heymow.com - Lawn Mower Racing Forum
October 23, 2014, 04:21:12 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News:
Want to Join our site? CLICK HERE
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Staff List Links Login Register  
Pages: 1 2 [3]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Peerless 820 Transaxle & 017 Kit  (Read 38305 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
RoMow
Turf Warrior
**

Karma: 13
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 437


View Profile
« Reply #30 on: January 12, 2013, 11:17:10 AM »

LUBRICATION Addendum

     To condense thread http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=23743.0 , the recommended lube for an 820 racing transaxle is 32-36 oz. of Peerless Bentonite (P/N 788067C) plus 8 oz. of either Lucas Oil Treatment or STP.


 

FLIPPING A TRANSAXLE Addendum

You can modify many 820s into an 017.  

   The "out the bottom" (now "top" on a flipped transaxle) shift-rod-&-fork for the 820-017, P/N 784359, is still available.  You'll need machining capabilities to drill and ream the bottom case (now the top) for the shift shaft and P/N 788072 seal.

   Or...once you get the case drilled and reamed for the 017 shift-rod-&-fork, if you want to go the heavy-duty route, you can add a short support tower for reinforcement -- cutting one off another 820 case and welding or JB Welding it to your new 017 "top" case would work. You could then ream the top of the tower for the seal.

   Keep in mind that the 017 shift-rod-&-fork uses the large-diameter shift-key collar, so you'll need one of the following 820s that use the large-diameter shift shaft for the 017 shift-rod-&-fork to work: 001B, 002C, 005B, 07B, 008B, 009B, 011B, 015B, 016D, 018A, 021A, 022A, 024A, 025A, 027A, 028A, 029, 030, 032, 034, 035, 036, 037, 039, 040 or 041.  If you have a different 820 than the ones listed, you can always install a large-diameter Shifter/Brake Shaft -- P/N 776385 for right-side brake or 776386 for left brake.  The large-diameter shift collar is P/N 784352.  Shift keys are P/N 792180A.

   You'll also need a 1/2"-diameter cup-style welch plug to close off the original shift-shaft hole that's now on the "bottom" of the transaxle -- the pulley side.  The Peerless plug, P/N 792140, has been obsolete for years.  An auto parts store or plumbing supply would be likely sources.

   And...since your pulley is now on the bottom, I would highly recommend a two-setscrew-hub pulley to aid the input-shaft snap ring in preventing pulley fall-off.

Sincerely; Rodney Rom
Logged

"No matter how many material possessions or awards you may acquire in your lifetime, the only thing you will ever truly own is your reputation." (Age 66)
RoMow
Turf Warrior
**

Karma: 13
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 437


View Profile
« Reply #31 on: July 22, 2013, 11:18:58 AM »

Additional FLIPPING A TRANSAXLE Information:

   I received this email recently from someone who bought a Gearset Upgrade 2 from me:
   “I have a question I hope you can help me with.  I received the gearset and am currently installing the gears. I am inverting the transaxle (flipping it upside down) to lower my center of gravity. My question is will the input shaft seal retain the Bentonite grease in the transmission or will I have to use something less flowable to maintain the lubrication in the gearbox? I have read different material that says Bentonite grease should not be allowed to get to any of the needle bearings.  If that is true, then I also have concerns about the input shaft thrust bearing and input shaft needle bearings below the seal in question.  Your advice would be greatly appreciated.”

   To which I responded:

   Leakage Prevention: 
1.  Remove the input shaft.
2.  Unless you are already replacing it, carefully remove the outer ball bearing.
3.  Remove the inner lip-style grease seal; discard it (you will be installing a new one).
4.  Lightly coat the large outer I.D. of the input-shaft bearing tower with "Anaerobic Gasket Maker Compound" (I use Permatex brand from my local NAPA store).  Do the same with the O.D. of the ball bearing.
5.  Press the ball bearing back into the tower until it seats against the inner shoulder.
6.  Using a Q-Tip® or similar cotton swab, wipe off the excess Anaerobic compound from inside the bearing tower.
7.  Pack the input-shaft needle bearing and bearing cavity with Mobil Unirex grease.
8.  Install the new inner seal with the lip facing the inside of the transaxle instead of the input-shaft needle bearing.  This, plus the completely-packed needle-bearing and cavity, will help prevent leakage.
9.  Install the input shaft from the outside!  Installing it from the inside will destroy the seal lip.
10.  As you install the input shaft, lightly coat the part that will contact the ball-bearing inner race with the Anaerobic Compound so it seals the shaft against the bearing inner race.  Do not use any Anaerobic Compound on the ball-bearing inner race prior to installing the input shaft or it will contaminate the needle-bearing grease.
   
