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1  Mower Building / Setup Help / Driveline / Dedicated 820 Peerless Racing Transaxle on: November 18, 2014, 02:52:12 PM
Heymow Transaxlers,

   Now that Peerless has the dedicated 700-139 racing transmission, I was wondering if they would be interested in offering a dedicated 820 racing transaxle, so I sent them an email with my thoughts:

   1. Reviving the obsolete 820-017 would be the best place to start.

   2. Like the 700-139 transmission, offer it "as-is" with no warranty, no lube, no brake, no Reverse (spacers instead), and since most racers prefer to supply their own axle, no axle.

   3. Instead of the late-model 820-017 ratios:
1st - 2.33:1 (15T:35T)
2nd - 1.50:1 (20T:30T)
3rd - 1.17:1 (23T:27T)
4th - 1.00:1 (25T:25T)
5th - 0.61:1 (31T:19T),
use:
1st - 2.33:1 (15T:35T)
2nd - 2.13:1 (16T:34T)
     or 1.78:1 (18T:32T)
3rd - 1.50:1 (20T:30T)
4th - 1.17:1 (23T:27T)
5th - 1.00:1 (25T:25T)
to make it more of a "close-ratio" transaxle.

   4. Use the standard 772159 'A'-Input Cover, with the 770106 Case from the 017, so there are provisions for the shift shaft to come out the top and bottom.

   5. Include both the standard 778375 short Shift Shaft for racers who want to use the transaxle pulley-top, and the 778359 Shift Shaft from the 017 for those who want it bottom-pulley, allowing the shift linkage to remain on top.  Also include the 017 Welch plug to plug whichever shift-shaft hole is not being used.

   6. Use the standard 776274 Input Shaft (full 3/4"-diameter for strength), and have the racer who is using the transaxle pulley-down field-drill the side of the Woodruff key for additional pulley retention, to supplement the snap ring.

   I would guess that we would be looking at somewhere in the $400-$500 range on cost, but I asked them about this, as well.

   Please Reply with your thoughts and feedback so I can attempt to give them some possible volume figures, as potential sales volume will dictate whether they decide to produce it.

   As part of the email, I also asked if Peerless has ever done any dynamometer testing on transmission-vs-transaxle horsepower loss.  Some racers are of the opinion that using a 700 transmission with sprockets and chain to the drive axle uses less horsepower than a transaxle with its internal final-drive gears to the drive axle.  I question this train of thought, since the 820 final-drive gears ride on shafts supported by friction-reducing needle bearings, making the horsepower loss fairly equal to the chain being flung around the sprockets.  I will post whatever scientific engineering data they reply with.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO

2  For Sale / Trannys / Axles / Wheels / Used 639A Peerless Transmission on: November 04, 2014, 11:52:52 AM
   Free to a good home (pick up; no shipping):
One (1) used Peerless 639A transaxle.  Three-speed plus reverse.  Removed from a Dynamark Model 5188-1300, vintage 1983-'84.  Seems to shift OK (includes shift lever and mount collar); pulley spins freely and smoothly; left axle turns; right axle appears frozen; wheels-&-flat-tires appear rusted to the axles.  Includes frame-mounting brackets.  Cleaned up boneyard last week and didn't have the heart to scrap it. Too big to package and ship, unless you want to arrange packaging and shipping.  Pictures available with email address.

   I will hang on to this for a reasonable amount of time.  If no interest, I will scrap it.

Respectfully,
Rodney Rom
Rom's Reworks
4276 NE State Route H
Butler, MO 64730
3  General / Coffee Shop / New "Fits All" Engine Help Category? on: October 27, 2014, 04:04:27 PM
Heymowers,

   What about starting a new heading in the Engine Help section entitled "Fits All Engines"?  I notice that there are regular posts to the Coffee Shop section that actually have to do with engine help for any engine. This would be a quicker way to find engine help that is not brand-specific.

  Your thoughts?

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
4  Mower Building / Setup Help / Driveline / Murray Transaxles? on: October 23, 2014, 10:23:41 AM
Heymowers,

   I am trying to compile a list of the transaxles Murray used in their late-model riders -- mid-engine, rear-engine, standard, or wide-body -- anything from 1997 to now.  When you look one up in the Murray Parts Lists, all they show is "Transaxle, Peerless (or Dana / Spicer) -- For Replacement Parts, see the Central Service Distributor in your area."  So...whenever any of you come across a Murray rider with its original transaxle, please note the Model Number of both the Murray and the transaxle, then let me know.  All input greatly appreciated!

