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Author Topic: George's NEW BUILD for 07  (Read 152051 times)
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George Herrin
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« on: October 21, 2006, 09:52:47 AM »

Well guys I am in the process of building a new chassis for 07. It will be a chassis legal for several organizations. Will be 4 inches of the ground front and rear and will be a MTD chassis. I started this morning tore it down and welded the rear bearing cassette mounts on. I will do a step by step pictured build. AND this build will be available od CD once I am finished for those interested. So here we go. This is what I started with. I am on dail up at home so keep in mind how much time this is gonna take to upload and transfer pics.  !

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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
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www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
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My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
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« Reply #1 on: October 21, 2006, 09:55:30 AM »

Nice! Looking forward to the build Cool
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Guilford, Ct

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George Herrin
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« Reply #2 on: October 21, 2006, 09:58:56 AM »

Here is the tore down chassis main parts.  These are the main parts I start with. two side panels, the front sub frame, and rear panel plate, and running boards.

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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
heymow.com - Lawn Mower Racing Forum
« Reply #2 on: October 21, 2006, 09:58:56 AM »

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George Herrin
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« Reply #3 on: October 21, 2006, 10:13:50 AM »

OK with the chassis apart I mount the rear bearing cassettes before I do anything else why you ask. Because its just what I do. No paticular reason other than the parts are easier to handle while apart. It is very important to mount the holders so when everything is assembled it is in direct line with original transaxle. US says you can move the axle up but not forward or rearward. So this is waht we do to lower the chassis.










You want to make sure that both sides are the same in the case of this chassis I measured from the front of the frame side panel to the front edge of the cassette holder, (28-7/8 ) and from the top of the side panel to the top of the holder (2-1/4) and be sure you have it square to the frame. All these measurements are decided using the shortest tire I run. And if using adjustable cassettes you will generally have as much as 3/8 up and down adjustability in your ride hieght.
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
George Herrin
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« Reply #4 on: October 21, 2006, 10:54:42 AM »

OK now that they are placed I will weld them into place. I use a century gass-less welder. It goes both ways but just use it gas less. It welds Through most paints on most chassis's if it has a clean starting spot then take your time and let the heat and flux do its job. I do however clean most of the surfaces before I start so to make it easier. Flux core is forgiving but the biggest draw back is the mess it leaves when done. Most of the time a good wire brush will clean it all up. Here is a picture of my welder and the welded cassettes









Thats all for now back off to the shop to do some more work. I only came in this morning for breakfast and have a banquet to attend this evening so I want to get some more work done before I go. Will do most of my picture posting at night from here on out.
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
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« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2006, 07:50:55 PM »

Quote from: "George Herrin"
. It will be a chassis legal for several organizations. Will be 4 inches of the ground front and rear and will be a MTD chassis.



Seeing's how you have it at 4" with your shortest tire (per US rules), what other things are you incorporating to make it legal for other organizations?
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George Herrin
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« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2006, 09:27:06 PM »

Right off the bat it will be uslmra and arma legal. I won't add the back bumper as arma allows, It will be able to be widened with just the movement of collars and spacers. And with the adjustable cassettes I can go lower or higher. Just to name a few things.
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
George Herrin
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« Reply #7 on: October 22, 2006, 06:51:14 PM »


Ok here you see some points you must cut or grind away. The guides so that you can get a bigger pulley on there for speed, The other points you will see why in pics to come


This is to show you how and where I cut the guides off at


This is the very frontof the sub frame. You cut the lower lip off square with the rest of the chassis. This is a legal cut in US.


Here you see where I have cleaned the inside croners of the front sub frame for welding which again you will see why in pics to come.


This is the rear frame panel and again you see I have cleaned for welding
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
IBuiltmine-o1oo
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« Reply #8 on: October 23, 2006, 10:31:57 AM »

awsome thread George! Thanks a lot!
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Oh come on man. You got no lady fingers, fuzz buttles, snicker bombs, church burners, finger blasters, gut busters, zippity do das, or crap flappers?
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« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2006, 11:53:02 AM »

SAAAWET!!!
Gettin' all excited reading this....


BTW George,

Why are you an "MTD man"??
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George Herrin
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« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2006, 12:31:10 PM »

Worked for a MTD dealer fgor many years and easy to work on I know them inside and out, and they are plentiful, AND I have had nothing but success using them and last but not least I am the most comfortable on them.
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
creechfan
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« Reply #11 on: October 24, 2006, 02:03:20 PM »

Makes since!



Wait a second…..


Doesn’t MTD own about 99% of the brands seen on this forum?
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George Herrin
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« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2006, 02:17:55 PM »

Yea nowa days MTD owns many many brands. Ands have over the years too.
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
George Herrin
aka SUPERMAN
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I am going to Race Every Race like its my last one


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« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2006, 10:19:13 PM »



Ok here I am assembling the two side panel frames to the front sub frame. I use a straight edge to get it all straight.



here I use a dail caliper to make sure it is all straight. This is important. Once I am happy I tighten all the bolts tight.



I angle cut each end so it fits snug end to end.



Then I lay my frame rails in this is how I discretly stiffen my chassis. Then I clamp them in sevral locations from both directions using c-clamps up and down to make sure they are tightly in the frame. Now before welding and using the calipers same as in above picture I want to make sure they are straight on the rear section before I weld them in. The next photos will show the welded in rails.
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
George Herrin
aka SUPERMAN
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« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2006, 11:42:52 PM »



As you can see the rails are welded in. See how I don't do a solid weld end to end. Not needed, and the extra heat would warp the chassis.



Now this is inside the side frame panels. I use the same tubing to stiffen the box or tunnel of the frame. Makes for a solid chassis and it isn't add much extra weight either.



Ok here you see where the E.C. Distributing tranny plate buts right up against the front sub frame. ALSO it goes in the tunnel and sets on top of the frame rail supports. You can bolt or weld it in I choose to weld it then it becomes a part of the frame and helps stiffen it.

 

Here you see that I have mounted a tranny lower case. Then you slip the plate bushing into the the hole which self aligns on the input shaft.



As you can see it aligns perfectly. Now tack it in place and then remove the tranny case wnd weld it completely in.



Here it is welded completely in place. This bushing supports the weakest link (the input shaft) of the 700 tranny and with this setup if you break the input shaft it is due to case fatigue or worn or bad bearings.
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
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