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Author Topic: John Deere Pulling Tractor for 010  (Read 25540 times)
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Big daddy
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« Reply #15 on: December 15, 2009, 08:43:29 AM »

If you are looking for the front reduction housing from the "original" cub, and maybe the axle housings also from that transaxle, give Don Vogt a call. He had an advertisement on GTPulling about a butt load of parts.
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #16 on: December 15, 2009, 09:12:33 AM »

The crank pto diameter is 1 7\16. This engine was run 20 years ago with this entire setup in a pulling tractor. Its been shelved for that long until I bought it. I will get ahold of Don V. about the original parts.
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #17 on: December 30, 2009, 09:23:54 AM »

Started Jr's new stock class tractor. It started as a Wheelhorse 308. I pulled all the Wheelhorse sheetmetal off of it. Using the wheel horse frame I have sectioned a fender/setpan from a 200 series JD on to the wheel horse chassis. The steering has been lowered and moved back 3 inches. This is so JR can drive with out feeling uncomfortable. The column the steering shaft is in is from a rear engine JD. The fender pan has been narrowed 6 inches. I have to cut the JD foot rests out of it and section the Wheelhorse foot rests into the JD fender pan. This tractor has to run 23x10.50x12 tires. It will have a 16hp kohler k341. All stock on the governor at 4000rpm.

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Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan
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« Reply #17 on: December 30, 2009, 09:23:54 AM »

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FlatheadPuller
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« Reply #18 on: January 04, 2010, 01:03:31 PM »

Here is some more of what I got done this past weekend. I got the steering buttoned up on my tractor.

I also got the wheelhorse foot rests grafted into the JD fender pan. I am also using the factory wheel horse belt gaurd.


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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #19 on: January 29, 2010, 10:11:43 PM »

Been a little slow. Been working a ton and buying parts. Haven't got much more done. I did however send my piston to a guy in ohio. He is making me a billet connecting rod for the AGND. Uses a kohler rod bearing and is made from 7075. I am awaiting arrival of my custom manely stainless steel valves as well. They told me they will be shipped Feb 8.

Bruce, my Vw flywheel and hub is a total of 20lbs. This is not including the psi plate or disk. Do you think I should lighten it up some more. The crank shaft in this AGND dwarfs a k series crank. Its solid forged steel. Solid rod pin. Its just a beast.

The cam I have boxed up. Sending it to Chuck Vogel to get a stock altered grind put on it. I have to CC the head and figure compression ratio. Then the machine shop can weld the head up and reshape combustion chamber.
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #20 on: March 06, 2010, 10:13:22 PM »

I acually started it over. The more I looked at what i had the more I wanted to make changes to it. A couple rules changed with my club and I couldn't resist. I am now building a 1" tube componet chassis. Using a original cub reduction housing. Very low slung, low engine mounts, low trans input. I bought a metal brake and a tubing notcher. I have flattop fenders i built that resemble those from a 6030 JD. The hood and fenders will look like a mid 60's 6030. I think it will be much nicer and more apealing to the eyes. I will have some pics in a week or so after final welding is done.

Jrs tractor is in 90% primer. Just a couple more parts to refinish.
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #21 on: March 07, 2010, 09:58:30 AM »

Here are Jrs fenders finished and in prime. I got the center cut out for the weight box under the fender pan. All wieght brackets are made as well. I need to bend up the hood. I just got a new sheet metal brake. Need to try it out.

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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #22 on: March 08, 2010, 06:29:49 AM »

I think the 20lb. flywheel will be fine. I would make it modular if you can, i.e. make a hub that you can change plates with. Most individuals that I have talked with for that class are using a little heavier flywheel with the shorter stroke engines, but the stroke in your engine has a considerable difference in stroke so you will not need as heavy a flywheel as others in that type of class.
I may have your engine confused with someone else, sorry. If you are using a stock stroke 16 Kohler then 20 lbs. will work ok, but 25+lbs. will work better for you as long as you get the engine spun up on the line and let the engine with that flywheel combination do the work on the other end of your run.
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #23 on: March 08, 2010, 12:53:54 PM »

You have it right Bruce. My engine is a 4 inch stroke. The flywheel and hub is 20lbs plus whatever the clutch disk and p plate wiegh. I think it will be around 28-30 lbs total. I do have enough room to lighten the flywheel if needed. I can get it down to 12lbs according to the VW experts I have spoke with.

Dennis
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #24 on: March 08, 2010, 03:31:49 PM »

I would say with that long of stroke if you could get the outer rotating mass down to between 15-18lbs. in my opinion that would be better. With the longer strokes too much outer mass can slow them down a little.
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #25 on: March 08, 2010, 09:00:39 PM »

Well I guess I have to make a trip to my machinest buddy and have the flywheel put on the lathe. My cam blank is done and should be at Vogel in a few days. I am going with a .340 lift cam per my class rules. .340-290-8 grind. Chuck said it should work good with the 4 inch stroke to fill the cylinder to make some power. Hoping to turn it 6500+, we will see.
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #26 on: March 09, 2010, 05:25:36 AM »

When you get that motor up to 6500+ it is going to be a bear to contend with in that class. You may have a little different gearing than what everyone else is running though. I would plan on having at least one gear possibly two higher in the box than what the guys with the 3.25 stroke are running. You should be making more torque than they are, but with that short stroke the other engines will probably turn tighter than yours will. Don't let that get to you, you will have tons more torque than what they have.
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #27 on: March 09, 2010, 09:13:55 AM »

I will be running a 4 speed setup in a internal brake housing with a original reduction so it will be over driven 38.5%. I was planing on going with a 17-18-19-20 which is like a 22-23-24-25 in a regular box. In our light classes I ran the 25 tooth with my open rpm briggs twin and a set of double cut super lugs.  I still have the tires and will be using them. My briggs only turned 5000-5500. I can use the lower gears hopefully in the heavy classes . My classes will be 900lbs up to 1150lbs
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #28 on: March 14, 2010, 08:24:12 PM »

Well thanks to the other fab guys on heymow for giving me the drive to build something I was happy with. I think its is alot easier on the eyes. Its a roller but I have more gussets to install. It is built from 1" o.d. seamless drawn tubing. Pipe bender and a tubing notcher, 6 hours and this is what I have so far. Hope you like it as much as I do.

I used a original cub reduction housing to get it super low. The front tires are not going to be used, I am waiting for my 6" tri ribs to come.





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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #29 on: March 30, 2010, 06:18:35 PM »

Finally got some of my one off custom go fast goodies in the mail. A guy out of Ohio built this stuff for me. He also made the cam blank wich Vogel currently has.

I tried getting the tape ruler in there so you could see how long the rod is. It is 12 inches in total length.

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Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan
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