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Author Topic: ARMA Super Modified Twin for 2010  (Read 45633 times)
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jerb
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« on: November 13, 2009, 05:17:50 PM »

well after finally going out to the bone pile and dragging a step through chassis out of the weeds, i now have a chassis to start working on, this will be a pretty slow build as time and money allows, although i hope to have it finished sometime around april or may, it will be powered by a horizontal van-guard twin, with a jackshaft and either a foot clutch or a cent clutch, havent decided on that yet, will have 6x7.25 rims up front and 8x8 rims on the rear and mower tires for now, this is what it looks like now...hope to get it tore down sunday afternoon and start  building the front axle and reinforcing the under side of the chassis...all for now, any ideas as i go along will be greatly appreciated...
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Tim Jerby
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« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2009, 05:48:19 PM »

Looks like a good one to use! Dang it!  doh Why can't I ever find a good hood like that without all the louvers in it, or a nice set of rear fenders like that!  bigsmile
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Jim Klauss
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George Herrin
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« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2009, 06:12:35 PM »

All ya gotta do it ask.
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George Herrin #6
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« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2009, 06:12:35 PM »

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jerb
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« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2009, 02:51:45 PM »

well, took some time today to get the chassis stripped down to the bare bones, hopefully tomorrow i get out to the shop and start cutting, welding and cussing.... lol gonna try and get front axle built as well as the rear axle bearing mounts welded in and get the chassis stiffened up with some light gauge 1'' square tubing......the fun begins!!!!
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Tim Jerby
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« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2009, 06:37:32 PM »

The only advice I could give at this point is.......do your homework and have a well thought out plan before you start welding in a lot of material. I might be able to help you out with some guidelines for crankshaft centerlines, engine offset and things like that when your ready.
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Ryan Kerr
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« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2009, 10:42:29 PM »

The only advice I could give at this point is.......do your homework and have a well thought out plan before you start welding in a lot of material. I might be able to help you out with some guidelines for crankshaft centerlines, engine offset and things like that when your ready.

Well said Ryan. Do LOTS of homework, and take your time. Also, put your money in the chassis first and get it top notch. Don't worry about a big motor. Those Canadian guys took home 3rd and 4th in Outlaw twin at the All American with STOCK motors  lol
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Tyler Cromwell - Cromwell Racing Engines, specializing in Briggs and Stratton Vanguard and Kohler Command V-twin engines, from mild to wild! Built to win, built to last.

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jerb
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« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2009, 11:33:07 PM »

well said guys.... the ideas are buzzing in my head, this will be thought out, ordering a seat tomorrow, and kinda take it from there, wanted to work on the chassis today, but other, more important things got in the way, im sure you guys gonna get your share of pm's...... lol
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Tim Jerby
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« Reply #7 on: November 26, 2009, 12:49:31 AM »

well guys, been getting plenty done, and have plenty of pics, but.......my computer had a virus about a week ago, got that fixed, but lost the software for my camera, its a hewlett packard hp 315, yea i know ancient, but it was free..anybody know a site to get the drivers downloaded, everything ive found requires the cd that came with the camera, which i dont have, if i did have it, would be a piece of cake....any ideas, besides buying a new camera? thats an axle and a set of hubs... lol
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Tim Jerby
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« Reply #8 on: November 26, 2009, 05:11:33 AM »

Jerb, you can go to HP.com and download what you need.
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Chuck Moritz
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« Reply #9 on: November 26, 2009, 07:21:47 AM »

on these frames can you extend them any or just off set them to the right  confused
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George Herrin
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« Reply #10 on: November 26, 2009, 08:28:06 AM »

The rules say .....
CHASSIS: Frames and parts, must retain original manufacturers (OEM) specifications (no chopping) re: wheel base, length and width. Material (steel round or square) may be added for structural strength. It is recommended that front axles be bolted or welded rigid eliminating the stock pivoting.

Off set is specific in it says from center of frame to outside left tire 19" center of frame to outside of right tire 23" Thats sidewall by the way
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
jerb
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« Reply #11 on: November 26, 2009, 05:12:36 PM »

well finally got some pics downloaded off my computer, tell me what ya think!

back section of frame cut-off even with the rest of the frame...


these two pics are how i reinforced the stock chassis, i used light gauge 1'' square tubing...


these two pictures are the seat mounted, i did change the back mounts the next day after a few mods were done around the seat...



the above three pics show how i used light gauge material to box the seat in to make it sorta look like it came that way. it also adds strength behind the seat where the axle bearing mounts will be installed, the seat is as far back as i could get it and still retain the original wheelbase...


these two pics show that i deed indeed leave the stock back half of the frame intact..



i built the front axle after carefully measuring the wheels and tires, the 4'' offset, and its built for 1.75" frame height with 13'' diameter front tires, this took some time, and i would easily just order an axle next time, the angles took some time to figure, its built of heavy gauge 1 1/2'' square tubing,but the end result turned out to my liking...next up is building the spindles and getting the rear axle installed, and start figuring out the fenders, planning on using mtd fenders,the 2 piece style, we will see
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Tim Jerby
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2009 mowfast mod-x champion
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Coming soon...super mod twin!
George Herrin
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« Reply #12 on: November 26, 2009, 05:34:35 PM »

Very impressive so far.... Very clean fabrication. Looking good.
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
jerb
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« Reply #13 on: November 26, 2009, 05:44:29 PM »

Thank You George, i must admit these are quite different than the conventional chassis, they keep ya thinking, but so far so good and having fun building it....
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Tim Jerby
2010 round 2 monster energy drink mod-x champion
2009 mowfast mod-x champion
2009 mowfast sportsman runner-up
Coming soon...super mod twin!
George Herrin
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« Reply #14 on: November 26, 2009, 06:12:15 PM »

Be sure to run a third bearing. AND a .250 thick axle. When you get traction things move allot more than you will ever imagine. I know trust me. ALSO I would build your ride height a tad high with mower tires. You will want to go with Kart tires up front and either Hoosiers (same as Turf Pros ) in rear or maybe a set of American racers in rear. Box the rear in with tubing as much now while open hard to go back after its built.
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George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!
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