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1  General / Coffee Shop / Returning answering-machine phone call messages on: September 25, 2014, 07:32:05 PM
Heymowers,

   Do any of you know a David Cass in Coco Plains, Tennessee?  I'm not even sure on the name and spelling, but if you do know someone close to that name and location, please have him get back to me.

   This afternoon, I received a phone call on my shop answering machine, since I was outside the shop at the time the call came in.  When I checked the messages, "David" wanted to know if I still had the differential locker gears for the Peerless 820 transaxle.  I do, and I pride myself on taking care of my customers, as most of you already know, but at the end of the message, "David" said, "You can call me back on this number."  The only problem is -- he didn't tell me what number, and since I don't have CallerID, I don't have any way of getting back to him.

   When leaving an answering-machine message -- to anyone -- make sure to leave your call-back number.  It's a matter of simple phone courtesy.  And if you have to leave a message, speak clearly and distinctly, especially if you are on a cell phone (my phone is a hard-wire landline), as nothing is more frustrating than having to listen to the same message numerous times to try to decode the scratchy and static-filled message in search of a name and number.

  Thanks!

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
2  Mower Building / Setup Help / Driveline / Peerless 820 Transaxle: Torque vs Gearset Upgrade Computation on: April 13, 2014, 12:29:16 PM
Heymowers,

   I have been asked about whether changing to one of my Final-Drive Gearset Upgrades will increase or decrease torque with an 820 transaxle.  Well, let's see...  For purposes of computation, this Post will use a 20hp engine driving the transaxle with a 1:1 pulley setup (the engine pulley and transaxle input pulley are the same size) at the engine’s top governed no-load speed of 3600 RPM.  For simplicity, we will also use the 1:1 (25T:25T) gear-selector ratio, which is normally 3rd or 4th gear in most 5- and 6-speed 820s.

   The stock input ratio is 2.54:1.  The stock final-drive ratio is 8.02:1.  With the 1:1 gear-selector ratio, this gives a 20.37:1 reduction ratio, meaning that at 3600 Input RPM, the axles are turning 20.37 times slower, or 177 RPM.
   Gearset Upgrade 1 changes the 8.02:1 stock final-drive ratio to 5.61:1, meaning that the axles are turning at 253 RPM.
   Gearset Upgrade 2 changes the 8.02:1 stock final-drive ratio to 3.44:1, meaning that the axles are turning at 412 RPM.

   To convert these RPM figures to Torque, we will need to use the standard scientific formula Torque = (HP x 5252) ÷ RPM.

   With the stock final drive, this gives us 20 x 5252, or 105040, ÷ 177, which equals 593 units of axle torque.
   With Gearset Upgrade 1, we have 105040 (the same 20hp and 5252 formula constant, multiplied) ÷ 253.  This gives us 415 units of axle torque, a 30% decrease, or 70% of stock axle torque. 
   With Gearset Upgrade 2, 105040 ÷ 412 gives us 255 units of axle torque, a 57% decrease, or 43% of the stock axle torque.

   So, even though the Gearset Upgrades give us increased axle speeds, we have less torque available.

   If you know your engine horsepower and RPM, you can use your pulley sizes and the above formula to compute torque for any of your gear ratios.

   And, for those fortunate enough to be running the "017 Kit" with a 2.31:1 Final Drive Ratio, your axle is turning at 613 RPM, with a corresponding torque value of 171 units, 29% of stock torque (a 71% decrease).

   I hope this helps.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
3  Mower Building / Setup Help / Driveline / Peerless 700 Transmission Mount-Bolt Pattern on: March 07, 2014, 08:21:36 PM
Heymowers,

   The mount-bolt pattern drawing for the Peerless 700 transmission. This view is the bottom of the transmission.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
4  General / Coffee Shop / Lightweight engine template for engineering your drive system on: February 24, 2014, 11:53:01 AM
Heymowers,

   Once you have your engine built and fit to your chassis, and you need to do the trial-and-error dimensioning and fitting of your drive system, wouldn't it be much easier if you didn't have to muscle around that heavy engine?  Well...now, you don't have to.  This engine-pan-and-crankshaft template that costs next to nothing allows you to save back muscles and sweat while getting your drive system lined out.