   If you're unsure of the date of the mower, most late-model Murrays used Briggs & Stratton engines, so look at the first two digits of the engine Code Number -- that tells the year-of-manufacture of the engine, and that is usually also the year of the mower.

   You can Reply here, PM me, or if you want to call me directly or email me, my Contact information is in my Profile.  And yes, I am interested in hydrostats as well as gear-drive transaxles.  If I can compile a reasonably complete list, I will Post it here.

   Thanks!  Wink

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
5  General / Coffee Shop / Returning answering-machine phone call messages on: September 25, 2014, 07:32:05 PM
Heymowers,

   Do any of you know a David Cass in Coco Plains, Tennessee?  I'm not even sure on the name and spelling, but if you do know someone close to that name and location, please have him get back to me.

   This afternoon, I received a phone call on my shop answering machine, since I was outside the shop at the time the call came in.  When I checked the messages, "David" wanted to know if I still had the differential locker gears for the Peerless 820 transaxle.  I do, and I pride myself on taking care of my customers, as most of you already know, but at the end of the message, "David" said, "You can call me back on this number."  The only problem is -- he didn't tell me what number, and since I don't have CallerID, I don't have any way of getting back to him.

   When leaving an answering-machine message -- to anyone -- make sure to leave your call-back number.  It's a matter of simple phone courtesy.  And if you have to leave a message, speak clearly and distinctly, especially if you are on a cell phone (my phone is a hard-wire landline), as nothing is more frustrating than having to listen to the same message numerous times to try to decode the scratchy and static-filled message in search of a name and number.

  Thanks!

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
6  Mower Building / Setup Help / Driveline / Peerless 820 Transaxle: Torque vs Gearset Upgrade Computation on: April 13, 2014, 12:29:16 PM
Heymowers,

   I have been asked about whether changing to one of my Final-Drive Gearset Upgrades will increase or decrease torque with an 820 transaxle.  Well, let's see...  For purposes of computation, this Post will use a 20hp engine driving the transaxle with a 1:1 pulley setup (the engine pulley and transaxle input pulley are the same size) at the engine’s top governed no-load speed of 3600 RPM.  For simplicity, we will also use the 1:1 (25T:25T) gear-selector ratio, which is normally 3rd or 4th gear in most 5- and 6-speed 820s.

   The stock input ratio is 2.54:1.  The stock final-drive ratio is 8.02:1.  With the 1:1 gear-selector ratio, this gives a 20.37:1 reduction ratio, meaning that at 3600 Input RPM, the axles are turning 20.37 times slower, or 177 RPM.
   Gearset Upgrade 1 changes the 8.02:1 stock final-drive ratio to 5.61:1, meaning that the axles are turning at 253 RPM.
   Gearset Upgrade 2 changes the 8.02:1 stock final-drive ratio to 3.44:1, meaning that the axles are turning at 412 RPM.

   To convert these RPM figures to Torque, we will need to use the standard scientific formula Torque = (HP x 5252) ÷ RPM.

   With the stock final drive, this gives us 20 x 5252, or 105040, ÷ 177, which equals 593 units of axle torque.
   With Gearset Upgrade 1, we have 105040 (the same 20hp and 5252 formula constant, multiplied) ÷ 253.  This gives us 415 units of axle torque, a 30% decrease, or 70% of stock axle torque. 
   With Gearset Upgrade 2, 105040 ÷ 412 gives us 255 units of axle torque, a 57% decrease, or 43% of the stock axle torque.

   So, even though the Gearset Upgrades give us increased axle speeds, we have less torque available.

   If you know your engine horsepower and RPM, you can use your pulley sizes and the above formula to compute torque for any of your gear ratios.

   And, for those fortunate enough to be running the "017 Kit" with a 2.31:1 Final Drive Ratio, your axle is turning at 613 RPM, with a corresponding torque value of 171 units, 29% of stock torque (a 71% decrease).

