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 11 
 on: Today at 03:46:25 PM 
Started by rene knoll - Last post by flatlanderfornow
maybe a little more if you spin it fast enough

 12 
 on: Today at 02:23:46 PM 
Started by Skeeter - Last post by Skeeter
OK I forgot to post something. On the frame rails, on the front. Using an adjustable angle finder, set it to 10 degrees and mark the front of the frame rails from the bottom up. This will give you a rearward tilt (at the top) to the front axle when it is time to weld it on. I used a horizontal band saw to ensure that both were cut to the same angle in the same place.
Here you can see that the distance between the frame rails is 15".


Ok so now both rails are tack welded to the table.



Got the front axle ready to weld on, but first I want to add a 3/4" thin wall square tubing in between the inside front of the rails.
Here is the tubing and the front axle all welded up.



When setting the square tubing in place make sure that the top of the square tubing is even with the frame rails. The front axle gets welded to this square tubing and the frame rails.
Now before welding on the front axle measure for the center between the front rails. If the frame rails are 15" then center should be 7.5" Check from both sides and ensure that it is the center. Now measure you front axle and find the center of it. Now at the 7.5" mark on the center square tubing measure to the right ( as if you were sitting on the mower) 2" and make another mark. This mark and the center of the front axle will be lined up. Clamp it into place and measure from the left frame rail out to the end of the front axle. Record this measurement. Then measure from the right frame rail out to the end of the right side of the front axle. Record this measurement. Now if you will be able to tell if the "offset" as allowed in the USLMRA rules is correct. It is a 4" offset.

With the frame rails still tack welded to the table and the front axle set flat on the table and clamped into place, weld it all together.

Finished product should look some thing like this.



Had a man tell me that my shop was not a shop. He said it was a museum, but in my defense I have a little OCD going on and like to keep it sorta clean and neat. I won't post his name but you all know him and he works up around the middle of Tennessee.

Now that the front is done lets move to the rear of the frame rails. I cut a 2" X 2" X 1/8" section of angle iron 15" long. This gets clamped to the top of the rear frame rails like this.




Because the frame rails are 15" wide and the angle iron is 15" wide it all fits perfectly. Just has to be welded together. Now we have a square frame to build on. More to come so stay tuned..... Cool

 13 
 on: Today at 01:36:38 PM 
Started by jmiracle83 - Last post by jmiracle83
Knock and door ups guy is here with some more goodies

 14 
 on: Today at 12:43:31 PM 
Started by Skeeter - Last post by Skeeter
OK everyone it has been a long time since I tried posting up a build, but here we go again. This is an FXS using a GX390 engine and Murray wide body rails.
First things first. Get a Murray wide body mower and unbolt it all the way down to the rails. Clean up all the rust and gunk off of it and sand off the paint. This is will make the welding process so much easier.


OK now we need a flat clean metal table. In the previous picture you can see my welding table. Using clamps I clamped a large straight scrap piece of angle to the table so I had a starting point to keep everything square. Starting with a known flat square surface will produce a good flat square frame.

Now clamp one of the Murray rails to the angle iron and tack weld it to the table.




Once that is done unclamp the angle iron and clamp it to the second frame rail.  Measure (twice) both ends of the Murray rail to 15" outside to out side. This ensures that the first frame rail is the same as the second one and they are parallel to each other. Double check to ensure that the frame rails are square to each other as pictured. Then tack weld it to the table. Great now we have a starting point.

 15 
 on: Today at 07:47:05 AM 
Started by rene knoll - Last post by cycloneracer
Kohler will build more power for less money.   There just isn't as many used parts out there yet.

I had a Intek that I had more money in than the current Kohler I have on my BP.  It is night and day difference.   The Kohler has a bigger RPM range as well, making for fewer gear changes.

 16 
 on: Today at 07:02:04 AM 
Started by rene knoll - Last post by Rooster
Yes it will work well.
"410 lift" means that it lifts the valve .410 inches off of the seat......kinda, lol.

 17 
 on: Today at 06:57:54 AM 
Started by boomboom - Last post by Rooster
Does that mean gap them as normal? Will it make a difference or no?
gap as normal yes

 18 
 on: Today at 05:45:42 AM 
Started by junkyard - Last post by veedubmikey
 no longer the rough riders, you can see the schedule here. http://pottervillesodslingers.com/

 19 
 on: Today at 01:23:14 AM 
Started by Tim69A - Last post by finn1
just wanted to thank everyone at wiconisco this past weekend. had a great time,and was great to see alot of people i havnt seen in a while,and to meet people i have talked to or met here on heymow.com. cant wait to get more racing in. thanks bob

 20 
 on: Today at 01:17:37 AM 
Started by George Herrin - Last post by finn1
hey george on a super mod should the spindles be in the center of the axle? or below the center of the axle? mine are centered with spacers, i was having a major plowing issue this past weekend. i was running 10psi on all tires except right rear which was about 14psi. i am about 260lbs.thanks bob

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