   I made this template from an old derelict 28-cube B&S crankshaft and oil pan.  
   After cleaning the oil pan and crankshaft, I took the crankshaft and cut the bottom part of the counterweight off, just above the flange that holds the cam gear in place (Photo 1).  
   After squaring and smoothing the cut, I took an old piece of flat stock I had lying around, in this case, a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate (for further weight reduction) that was 1-3/8" wide and 10" long.  I laid this above two diagonal pan-bolt holes, punch-marked the hole positions, then drilled-and-tapped the holes 5/16"-18 to match the threads of the original oil pan bolts, since two of them would be used to hold the plate over the crankshaft stub.
   I then got four nuts to use as jam nuts, and assembled everything as you see in Photos 2, 3 and 4, leaving just enough air gap (0.010"-0.020") to allow the PTO part of the crankshaft to turn freely (Photo 5).  A couple drops of oil on the pan-bearing journal will keep this "tool" lubricated for a long time.

   Since the pan-to-chassis mounting pattern is standard for almost all engines over 8hp, this template can be used no matter which engine you are installing in your chassis.  Just bolt it to the chassis, install your pulley, and have at it!












Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
5  Mower Building / Setup Help / Driveline / Using transaxles as transmissions on: January 31, 2014, 01:41:07 PM
   I recently had a customer inquire about taking a transmission, removing one-side axle shaft, locking the differential, then putting a sprocket on the remaining axle to drive the rear axle.  I had never had anyone ask that question before.

   In researching an answer for him, I determined that if someone wanting to do this would lock the non-sprocket axle, leave the differential functioning, and put a sprocket on the remaining axle, the sprocket axle would turn twice its normal speed, thereby increasing the output speed of the transaxle.  Since the MSTs, 930s, 800/801s and other transaxles do not have higher-speed gearsets available for them, this would be an interesting way to increase output-shaft speed.  Since there wouldn't be wheels mounted to the axles, shorter axles could be used.  And since the sprocket would be driving the rear axle at the side, just inside the wheel, a single brake disc could be mounted in the center of the axle.

   I realize that there would be a slight weight disadvantage to this setup, but it does open up possibilities.  Your thoughts?  Rule compliance?  Rube Goldberg?

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
6  For Sale / Trannys / Axles / Wheels / Heavy Duty 4-on-4 Wheel Hubs with Keyed 1" Bore on: January 19, 2014, 11:10:31 AM
Heymowers,

   In a few weeks, I will have available some heavier-duty steel 4-on-4 drive-wheel hubs with 1" bore.  These hubs will have a hub length of 4-1/4", keyed full-length (1/4" keyway), a hub wall thickness of 5/16", and the 5/16"-thick wheel-mount flange face will only be set back 3/4" from the outer end of the hub.  The flange will also be mig-welded on both sides of the flange for better structural integrity than the other hubs I have listed.  These hubs will be priced at $47.00 each or $90.00 per pair plus shipping.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
7  Mower Building / Setup Help / Garden Tractor Pulling / Scale model tractor-pulling clip on: January 11, 2014, 09:07:16 PM
Pullers,

   Check out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACkmg3Y64_s .  The pulling segment of this unbelieveable scale-model layout is brief but well worth watching.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
8  General / Coffee Shop / 50 Years of Small Engines on: January 07, 2014, 05:33:36 PM
   April of 2014 will mark the 50th Anniversary of the beginning of my apprenticeship in the small-engine industry.  There was a lawn-mower shop three doors down the street from where I grew up, and I spent so much time digging through their scrap pile after hours looking for something to tinker with that the boss saw me one afternoon and asked, "Why don't you just come work for me?"

   Bob Herbert (aka "Bramble Bob") was the shop owner, and he lived two doors down, between my house and his shop. He actually started the shop in his garage in 1962, then moved to the row-building shop next door when the business outgrew his garage.  Bob was definitely a colorful character.

   The last time I was in my old neighborhood, that shop, Bramble Mower Service, is still in business as a second-generation family operation in eastern Cincinnati. It's in a different location, but still there!  It might even be third-generation by now.

