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 11 
 on: Today at 03:26:07 PM 
Started by Scott P. - Last post by chavez
Different camshaft than stock, performance mods to the carburetor. Better get a better rod too. No point in spending all your money only to have it blow up from losing a rod.


 12 
 on: Today at 02:46:00 PM 
Started by Mud Machine - Last post by Mud Machine
There is a reason the underneath steering is so poplar. 

Simple, easy, and effective. 

John Deere used a set up like your talking about on some mowers.  It used 2 tie rods.  One to each spindle straddling the engine.  I Think it used a gear drive behind the engine.  I'm not a fan of gear drive on a racing mower. 

I'd just do the underneath seeing this is your first mower.  No need to over complicate it. 




Okay thanks for the input, with the BMI spindles I have, do you think I can weld onto them or would I need to bolt?? I would much rather weld a piman arm off of them but im not sure if I could or can..
Make sure you understand "Scrub Angle" it attributes to hard steering.

I also have the "push, pull" steering, it does seem to have mechanical advantage, but after two years of running it , Ii have discovered one tiny flaw. If you move your body to either side you tend to drag the steering wheel with you, this happened to me at the end of last season, caused me to wreck as the wheels went full lock. I still like the steering, just something to remember.


I have seen the push/pull set ups, some of the super mods that race at our track run them, I might try to do the direct steering route, hopefully without losing too much clearance!! What is the push pull set up like up close and mechanical? Is it set up different than the popular underneath design?
How far do you have to turn your wheel from lock to lock?  Could have some of your linkage working against you if it's setup against your advantage. 

Like what cycloneracer said, its pretty complicated and just wont work on my mower.
EC CARB, HITCH, AND ST. CROIX CHASSIE ALL HAVE SETUPS. COMPLETE OR PARTS TO DO YOUR OWN VERISON.

Great! Whats hitch? Could you leave a link?

 13 
 on: Today at 01:52:41 PM 
Started by Scott P. - Last post by Scott P.
I am running a Briggs non-avs 31 single, I currently have a flywheel, new head w/ split locks, governor deleted, and the adjustable jet in the carb. What is the typical path you guys go with these things to get more power out of them.

I have been searching around but it seems like there are alot of different answers.

I will compile the information below:

Stage 1:
-Confirm you have split lock valve spring keepers
-Billet Flywheel
-Governor delete

Stage 2:
-Aftermarket rod
-Aftermarket cam & valve springs
-Balance crank

Stage 3:


 14 
 on: Today at 12:18:04 PM 
Started by chavez - Last post by fx28
That number is for Rocket Ron in South Carolina, I think the guy you are looking for is in Illinois somewhere, sorry I don't know his number. I think George might know how to get a hold him.
mailto:ronatchison@live.com    found his email

 15 
 on: Today at 10:22:50 AM 
Started by Mud Machine - Last post by Huffy044
Make sure you understand "Scrub Angle" it attributes to hard steering.

I also have the "push, pull" steering, it does seem to have mechanical advantage, but after two years of running it , Ii have discovered one tiny flaw. If you move your body to either side you tend to drag the steering wheel with you, this happened to me at the end of last season, caused me to wreck as the wheels went full lock. I still like the steering, just something to remember.

 16 
 on: Today at 10:18:44 AM 
Started by snydas1987 - Last post by Huffy044
As much as we would like to do things differently, sometimes it just ain't going to work. My welding plate is 1" thick and 5 X 14', it has paid for it's self many times over the last 30 years. Make the investment. Besides, wood catches on fire LOL!

 17 
 on: Today at 08:25:57 AM 
Started by David B - Last post by David B
I have been racing since 1994. Started with go carts. (Very expensive) I won points championship in 1995 and raced til 1998. Started racing lawnmowers in 1999 after a local friend talk me into it.(Jim Witt) I raced in Pensacola until the local track closed down. The closest track to me is 100 miles away but now I am going to get my mower out and race ready. I want to race in the national race this year in Foley AL. Like a little input from anyone about what class I could run at Nationals? The mower I have now is a Mid engine chassis. Old Mustung mower. I was thinking AP class?  
Also I need to know about driver eligibility for the national race. Can I race in it? Any information would be great.

Hope to see ya'll on the track.  

 18 
 on: Today at 07:48:44 AM 
Started by chavez - Last post by Hitch
If he don't have them check with Clements Racing he's got most anything.

 19 
 on: Today at 07:30:16 AM 
Started by Tom Price - Last post by slonomo
Might be interested.

pm sent

Andy

 20 
 on: Today at 07:28:22 AM 
Started by DeereRacer - Last post by slonomo
Interested in the intake for sure. 

Is the cam for a horiz engine?

pm sent

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