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Author Topic: Drive pulley on a 18hp briggs and stratton I/C  (Read 8361 times)
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huntersdad
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« Reply #15 on: September 28, 2009, 11:38:30 PM »

I wanted to remove both and replace the drive pulley with one that was a little bigger and hopefully cut the excess off of the output shaft just under where the bolt goes to reattach the pulley to the crankshaft that way I should have plenty of clearence from the ground when I lower my mowchine
But how by cutting  them
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Toadworks
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« Reply #16 on: September 28, 2009, 11:39:25 PM »

go to this link....  the pictures show a transaxle,  but the idea is the same. What you have is simply an old stacked drive pulley that is stuck to the PTO. And don't cut the PTO as it is part of the machining of the crankshaft......

http://acmemowersports.com/how_to_remove_a_pulley.html


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huntersdad
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« Reply #17 on: September 28, 2009, 11:46:08 PM »

is that a saw blade????/ but Im serious when i say that the pulleys are welded I mean they realley are its not a figure of speach there is a definate weld bead going from the innerside of the pulley to the shaft
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« Reply #17 on: September 28, 2009, 11:46:08 PM »

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jerb
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« Reply #18 on: September 28, 2009, 11:51:35 PM »

is that a saw blade????/ but Im serious when i say that the pulleys are welded I mean they realley are its not a figure of speach there is a definate weld bead going from the innerside of the pulley to the shaft
if there's a bead they are welded on, take an angle grinder and grind on the end of the crank till the weld is gone, and the crank does not need to be shortened even on a 4'' frame height!
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Toadworks
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« Reply #19 on: September 28, 2009, 11:56:04 PM »

Okay, the first step is for you to remove the two pulleys that are welded together (the stacked drive pulley) It's just stuck. it will come off, you may have to resort in cutting it parallel to the PTO and splitting it open to get it loose, but you may find that some penetrating oil and some time will allow it to slide off easier.

After removing the pulley, do us all a favor and continue to disassemble the mower, install better steering, better brakes, bolt the wheels on (snap rings alone won't work) aand install a tethered kil switch after that has been accomplished THEN and only THEN change the gear ratio to make it go faster. And then before you drive down the street... get your safety gear on, helmet, long sleeves, pants, boots, neck collar

I have a feeling that the moderators will be locking this thread down soon. We really do stress the importance of SAFETY and doing things like a simple pulley change and tearing off down the street to see how fast it goes is something that is frowned upon severely here. It will get you banned from the site. So if you want to contiue to get help, you need to make sure we understand that you are just as rule oriented and safety conscious as the rest of us.

 
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huntersdad
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« Reply #20 on: September 28, 2009, 11:58:21 PM »

well if i am successful at getting them off is there a pulley that can be welded back in its place one that is completley round with no key
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Toadworks
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« Reply #21 on: September 29, 2009, 12:03:17 AM »

no a smooth bore won't work, you need the key to "lock" the shaft of the PTO and they hub of the pulley together.

I think what you are seeing is the end of the hub on the the top pulley, and the weld you see is at the top of the bell hub of the lower pulley. the bolt that you took out is at the end of the PTO shaft. Everything that sticks out lower than that bolt can be cut any old way you want.
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huntersdad
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« Reply #22 on: September 29, 2009, 12:16:43 AM »

Well Like I said before Im not looking to go down the street just to see how many cars i pass all i want to do is start the motor feel it go into gear and dismount tear it down and rebuilt it the right way  I am very safety savvey  I just dont want you guys to think that way because im a newbie but I thank you for your concern. Since I have no experience at this I dont know if it will work until i try it first..

I have already removed the stack pulley and i can see that they are indeed welded there is no hub that im aware of either if I could I would like to post pics tommorrow oh and also my pulley does not have a key  the inside of the input is the key its punched in
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GTX21
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« Reply #23 on: September 29, 2009, 01:37:07 PM »

Well Like I said before Im not looking to go down the street just to see how many cars i pass all i want to do is start the motor feel it go into gear and dismount tear it down and rebuilt it the right way  I am very safety savvey  I just dont want you guys to think that way because im a newbie but I thank you for your concern. Since I have no experience at this I dont know if it will work until i try it first..

I have already removed the stack pulley and i can see that they are indeed welded there is no hub that im aware of either if I could I would like to post pics tommorrow oh and also my pulley does not have a key  the inside of the input is the key its punched in
Thats why you buy a pulley that has a keyway in it and get a key thats big enough to fit in the crank and the pulleys key way
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huntersdad
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« Reply #24 on: September 29, 2009, 04:03:09 PM »

So by what your saying do I just trash what I have and find a pulley that goes directly on the shaft of the motor,the shaft itself is grooved fron the bottom up to the base of the motor and by doing that I will need spacers or bushings to hold the pulley in placce right????????
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Toadworks
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« Reply #25 on: September 29, 2009, 04:46:47 PM »

Pictures please. You still have me confused by what you are describing as the information in the PM you sent me is different than the info posted here.

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huntersdad
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« Reply #26 on: September 29, 2009, 04:53:10 PM »

going now to snap a few ill post them asap
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huntersdad
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« Reply #27 on: September 29, 2009, 06:35:36 PM »









the pulley on top is bent because I thought that I could beat it off guess not
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Toadworks
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« Reply #28 on: September 29, 2009, 06:48:35 PM »

Okay what we have here is failure to communicate.

You have successfully removed the pulley, now find the recycle bin and toss it in. The shaft that is left at the bottom of the motor is just what it should be a 1" diameter keyed shaft. You will purchase a new 1" bore keyed pulley that will slide onto the PTO and be secured by the bolt and washer that you removed to take the stacked drive pulley off. You will also need a key since the key in your original hub of the stacked pulley is stamped in.

I see what you were trying to do now and that is to keep and re-use the hub from the stacked pulley set. You don't need that part.

Here is an example of a new pulley;

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009092918551505&item=1-BK45-E&catname=powerTrans
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overkillphil
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« Reply #29 on: October 09, 2009, 02:27:15 PM »

The original bolt and washer will undoubtedly be useless for the new pulley you will be purchasing.  You will need a couple of shaft collar locks as I would not rely on the dinky little allenhead set screw that comes with cast iron pulleys.  BTW, I would try to find some steel pulleys or get some good aluminum ones from EC.  I don't like the heavyness of the cast iron pulleys, especially when they start getting larger in diameter.  They are like a giant cast iron flywheel and it makes it harder to slow the engine down abruptly.
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She got the goldmine, I got the shaft.
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