   Even though I had other full-time jobs for 12-1/2 years of that half-century, I continued to work on mowers and related equipment for family and friends, so I was never far from an air-cooled engine.  The last 27 years have been exclusively small engines.  I was even lucky enough to be able to work on "small engines" during my 3-1/2 year Vietnam War Naval enlistment -- they called it "Aviation Ground Support Equipment", and an aircraft carrier at sea is an interesting work station, especially when some of those small engines were jet turbines on the flight deck when we were in the North Atlantic!


   Fifty years has produced many good memories:

Reel mowers; 

Clinton, Reo, Continental and Pincor engines;

"Toilet-seat" gas tanks on the Clintons and Pincors;

Ohlsson-Rice mini 2-cycle engines;

Wisconsin V-4s and inline-twins;

Kohler inline 2-, and 3-cylinder 2-cycle snowmobile engines;

Power Products and West Bend go-kart engines;

McCulloch opposed 4-cylinder 2-cycle small-aircraft engines;

Panzer, Power King, and Bantam tractors;

'T'-head and rear-engine Gravelys;

"Snapping Turtle" push mowers with a curved front skid instead of front wheels;

David Bradley and Remington chainsaws;

The Toro "Whirlwind" mowers;

Jacobsen's pioneering "321" engine, the first commercially-available 2-cycle mower engine to use a 32:1 gas/oil mix ratio instead of the standard 16:1 ratio, hence the name;

The 1961-'62 Sentry Safe-Cut push mower that had a counter-rotating 3-blade drum instead of a reel or a rotary blade.  I bought a new one of these in 1999 and donated it to the B&S PowerHouse Museum, since it had a Model 80206 horizontal-shaft B&S engine;

The King Midget one- and two-seat cars built in Athens, Ohio, available through an ad in Popular Science and Popular Mechanics magazines, that were first powered by Wisconsin, then Kohler;

And how many Heymowers remember the Briggs & Stratton "Sono-Duct" rotary-mower engine with the flywheel on the bottom and a perforated-metal "screen" over the top cooling fins?


   Thanks for letting me share.


Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
9  Mower Building / Setup Help / Driveline / 700 Transmission: Which side output? on: December 11, 2013, 10:55:43 AM
Heymowers,

   To those of you who use the 700 transmission, on which side of the transmission do you prefer to have the output sprocket?

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
10  General / Coffee Shop / Industry-wide mower-racing exposure on: July 27, 2013, 11:09:25 AM
...our group Southern Indiana Lawn Mower Racing Association in New Albany, IN, just across the river from Louisville, KY

Tom,

  Would SILMRA be interested in some outdoor power equipment industry-wide exposure?  This October 23-25 at the Louisville Convention Center on Preston Highway is the GIE+EXPO (Green Industry & Equipment Expo).  Booth space is fairly pricey for strugglers like us but if a group could caravan to the parking lot, do some tailgating, and just leave the mowers displayed on the trailers, it might help.  (Get there early each day to get good parking spots close to the building.)  OPEI (Outdoor Power Equipment Institute), the industry umbrella group, has yet to officially "endorse" mower racing, but their head, Kris Kiser, has been more receptive lately.  OPEI will have a booth inside.  Registering is $10.00/ea. to 9/11, $25.00/ea. 9/12-10/22, and $50.00/ea. on-site.  www.gie-expo.com, or info@gie-expo.com for specific information.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
11  General / Coffee Shop / Why not a "Fits All" Sub-section in the Engine Help Section? on: July 27, 2013, 10:47:55 AM
  Currently in the For Sale > Mower Engines & Parts Section, there is a post entitled "If you could design a muffler..."  I'm not sure why it's in the For Sale Section, but this is an ideal candidate for a Fits All Sub-section in the Engine Help Section, as it could apply to any engine.

   There are numerous similar posts and threads that, for those looking for particular information, sometimes require a good deal of searching.  The member who posted the tip may have been working on a specific engine and included it in that engine's heading even though it would help everyone's engines, but there wasn't a section for everyone's engines.  A Fits All Sub-section in the Engine Help Section would eliminate this and make it easier to find information applicable to any engine.

   Thoughts...?

