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Author Topic: K341 Pulling Build  (Read 33990 times)
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Squidd
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« on: September 22, 2010, 12:05:32 PM »

On my Briggs, other than Head Gasket and crank seals, I pretty much put it together with RTV sealant rather than Gasket set.

Can I do the same for my K341 being built for pulling...?
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Randy Stys
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« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2010, 01:09:19 PM »

I always use a pan gasket when I assemble the unit together to make sure that it seals when under stress and strain, and always use the bearing plate gaskets to set the crank end play!!! The crank vent plate that goes over the valve box, if you are using the Kohler pieces then you will use two gaskets there as well as silicone or it will leak like crazy. I generally replace those pieces with solid aluminum ones.  The cam gear cover and fuel pump hole I use silicone to seat those up, the only thing left is the intake gasket. I have not used one of those in years, just a thin film of silicone and nothing else on that surface. Make sure the intake flange is flat!! otherwise you may be investing in a new carb. or have trouble with your intake manifold sealing up correctly! Some guys still use an intake gasket, but I gave up on those many years ago.
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2010, 09:43:12 AM »

What about ring Gap...?

On a Briggs I would go tight on gap maybe .003" to .005"

Would it be the same on a cast iron puller...?
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Randy Stys
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« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2010, 09:43:12 AM »

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FlatheadPuller
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« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2010, 11:22:19 AM »

I would go a little looser. .008-.010. Remember theres no cooling system. It will get hot. But IF you want to know a trick on the midwest flywheels you can install a stock briggs model 28 plastic fan set on the flywheel using the two 3/8 flywheel puller holes and it will drop right in a cub chassis even with the aftermarket driver. Then you do not need a electric fan and the plastic fins wont come apart.

You can also use a total seal gapless top ring and stock second ring. The engine will last a realy long time with that setup.
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2010, 05:33:58 AM »

Rule of thumb for the Kohler type pulling engines as told to me by a very good source is 0.004" per every inch of bore for the "gapless" rings. (overlap gap). You do not want to set the rings too tight!! I would set them this way then forget about it until the next year!!
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #5 on: November 02, 2010, 04:41:34 PM »

Got my head in finally, been bidding on e-bay for weeks and hadn't seen one go for less than $75... at which point a guy could go billet... but was able to score at $32...

Now, how much can I shave off of it...? I've heard .050" and .060" as well as .100"

Or should I build the motor first and do a clay squish test, account for valve clearance and cut the rest off..?

Also, I was looking the block over, this one was ported before I got it, the intake looks nice and smooth and rounded over, but the opening is 1 3/8"
   


My carb is 1.2"--- is the port too big...? should I sleeve it down to 1 1/4"

What does the stock opening start at an intake port of a K341 ?
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Randy Stys
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« Reply #6 on: November 02, 2010, 07:24:13 PM »

The stock port I.D. Is usually 1.250. I wouldn't go anymore with it. I would run it as is or if you wish get some ab epoxy and smooth it back down to 1.250. The cylinder you can clay above the valves and see what you have. Leave .075 above the valve and mill the rest off the gasket flange. Ends up being around .050 or so.
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #7 on: November 03, 2010, 05:35:34 AM »

If you are wanting to get as much as you can out of this motor then build a head for it. The Kohler heads have too large of a combustion chamber for what you need. You can shave it all you want and it won't change that. I would leave the port alone for now, the carb. will be the main restriction with the 1.200" carb. s/u. There are 2 or 3 different port size that were cast into the K341 block. Even with the large Kohler port for a 1.200" carb. I would leave the bottom end alone other than smoothing, but shape the top then blend the sides to it, and make a manifold to match the port and the carb.
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #8 on: November 03, 2010, 07:26:48 AM »

I have the capabilty of getting this head/combustion chamber welded up...is that the direction I should go...?

Or are you saying I would be better off starting with a billet head and opening the ramps myself...?

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Randy Stys
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« Reply #9 on: November 03, 2010, 08:42:06 AM »

Unless your rules dictate using a factory or look a like head I would use a billet head. Less time involved in making one from billet than welding up a Kohler head then hoping it does not fail. Plus you can put the plug where you want it/need it.
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #10 on: November 03, 2010, 08:53:24 AM »

Billet head is allowed,

Where do I want the plug...? centered between valves  like on the LP heads ?

At this point I still have a few "essentials" to purchase just to get "on" to the track.. once I get up and running I'm sure I'll want to start second level "upgrades" and billet head would probably be right up there with long rod/short slug conversion to take advantage of the compression...

 
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Randy Stys
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« Reply #11 on: November 03, 2010, 11:13:23 AM »

I assume I will need an electric fuel pump, low pressure...

Are either of these a good choice...?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/low-pressure-fuel-pump-marine-gas-diesel-UNIVERSAL-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aa5df4c2cQQitemZ320610454572QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

3#-5#

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Low-Pressure-Electric-Fuel-Pump-gas-diesel-1-5-4-5-psi-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3361a966f7QQitemZ220681823991QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

1.5#-4.5#
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Randy Stys
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« Reply #12 on: November 03, 2010, 11:16:21 AM »

Usually I put the plug in the center of the three circles (the valves and the piston). Trust me, once you build a head from billet you will never want to weld up a Kohler head and mess with that again!
Are you using racing gas or methanol?
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #13 on: November 03, 2010, 11:35:10 AM »

Gopher state is gas only and Wisconsin is Gas or Meth...but then NQS is meth only

I was planning on race gas, mostly because I am not familier with meth and all it's nuances..
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Randy Stys
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« Reply #14 on: November 03, 2010, 11:44:50 AM »

so squid thats what you call my home land lol, if your running in cheese land let me know if your gonna use meth i know a good place to get it, my quad runs meth
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Ricky Pitts
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