   Input Shaft Thrust Bearing
Peerless originally recommended not allowing Bentonite to get into the needle bearings because Bentonite is a clay-based grease that, if it aged and/or dried out, the clay would ruin the bearings.  Adding some Lucas Gear Oil Additive to the Bentonite helps prevent this, but if you pack the input-bevel thrust bearing, races, and cavity inside the large O-ring with the Mobil Unirex grease, you won't have any thrust-bearing lubrication problem.
   If you want additional leakage protection, you can apply a thin coating of RTV (the same RTV you will use to seal the case seam) to the outside faces of the large flat washer and the large cup washer that contain the bevel-gear thrust bearing assembly. These will help further seal the washers to the case and the bevel gear.

   Final Gearset Upgrade 2 Installation NOTE:
When you get the Gearset Upgrade installed and the shafts in place, rotate the Shifter/Brake Shaft slowly and make sure the teeth of the new 25T gear do not rub against the rib casting on the inside of the case.  You may need to slightly trim the top edge of this rib at an angle for gear-tooth clearance.
 
Sincerely, Rodney
Logged

"No matter how many material possessions or awards you may acquire in your lifetime, the only thing you will ever truly own is your reputation." (Age 66)
RoMow
Turf Warrior
**

Karma: 13
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 437


View Profile
« Reply #32 on: November 05, 2013, 08:47:24 PM »

Additional Leakage Prevention for the Shift Shaft when Flipping an 820 Transaxle:

   I have been told you can use a large-diameter drill bit on a slow drill to slightly chamfer the inside edge of the shift-shaft hole in the cover, then install a small-section O-ring on the shift shaft fan.  When the cover (now the top on a flipped transaxle) is bolted down, the O-ring provides further leakage prevention for the transaxle lubricant.

Rodney Rom
Logged

"No matter how many material possessions or awards you may acquire in your lifetime, the only thing you will ever truly own is your reputation." (Age 66)
heymow.com - Lawn Mower Racing Forum
« Reply #32 on: November 05, 2013, 08:47:24 PM »

 Logged
flaco
Newbie
*

Karma: 1
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 23



View Profile
« Reply #33 on: November 23, 2013, 12:27:57 PM »

Additional Leakage Prevention for the Shift Shaft when Flipping an 820 Transaxle:

   I have been told you can use a large-diameter drill bit on a slow drill to slightly chamfer the inside edge of the shift-shaft hole in the cover, then install a small-section O-ring on the shift shaft fan.  When the cover (now the top on a flipped transaxle) is bolted down, the O-ring provides further leakage prevention for the transaxle lubricant.

Rodney Rom

this is an idea i like smile
Logged

it's time to change the air in my head
RoMow
Turf Warrior
**

Karma: 13
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 437


View Profile
« Reply #34 on: February 04, 2014, 03:44:02 PM »

RATIO Addendum II

   This is an add-on to Reply #12, as I have found information on more 820s.

   Only the reduction/overdrive part of the ratio is shown, but all ratios are ":1."

Model      1st       2nd     3rd     4th     5th     6th      Rev.      OEM
820-011   4.55     2.13    1.50     1.00   0.79    0.61     1.40
820-012*
820-013*
*These two transaxle Models were never produced for sale to any OEM or the public.       

Sincerely; Rodney  
Logged

"No matter how many material possessions or awards you may acquire in your lifetime, the only thing you will ever truly own is your reputation." (Age 66)
RoMow
Turf Warrior
**

Karma: 13
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 437


View Profile
« Reply #35 on: February 07, 2014, 08:02:07 PM »

'A'-Input vs 'B'-Input

   The normal positioning of an 820 transaxle in a front-engine rider or tractor is with the input shaft, brake, and shift arm ahead of the axle.  This is referred to as an 'A'-Input transaxle.

   If you have a unit with the transaxle mounted with the input shaft, brake, and shift arm behind the axle, you have a 'B'-Input transaxle.

   On 820s, changing from 'A'-Input to 'B'-Input or vice-versa requires changing the case cover (the input-shaft tower is in a different position -- close to the center bolt on 'A'-Inputs and closer to the outer edge on 'B'-inputs) as well as flipping the driven (large) countershaft bevel gear, and moving the countershaft thrust bearing to the opposite end of the shaft (outer end of the shaft for 'A'-Inputs and inner end of the shaft on 'B'-Inputs).