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
12  For Sale / Trannys / Axles / Wheels / Gearset Upgrade 1 - Peerless 820 Transaxle - for higher-ratio final drive on: July 17, 2013, 05:01:19 PM
   Plan ahead!  By the end of October this year, I should have a limited quantity of my Gearset Upgrade 1s reproduced and available:



   This unique pair of gears (lower pair; foreground in photo) for Peerless 820-Series transaxles increases axle RPM with no increase in engine RPM.  This gearset allows the differential to be kept, while increasing the internal output ratio from 8.02:1 to 5.61:1.

   As noted above, these higher-ratio gears are shown in the foreground of the photo. The small gear has 19 teeth and the large gear has 31 teeth. These gears replace the original 15-tooth 778253 shifter/brake-shaft gear and 35-tooth 778247 intermediate output-shaft gear shown in the photo background (upper pair). The 19-tooth foreground gear will be the now-obsolete Peerless fine-spline P/N 778275; the 31-tooth gear is a custom-manufactured gear; both gears are Made-in-the-USA from SAE 1117 alloy and hardened to Rc 58-62, the same alloy and heat-treat specification used for original Peerless 820 transaxle gears.

   This gear pair will sell for $129.00.

   FREE SHIPPING within the continental U.S.! Item will be shipped USPS Priority Mail Flat-Rate Box Insured within the continental U.S.  UPS Ground may be substituted at Buyer's discretion. International Buyers must contact Seller for shipping. If you are local and wish to pick this up from me, I will deduct an appropriate shipping amount.

   QUESTIONS? I will check this Ad regularly and try to answer all Questions promptly.  Please ask questions via email.  Thanks!

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO; rodromtechgen@yahoo.com
13  Mower Building / Setup Help / Driveline / Any interest in custom-built 820-017 transaxles? on: July 10, 2013, 05:00:50 PM
Heymower Transaxlers --

   I have been thinking about trying to have Peerless build some "new" 820-017s.  I don't know if they would agree but if there is enough interest (profit), they may "resurrect" this obsolete unit.  Normally, once a model is obsoleted, it's gone forever, so we would be entering uncharted waters.  So...I need some questions answered by those who would be interested in these, in order to have some marketing feedback:

1.  The original 017 had the pulley on the bottom and the shift shaft on top.  Would you prefer it this way or would you rather have the pulley on top?

2.  The original 017 was a 5-speed.  I was thinking about a close-ratio 6-speed:
  1st - 3.08:1  (12:37)
  2nd - 2.33:1  (15:35)
  3rd - 1.78:1  (18:32)
  4th - 1.50:1  (20:30)
  5th - 1.17:1  (23:27)
  6th - 1.00:1  (25:25)

3.  Would you want it with or without Reverse?

4.  Would you want it with the original-style "017 Kit" gears in it (2.31:1 Final Drive) and no differential or with my Gearset Upgrade 2 (3.44:1 Final Drive) with the differential?  The differential could be offered locked with my Gearset Upgrade 4 or unlocked.  (Standard 820 Final Drive ratio is 8.02:1.)

5.  If it is offered with the 017 Kit gears and no differential, what length solid axle would be preferred, and with what style ends (keyed with E-clip grooves; keyed, drilled-&-tapped for a retaining bolt; keyed and threaded for a nut; etc.)?  One length and end-design would need to be agreed upon.

   From listening to others in the past, my thought was a top-pulley unit with the short shift shaft; the short 3/4"-diameter input shaft; the 2.31:1 017-Kit gears; no differential; and a 38"-long axle, keyed with the ends drilled-&-tapped for a 3/8" fine-thread bolt.  If I could get them to make a double-ended square-top shift shaft that would stick out the top and bottom, we would be able to "flip" the transaxle at our discretion.

   Price will be dependent on what those interested decide.  Volume will help reduce the price.

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
14  General / Coffee Shop / Got snow? on: March 17, 2013, 12:28:34 PM
   For all of us Heymowers who have endured the recent snows, check out mower racing in Estonia (Eastern Europe) on

Respectfully; Rodney Rom; Rom's Reworks; Butler, MO
 

15  Engine Help / Tecumseh Engines / Tecumseh / Lauson engine revival on: February 09, 2013, 05:07:42 PM
   For those interested in running Tecumseh engines and obtaining parts for same, read the Replies to http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=25651.0
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