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Author Topic: K341 Pulling Build  (Read 32842 times)
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Squidd
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« Reply #225 on: August 24, 2011, 07:24:14 PM »

I am having a bad day here...Started out getting motor tuned, was turning 8500 easy,

Then all of a sudden started blowing smoke out the breather and slowing down....reved to 7900 then only 7200 and i shut it down..

Drained oil (new from yesterday) and it was black with a gray shine to it...noplease

Pulled the pan and found I spun a bearing...oil dipper which is supposed to lock it in had turned itself out and bearing spun in rod end...

Going to rush order some new bearings, and polish out the crank is ther anything else I should be on the look out for..?

I know I torqued it correctly, bolts were still tight when I took it apart...
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Randy Stys
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« Reply #226 on: August 24, 2011, 07:27:03 PM »

Well....I don't feel so bad about my day now...if that helps any?
I was feeling bad, then Larry told me he blew the supermod up, and now you....
http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=16128.660

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« Reply #227 on: August 24, 2011, 08:06:08 PM »

Locktight the dipper in. Always. Make sure you have good fit in the big end so the bearing stays put. You might have to run a little extra oil in it cause of the rake. If its full when level it could lose some oil off the dipper. When you ad oil do it with the cam cover off and fill it until the bottom of the rod just above the dipper is in the oil. You want maybe 1/8 of the rod cap in oil when rod is down and engine is at rest. 
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #227 on: August 24, 2011, 08:06:08 PM »

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Squidd
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« Reply #228 on: August 25, 2011, 04:28:06 PM »

Crank cleaned up nice..in spec for std bearing..

Rod end looks a little ruff, may need to glue the race in or possible shim to keep it in place..

Either way I'll set it up with plasti-gage...I assume I'm looking fort .003" to .005" clearance on the rod to crank..?
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Randy Stys
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« Reply #229 on: August 25, 2011, 04:39:10 PM »

At least 3-5 and prolly more toward 5. You could have the big end resized if needed. 
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #230 on: August 26, 2011, 10:25:48 AM »

I got .006" and am going with it...

Assuming it runs and doesn't melt down during tune in, Will make the run this weekend and then pull it down and check for wear..
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« Reply #231 on: August 26, 2011, 11:05:30 AM »

Double check that oil level with it together. I'm curious if the rod was actually in the oil when its at the bottom of its stroke.
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #232 on: August 26, 2011, 12:07:52 PM »

I physiclly looked at the level when on an angle...couldn't get a picture, but dipper was submerged and 1/8" to 1/4" of the lower side of the rod cap was also touching the oil. But on the stick I am a little higher than I usually ran, so maybe that was part of the problem.?

I did clean crap from the oil holes in the rod when assembling , but that probably came during the meltdown..
Right now it runs, is tuned in and ready to pull...gonna charge the battery and put it in the trailer before something bad happens...
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Randy Stys
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« Reply #233 on: August 26, 2011, 12:53:24 PM »

It'll rock and roll now randy have faith. The oil level thing could be the culprit.
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #234 on: August 30, 2011, 08:33:48 AM »

Bearing lock!! Some rods come with it, others you have to ask for it. The tangs on the bearings no longer keep them from spinning.
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #235 on: August 30, 2011, 08:45:13 AM »

Yeah, the dipper spun itself partially out and lost the lock..

I lock tighted it in and seemed to hold during last pull ( oil stayed clean)
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« Reply #236 on: August 30, 2011, 08:51:52 AM »

Id keep an eye on the dipper. We had one spin out last year and we loc tired it in and came out again so we got a whole new rod.
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« Reply #237 on: August 30, 2011, 09:11:36 AM »

If the rod has the correct bearing "squish" the bearing should not move when combined with the dipper lock. The bearing does have an actual od size dimension that is required to hold it in place to keep it from turning on a psi lube system. I often wonder what makes it different on the kseries splash lube versus any kart engine with An aftermarket rod. They don't have locks. Just use the tangs on the bearings and they stay put. I have bought new billet rods regardless from who that needed the big end resized for the proper bearing od dimension. A machine shop can do it for you. When I have a crank checked for oil clearance and what not it is part of the job. They check crank dimensions, rod dimensions, bearing fit and when all that is done the last thing to check is oil clearance on the big end with the bearing installed and cap torqued.
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« Reply #238 on: September 05, 2011, 06:30:57 PM »

Pulled the pan to check the bearing, glad I did the dipper had worked itself out again...

Bearings were wearing in well so I left them and put a helicoil in the dipper hole and lock tighted it all together again...

Should hold this time I could really feel it tighten in..
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Randy Stys
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« Reply #239 on: December 10, 2011, 10:59:45 AM »

Any new upgrades for your motor this winter?
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