   I hope this helps.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
7  Mower Building / Setup Help / Driveline / Peerless 700 Transmission Mount-Bolt Pattern on: March 07, 2014, 08:21:36 PM
Heymowers,

   The mount-bolt pattern drawing for the Peerless 700 transmission. This view is the bottom of the transmission.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
8  General / Coffee Shop / Lightweight engine template for engineering your drive system on: February 24, 2014, 11:53:01 AM
Heymowers,

   Once you have your engine built and fit to your chassis, and you need to do the trial-and-error dimensioning and fitting of your drive system, wouldn't it be much easier if you didn't have to muscle around that heavy engine?  Well...now, you don't have to.  This engine-pan-and-crankshaft template that costs next to nothing allows you to save back muscles and sweat while getting your drive system lined out.

   I made this template from an old derelict 28-cube B&S crankshaft and oil pan.  
   After cleaning the oil pan and crankshaft, I took the crankshaft and cut the bottom part of the counterweight off, just above the flange that holds the cam gear in place (Photo 1).  
   After squaring and smoothing the cut, I took an old piece of flat stock I had lying around, in this case, a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate (for further weight reduction) that was 1-3/8" wide and 10" long.  I laid this above two diagonal pan-bolt holes, punch-marked the hole positions, then drilled-and-tapped the holes 5/16"-18 to match the threads of the original oil pan bolts, since two of them would be used to hold the plate over the crankshaft stub.
   I then got four nuts to use as jam nuts, and assembled everything as you see in Photos 2, 3 and 4, leaving just enough air gap (0.010"-0.020") to allow the PTO part of the crankshaft to turn freely (Photo 5).  A couple drops of oil on the pan-bearing journal will keep this "tool" lubricated for a long time.

   Since the pan-to-chassis mounting pattern is standard for almost all engines over 8hp, this template can be used no matter which engine you are installing in your chassis.  Just bolt it to the chassis, install your pulley, and have at it!












Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
9  Mower Building / Setup Help / Driveline / Using transaxles as transmissions on: January 31, 2014, 01:41:07 PM
   I recently had a customer inquire about taking a transmission, removing one-side axle shaft, locking the differential, then putting a sprocket on the remaining axle to drive the rear axle.  I had never had anyone ask that question before.

   In researching an answer for him, I determined that if someone wanting to do this would lock the non-sprocket axle, leave the differential functioning, and put a sprocket on the remaining axle, the sprocket axle would turn twice its normal speed, thereby increasing the output speed of the transaxle.  Since the MSTs, 930s, 800/801s and other transaxles do not have higher-speed gearsets available for them, this would be an interesting way to increase output-shaft speed.  Since there wouldn't be wheels mounted to the axles, shorter axles could be used.  And since the sprocket would be driving the rear axle at the side, just inside the wheel, a single brake disc could be mounted in the center of the axle.

   I realize that there would be a slight weight disadvantage to this setup, but it does open up possibilities.  Your thoughts?  Rule compliance?  Rube Goldberg?

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
10  For Sale / Trannys / Axles / Wheels / Heavy Duty 4-on-4 Wheel Hubs with Keyed 1" Bore on: January 19, 2014, 11:10:31 AM
Heymowers,

   In a few weeks, I will have available some heavier-duty steel 4-on-4 drive-wheel hubs with 1" bore.  These hubs will have a hub length of 4-1/4", keyed full-length (1/4" keyway), a hub wall thickness of 5/16", and the 5/16"-thick wheel-mount flange face will only be set back 3/4" from the outer end of the hub.  The flange will also be mig-welded on both sides of the flange for better structural integrity than the other hubs I have listed.  These hubs will be priced at $47.00 each or $90.00 per pair plus shipping.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
11  Mower Building / Setup Help / Garden Tractor Pulling / Scale model tractor-pulling clip on: January 11, 2014, 09:07:16 PM
Pullers,

   Check out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACkmg3Y64_s .  The pulling segment of this unbelieveable scale-model layout is brief but well worth watching.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
12  General / Coffee Shop / 50 Years of Small Engines on: January 07, 2014, 05:33:36 PM
   April of 2014 will mark the 50th Anniversary of the beginning of my apprenticeship in the small-engine industry.  There was a lawn-mower shop three doors down the street from where I grew up, and I spent so much time digging through their scrap pile after hours looking for something to tinker with that the boss saw me one afternoon and asked, "Why don't you just come work for me?"

   Bob Herbert (aka "Bramble Bob") was the shop owner, and he lived two doors down, between my house and his shop. He actually started the shop in his garage in 1962, then moved to the row-building shop next door when the business outgrew his garage.  Bob was definitely a colorful character.

