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 11 
 on: August 22, 2014, 07:11:33 PM 
Started by zach87cp - Last post by zach87cp
I was,wondering what a good cable for a cable operated clutch I'm running one on my supermod twin and it broke it was just One I had laying around the garage and have no idea what its off of I tried a,mini bike one and it broke just putting it on thanks for any help.

 12 
 on: August 22, 2014, 07:07:47 PM 
Started by chini - Last post by George Herrin
we run .0025

 13 
 on: August 22, 2014, 06:47:40 PM 
Started by chini - Last post by chini
  What kind of piston to wall clearance does an 49 inch need?
   Thanks, Kevin

 14 
 on: August 22, 2014, 03:20:46 PM 
Started by Mowterhead - Last post by redline
A 31 CI WILL BEAT A 28 ALL THE TIME, EVERYTIME PERIOD!


Nah. Back when my brother in law and I ran Briggs, all we ran was 28 cubes. And we did just fine..

 15 
 on: August 22, 2014, 03:16:59 PM 
Started by Mowterhead - Last post by Mowterhead
Thanks for all the info!! You all have been a big help thanks will keep y'all posted on how everything comes along

 16 
 on: August 22, 2014, 03:16:54 PM 
Started by crazycraftsman - Last post by redline

Huh. I make my holes like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZHWkdfqrxU

 17 
 on: August 22, 2014, 02:37:45 PM 
Started by h1ppahd00d - Last post by CatDr.
our next race is sept 13@5pm. check out out facebookpage@ applerivermowtorspeedway to see pics and our schedule.

 18 
 on: August 22, 2014, 02:37:10 PM 
Started by Mowterhead - Last post by Huffy044
The OHV Briggs can be made to perform very well, however they do have issues:
****Use the crankshaft out of a 12 hp flattie and the oil pan on the 28 through the 31ís, this allows the ARC balance weights to be used. Modification is required to do this to the AVS (see below)****

1.They will not tolerate (break cranks)any timing over 30 deg.-Use a degree wheel to check-do not go by the marks on the flywheel(assuming you get a ARC aluminum wheel)
2. Some 28 and 31 have the coil mounted off to the side-not lined up with the cylinder, this advances the timing-again use the degree wheel.
3. They will break the stock rockers-use EC's aluminum ($200? Or mine for $40, mine are modified stock ones guaranteed for one year)-
4. They WILL pull the rocker studs out of the head-put a plate under the head, use longer studs or use my Stud Bridge ($50.0O also adds rigidity to head to prevent head gasket from blowing)
5.Use a copper head gasket (EC or make your own)
6.AVS engines (identify by oil tube going into block, non AVS goes into oil pan) both 28 and 31 have some that are AVS
7.The AVS WILL break the timing gear, no aftermarket available at this time, (good chance it will also break the oil pan $80 and the cam $150, highly suggest you not build a AVS with a AVS crank in it).
8.You can take a 31 AVS and put a 28 CI flathead oil pan an crankshaft in it IF you weld the top and bottom and the oil fill hole in the block. This will allow you to run the small journal crank, brass syncro eliminators, ARC rod and piston. Block must be machined back down to get the oil pan to seal. I ran two of these engines this year in a Mod and a Pro-had no problems with them, won regional in the mod, was in 2nd at the Nats until a guy jumped the restart and put me on the ground. The deal with building the 31 is you get a factory bore and donít have to pay $150 to bore a 28 (assuming you cant find a non AVS 31) A 31 CI WILL BEAT A 28 ALL THE TIME, EVERYTIME PERIOD! You need to be able to weld aluminum and access to a milling machine, if you do this make a jig to support the block so the machinist can clamp it on the milling table. I used a heavy peice of square tubing, used one of my broken cranks, machined it down, bolted it to the block through the flywheel side and made plate that bolted to where the head goes on the block. This keeps the block from warping when you weld it. You WILL get porosity when you weld the block, don't worry about it, gasket sealer will seal it.

Want to go fast and the engine live? Do this:

Cut the head .125
Use EC's valves, springs and retainers
Use Precision Cams Cheeta cam, Dyno has one also just as good
Small journal (non AVS) crank, ARC rod, brass eliminator plates.
Copper head gasket
ARC aluminum flywheel
EC's Carb, if you run Pro use the big Tilly (ask George)
No more than 30 deg timing
Don't try to use dual springs on valves-engine WILL break over 6500 RPM-
Donít waste your time using a large journal AVS crank, that balances, they WILL break the timing gear.


 19 
 on: August 22, 2014, 01:51:18 PM 
Started by Mowterhead - Last post by Mowterhead
Yea there's not any races within miles and miles of where I live. I'm just wanting to build a "mowkart" pretty much but I'm pretty sure the older like 80s model mowers or older had a tube frame. ... I believe anyways. I want it to be safe and fast not just fast I know if seen some on YouTube do 60+ mph though that would be awesome I'd be just as happy with 30 to 40 mph but that will just have to be played by ear. As far as the frame goes I'm glad I can use the frame I have. Well I'm at work and if I get the chance on my off days I'm gonna draw out some schemes and take some pics and post them.

 20 
 on: August 22, 2014, 01:39:27 PM 
Started by crazycraftsman - Last post by Rooster
Owen,

   How do you plan to "drill" the lightening holes in these gears?  These gears come in two types -- heat-treated steel or powdered metal -- and both types are hard.  Do you have access to special bits that will penetrate these metals, or maybe a laser cutter?  You'll need to be careful not to affect the heat-treating of the gears, especially the teeth and the bores.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO

http://youtu.be/c6wRLJWfjFw?t=47s

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