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1  Engine Help / Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: intek on: November 26, 2014, 01:06:42 PM
Where are you guys getting the idea of a 60+ cube kohler? No one that I know in mower racing has one of those. I know most of the people who run a Kohler, and did work on probably half of them. I discuss alot with Julian at MWSC and they sell maybe two engines a year that are that extreme, and they aren't to mower racers. The Kohlers don't get the big CI from boring, the material isn't there either. The biggest bore you can put in a Kohler takes a lot of work by boring the sleeves out and running a Nikasil coating directly on the aluminum. Even still they only end up around .100" bigger bore than stock. But that engine combo will run hot and isn't meant to be ran long. It's common in the pulling world but not mower racing. That still doesn't make the engine anywhere close to 60ci, actually not even 50ci.  The big CI gain is done by using a longer stroke billet crank, which can be made for any brand of engine out there. People would be surprised to see that most of the best running Kohlers in lawnmower racing are well under 50ci and have a stock bore, or close to it. Most of Ryker's fastest engines were only 45ci or less.

I don't see an issue with guys running a 49ci Intek block, and neither would most other racers. Even though its starting with a bigger CI, it's still a "small block" engine and ends up with the same result as boring/sleeving while reducing costs for racers. Some people just like to complain. And it's legal in ARMA to run the 49ci block since their rule is 49ci and under factory rated starting point.
2  Engine Help / Kohler Engines / Re: 18hp CH 2 barrel on: November 26, 2014, 08:29:08 AM
 
The 2 Barrels were only on the 30 hp motor both vertical and horizontal.  That intake and carb will bolt up on 18 - 27 hp commands.

That's not true, they actually have two barrel intakes on several of the new 2014/2015 model engines including a 22hp CV682 or CH682, and many other models from 22-27hp as well as the 30hp. But you are correct in that the two barrel intakes will bolt up to any of the 18-30hp engines.
3  Engine Help / Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: intek on: November 24, 2014, 07:59:32 AM
Hey, Rene Don't cheet just take the 44" block stroke crank from 2.890 to 3.000 and bore & sleeve from 3.120 to 3.300! Put's you at 52 ci. I learned that from Kolher guy's There's all kinds of ways to beat tech.   LoL!    Ron

So, Zack.  What do you guy's do about these 58-60 CI. Kolhers  Us Briggs guy's should by 54-61 CI. vanny's ?  Ron.


Ron, maybe your memory is short, but should i remind that you started the Kohler talk in this section and took the thread on dirt road.. I am simply clarifying false information about Kohler engines in a thread taken on that topic. But go ahead and build whatever size engine you want, you won't see the Kohler guys complaining. And good luck building anything better than Zach Kerber or MWSC has already built. A motor like Paul's little 44ci makes more power than a machine and track can handle. That being said, bench racing is one of best parts of this sport  lol
4  Engine Help / Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: intek on: November 24, 2014, 04:15:20 AM
The biggest engine Kohler makes (in the standard small block series) is a 30hp CH/CV750 engine and it is 45.6 CI. A 25hp engine is 44 CI. The 25hp and the 30hp have the exact same block with a 3.27 (83mm) bore size, the only internal difference is the 25hp has a 67mm stroke crank and the 30hp has a 69mm stroke crank. The 25hp and 30hp block can have the same part number.  Buy a 30hp crank for your 25hp engine and you end up with the same result. And as Paul said, to make a 20hp Kohler into a 25hp all it takes is a simple bore job.  So the thought about all the "illegal" kohlers doesn't even make sense.

