on is no longer red, and then slowly try to turn it out. You may need to weld to it a few times before you get it to stick. If the broken bolt is recessed, weld that up first, so that it slightly extends beyond the hole. Obviously you need a wire feed to do this.

[trbinrat]

I second what redline said

[TeamScoot]

thats the direction i was leaning towards. ill giver a shot in the morning. thanks for the tip

[cycloneracer]

Take a 1/2" or larger nut, maybe even a 5/8" one if you have it. Center it over the broken bolt/hole, and weld it to the broken bolt through the inside of the nut. I do this all the time on the gen III GM engines that like to break manifold bolts, and of course it's always at the #7 cylinder, where you could not drill if you wanted too. Let it cool until the nut you welded on is no longer red, and then slowly try to turn it out. You may need to weld to it a few times before you get it to stick. If the broken bolt is recessed, weld that up first, so that it slightly extends beyond the hole. Obviously you need a wire feed to do this.

We do this all the time when we break something off on our machinery.  Works so well we have quit the drilling and using an easy out.  Just be paitinet as you may need to weld it a few times before it comes out.

Paul

[George Herrin]

Take a 1/2" or larger nut, maybe even a 5/8" one if you have it. Center it over the broken bolt/hole, and weld it to the broken bolt through the inside of the nut. I do this all the time on the gen III GM engines that like to break manifold bolts, and of course it's always at the #7 cylinder, where you could not drill if you wanted too. Let it cool until the nut you welded on is no longer red, and then slowly try to turn it out. You may need to weld to it a few times before you get it to stick. If the broken bolt is recessed, weld that up first, so that it slightly extends beyond the hole. Obviously you need a wire feed to do this.

ditto

[TomL]

Weld a washer to the broken stud/bolt then weld the nut to the washer.

Way easier to weld and much stronger.

Tom

[Jay19LM]

Your local muffler shop could probably remove it. They deal with that problem. A friend of mine owned a muffler shop and he showed me how they do it. If its a cast iron head, you heat the bolt up and blow it out with a oxy/actelyene torch. He made it look easy. I never tried it though   

[TeamScoot]

take it to a muffler shop... HA.

all 6 bolts broke off. I ended up making an alignment plate out of half inch steel and bolting it to the head using some other tapped holes on the top of it. started with 1/8 inch and moved up to 5/16, and then tapped em all 3/8, modifying the drill jig each time to ensure straightness. worked perfect.

thanks all for the suggestions, there was no way these were coming out with just welding a nut on tho.