   The last time I was in my old neighborhood, that shop, Bramble Mower Service, is still in business as a second-generation family operation in eastern Cincinnati. It's in a different location, but still there!  It might even be third-generation by now.

   Even though I had other full-time jobs for 12-1/2 years of that half-century, I continued to work on mowers and related equipment for family and friends, so I was never far from an air-cooled engine.  The last 27 years have been exclusively small engines.  I was even lucky enough to be able to work on "small engines" during my 3-1/2 year Vietnam War Naval enlistment -- they called it "Aviation Ground Support Equipment", and an aircraft carrier at sea is an interesting work station, especially when some of those small engines were jet turbines on the flight deck when we were in the North Atlantic!


   Fifty years has produced many good memories:

Reel mowers; 

Clinton, Reo, Continental and Pincor engines;

"Toilet-seat" gas tanks on the Clintons and Pincors;

Ohlsson-Rice mini 2-cycle engines;

Wisconsin V-4s and inline-twins;

Kohler inline 2-, and 3-cylinder 2-cycle snowmobile engines;

Power Products and West Bend go-kart engines;

McCulloch opposed 4-cylinder 2-cycle small-aircraft engines;

Panzer, Power King, and Bantam tractors;

'T'-head and rear-engine Gravelys;

"Snapping Turtle" push mowers with a curved front skid instead of front wheels;

David Bradley and Remington chainsaws;

The Toro "Whirlwind" mowers;

Jacobsen's pioneering "321" engine, the first commercially-available 2-cycle mower engine to use a 32:1 gas/oil mix ratio instead of the standard 16:1 ratio, hence the name;

The 1961-'62 Sentry Safe-Cut push mower that had a counter-rotating 3-blade drum instead of a reel or a rotary blade.  I bought a new one of these in 1999 and donated it to the B&S PowerHouse Museum, since it had a Model 80206 horizontal-shaft B&S engine;

The King Midget one- and two-seat cars built in Athens, Ohio, available through an ad in Popular Science and Popular Mechanics magazines, that were first powered by Wisconsin, then Kohler;

And how many Heymowers remember the Briggs & Stratton "Sono-Duct" rotary-mower engine with the flywheel on the bottom and a perforated-metal "screen" over the top cooling fins?


   Thanks for letting me share.


Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
13  Mower Building / Setup Help / Driveline / 700 Transmission: Which side output? on: December 11, 2013, 10:55:43 AM
Heymowers,

   To those of you who use the 700 transmission, on which side of the transmission do you prefer to have the output sprocket?

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
14  General / Coffee Shop / Industry-wide mower-racing exposure on: July 27, 2013, 11:09:25 AM
...our group Southern Indiana Lawn Mower Racing Association in New Albany, IN, just across the river from Louisville, KY

Tom,

  Would SILMRA be interested in some outdoor power equipment industry-wide exposure?  This October 23-25 at the Louisville Convention Center on Preston Highway is the GIE+EXPO (Green Industry & Equipment Expo).  Booth space is fairly pricey for strugglers like us but if a group could caravan to the parking lot, do some tailgating, and just leave the mowers displayed on the trailers, it might help.  (Get there early each day to get good parking spots close to the building.)  OPEI (Outdoor Power Equipment Institute), the industry umbrella group, has yet to officially "endorse" mower racing, but their head, Kris Kiser, has been more receptive lately.  OPEI will have a booth inside.  Registering is $10.00/ea. to 9/11, $25.00/ea. 9/12-10/22, and $50.00/ea. on-site.  www.gie-expo.com, or info@gie-expo.com for specific information.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
15  General / Coffee Shop / Why not a "Fits All" Sub-section in the Engine Help Section? on: July 27, 2013, 10:47:55 AM
  Currently in the For Sale > Mower Engines & Parts Section, there is a post entitled "If you could design a muffler..."  I'm not sure why it's in the For Sale Section, but this is an ideal candidate for a Fits All Sub-section in the Engine Help Section, as it could apply to any engine.

   There are numerous similar posts and threads that, for those looking for particular information, sometimes require a good deal of searching.  The member who posted the tip may have been working on a specific engine and included it in that engine's heading even though it would help everyone's engines, but there wasn't a section for everyone's engines.  A Fits All Sub-section in the Engine Help Section would eliminate this and make it easier to find information applicable to any engine.

   Thoughts...?

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
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