   Obviously, if you take a transaxle out of a unit that has 'A'-Input, then mount it in a unit that originally had a 'B'-Input transaxle, or vice-versa, you will have multiple Reverse speeds and one Forward speed.  So...the following list tells whether the 820 transaxle you are looking to remove from that Boneyard Special is an 'A'- or a 'B'-Input transaxle (provided the ID plate or label is still on it), to prevent your purchasing the wrong transaxle:
   'A'-Input transaxles:
820-001, 820-006, 820-009, 820-010, 820-011, 820-014, 820-016, 820-017, 820-018, 820-019, 820-021, 20-022, 820-023, 820-024, 820-025, 820-026, 820-027, 820-028, 820-029, 820-031, 820-033, 820-035, 820-036, 820-037, 820-038, 820-039, 820-040;
   'B'-Input transaxles:
820-002, 820-003, 820-004, 820-005, 820-007, 820-008, 820-015, 820-020, 820-030, 820-032, 820-034, & 820-041.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
Logged

"No matter how many material possessions or awards you may acquire in your lifetime, the only thing you will ever truly own is your reputation." (Age 66)
Jeff McKelroy #55A
Turf Warrior
**

Karma: 7
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 771


Two wrongs don't make a right, but four lefts...


jeffrey.mckelroy http://lnkd.in/sHn73U mechanicandlemaker
View Profile
« Reply #36 on: February 08, 2014, 06:36:43 PM »

That's good to know, thanks for the information!!
Logged

Jeff McKelroy
Tulsa, OK 74128


Super Bee II - G/P   #55A
Black Hornet - FX/S  #55A
RoMow
Turf Warrior
**

Karma: 13
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 437


View Profile
« Reply #37 on: February 10, 2014, 12:11:37 PM »

AXLE Addendum -- Exposed axle lengths:

   As an additional help to Reply #3 above, the following list tells how much axle is exposed beyond the ends of the housings.  If you plan to use Peerless axles, this will help you determine what axles you might want to use to get the length you need.  These dimensions have been calculated by subtracting what's inside the housings (7-5/8" on the left side and 11-1/2" on the right side) from the lengths of each axle shaft.
   NOTE 1: These exposed lengths include the area at the ends of the axles for the snap-ring grooves, and keep in mind that a thrust washer should always be installed on each axle between the wheel/brake hub and the outer axle bearing inside the end of the housing.
   NOTE 2: The 820 transaxle housing is 19-5/8" (49.9 cm) wide.
 
Length (Left)                   P/N             Exposed length                            
12-5/16" (31.3 cm)        774832         4-11/16" (11.9 cm)                    
13-9/32" (33.7 cm)        774960         5-5/8" (14.3 cm)                        
14-5/16" (36.4 cm)        774856         6-11/16" (17 cm)                        
15-7/16" (39.2 cm)        774938*       7-13/16" (19.8 cm)                    
16-31/32" (43.1 cm)      774970*       9-5/16" (23.7 cm)                    
                                                                      
Length (Right)                P/N              Exposed length
16-3/16" (41.1 cm)        774831         4-11/16" (11.9 cm)
17-3/16" (43.7 cm)        774961         5-11/16" (14.4 cm)
18-3/16" (46.2 cm)        774855         6-11/16" (17 cm)
22-1/16" (56.0 cm)        774915*       10-5/16" (26.2 cm)
22-7/32" (56.4 cm)        774971*       10-11/16" (27.1 cm)
23-13/16" (60.5 cm)      774823*       12-5/16" (31.3 cm)                                                
26-1/4" (66.7 cm)          774795A       14-3/4" (37.5 cm)
27" (68.6 cm)                774825         15-1/2" (39.4 cm)        

* Currently Obsolete

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO                                      
Logged

"No matter how many material possessions or awards you may acquire in your lifetime, the only thing you will ever truly own is your reputation." (Age 66)
MowMow
Newbie
*

Karma: 0
Offline Offline

Posts: 5


View Profile
« Reply #38 on: June 11, 2014, 12:37:43 PM »

Hey i am considering doing a pulley swap  bash bash bash bash bash to my Montgomery Ward 18/38 mower that has a twin cylinder engine and i am wondering what would be the best way to increase speed? what cretin pulley swaps should i do?
Logged
Pages: 1 2 [3]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!


Google visited last this page October 19, 2014, 04:30:40 AM