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Author Topic: John Deere Pulling Tractor for 010  (Read 24909 times)
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FlatheadPuller
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« on: December 10, 2009, 06:54:18 PM »

I am building another tractor for garden tractor pulls. Going to start a build thread on this one to. It might be a little slow as its a winter project. It will use modified cub cadet frame rails, cub rear axle and steering gear. Custom front axle, VW clutch and an AGND wisconsin engine. I have JD 216 sheet metal for it. It will be setup like a half pint chassis but will not use a drop box. I like the half pint chassis style but in our rules you cannot use a drop box. I figured out a way to get around using a drop box wich you'll see later.





This is the front axle I built. It is entirely my design. I couldn't find one I liked in the aftermarket catalogs so I built my own.
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2009, 05:03:14 AM »

You might look into using the front reduction housing from the original cub cadet tractor. It may not drop quite as much as a "drop box". But it is factory equipment, you may have to alter the gear ration from what you could get with a drop box, but I have seen this done.
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2009, 05:14:01 AM »

I like that. Looking forward to keeping up on the build.
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Richard
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« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2009, 05:14:01 AM »

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FlatheadPuller
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« Reply #3 on: December 13, 2009, 08:31:37 PM »

Put a big dent in it this weekend. Started with two frame rails and ended with a rolling chassis.


I scored this cub axle off Craigslist for $40

The frame rails cut to fit under the cub axle instead of on top.

JD steering gear. Its the same box that the cubs use just different mounting pattern.


The rear rims were made from 4 rims. They were cut on a lathe with the correct offset and valve stem orientation and welded together with a tig. No tubes, no air leaks. The tires will get double cut by myself. The Carlisle are very good when double cut. Were I pull I will run a carlisle against a purpose built tire anyday. The frame will get cut out where the engine is and dropped 3 more inches. I am having a driveshaft made to connect the trans and clutch housing. 1000 series ujoints and 3/4 4140 stressproof steel for the shaft.
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Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan
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« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2009, 08:48:04 PM »

Looks pretty solid. I like it all ready. Don't have any ?s on it yet. Thank you for keeping us up to date and explaining it.
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Richard
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« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2009, 09:32:14 PM »

Looks good Dennis.  I had some front wheels just like those  LOL!!!!

Chuck Miller
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Big daddy
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« Reply #6 on: December 14, 2009, 05:36:01 AM »

I would get rid of the u joints, and align the engine, drive shaft and input shaft. With a cub style clutch there is torsional as well as compressive stress applied to the driveline.
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #7 on: December 14, 2009, 09:01:33 AM »

It will not have a cub cluch Bruce. IT has a VW set up that is all self contained in the clutch housing. All I have to do is slide the ujoints on and go.
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #8 on: December 14, 2009, 11:32:10 AM »

All the VW clutches I have ever seen in a puller still did not use a U-joint. I would align everything, use a carrier bearing and still forget the U-jolint.
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #9 on: December 14, 2009, 11:58:19 AM »



Here is the clutch housing Bruce. I removed the chain setup. Now there is a 1/2 inch plate that bolts to the rear side of the bellhousing. It has a sealed high speed bearing with a locking coller on it. That bearing holds the rear of the shaft. The pilotbearing in the crank is a roller pilot bearing. All this stays with the engine when it removed. I am using the original VW bellhousing to release the clutch. The wieght of the clutch housing is only 20lbs. Since a VW clutch is a push type clutch there will be no where for the output shaft of the clutch housing to go but toward the engine. The engine is so tall I cannot get it under the hood If I use a cub clutch setup.
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #10 on: December 14, 2009, 01:20:46 PM »

I see what you are getting at now. Makes sense with a pic. All other VW clutches I have seen used a different flywheel arrangement than we typically use with the Kohler type engines and was just not getting a grasp for the use of the u-joint. Have you had a chance to get a hold of the different reduction housing we spoke of earlier? To see where the input shaft CL will be. I figured the Wisconsin engine you were going to use would be taller than the Kohler type engine, but for your class rules should work out fine. I would still think about a carrier bearing especially if the driveshaft CL does not align with the input shaft or crank CL. The input shafts on these transmissions are not very thick and will not stand much horizontal deflection without breaking. Looks like you are getting down the road with it! Keep on keeping on!!
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #11 on: December 14, 2009, 02:01:49 PM »

I am still looking for the original series reduction housing. I have not found one yet. As far as a carrier bearing. It will not run unless it has one. Thats a chance I don't need to take. The engine is alot taller than a k series. Its is 21.5" tall without the plug. That clutch housing is the actual bellhousing from a vw transaxle. The vw clutches you have seen,what style vw clutch disk and pressure plate was used. They make a few different plate loads and disk types. I have been told a stock vw clutch gives good results.
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #12 on: December 14, 2009, 03:19:05 PM »

It was a VW clutch and pressure plate as far as what style I could not say, a steel flywheel is made that will work on a Kohler crank and is made to accept the VW clutch and pressure plate. Chuck Vogel use to make them and all the parts associated with them. Years ago before we had good clutches a lot of pullers used them, I have a feeling we may be going back to them in the next few years. Some new stuff has come out that bumped the numbers some more, I should say some new stuff to go with stuff that has been around for decades, anyway the clutches we have now are starting to falter again. Some of the pullers I talked to say they loved the VW clutch because it did not slip once engaged and some I talked to said they had trouble slipping it off of the line. But I seen a few of them abuse them off the line and done really well. I know Chuck Vogel had one in his blown tractor and had good luck with it. I may go to one in the next few years, depends on how things turn out this winter.
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Bruce Litton
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« Reply #13 on: December 14, 2009, 05:44:20 PM »

From what I have seen in the VW mags and online in the dune buggy forums you can get 3,4,5 puck clutches 6,8,10 respectivly. Presure plates into the 2500lb ratings. If they hold 250+hp in a rail or street bug a garden tractor out to be nothing for them. I am going to try the 3 puck disk and a stock psi plate. They are 12-1500lbs stock. My flywheel bolts to a hub that gets slid on the pto side of the engine. The flywheel has had alot of work done to it. With the psi plate on the flywheel it should be in the 25-30lb range.
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Dennis Bazzett
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« Reply #14 on: December 15, 2009, 05:24:07 AM »

I do know that a lot of the pullers that use the VW set up have their flywheel lightened up. What is the crank diameter on the end you will mount the flywheel. If it is not thick enough and have enough bearing support the crank will fail prematurely. Most of them lighten the flywheel by drilling large holes in them in the areas that will not affect the functionality of the flywheel for the clutch. Check out Vogel manufacturing and midwest supercub's website. You will see some examples of the flywheels I am talking about and see how they have lightened them up. I think 12-1500lbs on the pressure rating should be quite sufficient pressure.
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Bruce Litton
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