If you guys look closely at the rules in FXT/Super Mod Twin for example, it says you must START with a certain factory rated HP or CI block, and from there in the US rules it clearly states " Modification to block and heads are open" and in ARMA "Modifications to the block and heads are unlimited." What CI you achieve using your Factory block is only limited by your imagination (or wallet), but go too big and you will have a bucket full of parts after a few races if that.  Most of the Kohlers that are the front runners are actually well under 50ci. The big radical engines run hot and are more prone to failure due to the thin cylinder walls and high compression. An extreme motor is very hard on parts. That's why you see the Nascar and NHRA guys rebuilding their motors after every race, and even then they still have failures. Ryan Kerr's wicked Kohlers won a lot of races at only 45CI. All the top guys in the V-twin classes are making great HP, now it comes down to who has the best handling chassis and can drive it consistent every lap.
5  Engine Help / Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: intek on: November 23, 2014, 04:30:48 PM
The rules say you must start with a certain HP engine block, the rest of the internal mods and ending CI are unlimited. Start with a legal block, bore it, stroke it, or do whatever you want inside, it's legal. There are Intek twins and Tecumseh twins well over 50ci as well as the Kohlers, and all are 100% legal. They all make big power. It comes down to who has spent the most time getting that power to hook up, and the chassis to handle it entering and exiting the corners.  Mike Collins does this very well, and he would be fast with whatever brand of engine he had.

thank you,we gonna nail a cheater next season,but waitn on him to spend big bucks on his motor before we tell him there is a difference in blocks,lol

Why do that? You could potentially lose a racer over a possible misunderstanding.  Just inform him you must start with a 44ci block (or whatever is legal in your club), and then bore/sleeve it to the 49ci or whatever bore, keeping him within the rules.
6  For Sale / Mower Engines & Parts / Re: New Blueprinted Tillotson HR181 racing carbs on: November 23, 2014, 08:53:27 AM
Carbs are SOLD, thread can be removed
7  Engine Help / Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: Intake Manifold Modification Thoughts on: November 21, 2014, 03:59:59 PM
I've done this on several v-twin racing engines with great success. It just takes some patience to get the jetting correct. And I have a new style two barrel carb that actually has a built in accelerator pump  Cool
8  For Sale / Mower Engines & Parts / New Blueprinted Tillotson HR181 racing carbs on: November 21, 2014, 09:21:37 AM
I have a new matched set of blueprinted Tillotson HR181 racing carbs setup for gas. I've been holding on to these rare jewels for a while, but I don't don't have any use for them at this time. I did the machine work and blending/polishing, and the inside of the carbs were setup by the one of the best Tillotson guys out there, Jon Brogden (formerly of EC). They have high flow fuel caps, thinned throttle shafts, filter cups blended into the body and mirror polished, all new internal parts including diaphragms, high flow needle/seats etc.. Drill pattern, pop off pressure, fulcrum arm, and mixture needles are setup for race gas. These carbs are very nice, and are ready to bolt on your racing engine.

This pair would be perfect for an FXT/ Super mod Twin, or individually as carbs on a FXS or Super Mod Single engine. I'll sell the pair for $475 shipped. Or I will sell them individually for $250 each shipped. Pics available to serious buyers.

These will also be listed on eBay next week, so get them for the Kart guys have a chance to. They won't last long
9  Engine Help / Honda and Clone Engines / Re: 420 vertical on: November 14, 2014, 09:51:30 AM
No need for converting, they have been making a 420cc vertical shaft clone engine for a while now. It is a mower engine, so it will be legal about anywhere. Check out the link below


http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRAFTSMAN-420-cc-ENGINE-FOR-RIDING-MOWER-/291289171620?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d23006a4
10  Engine Help / Kohler Engines / Re: 25 HP ENG.MISS on: November 13, 2014, 01:09:43 PM
Make sure the coils are installed the correct way. The old style single wire kohler coils do not have the same orientation on both sides. On one side the kill wire goes down towards the cylinder, and on the other it faces outward.

And yes it is possible to have a collapsed or broken oil ring(s) and the compression rings be fine. Or you could also have a partially blown head gasket between the lifter valley and cylinder causing the oil problem.
11  Engine Help / Kohler Engines / Re: 25 HP ENG.MISS on: November 13, 2014, 11:50:40 AM
Does the engine have the old style single wire solid state coils, or the multi-wire coils with the smart spark ignition module?
12  Engine Help / Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: What oil on: October 29, 2014, 09:50:24 AM
Brad Penn Grade 1 racing oil in 10w-30 is what i use.  You may not have a failure using other oils, but a high performance motor oil like Brad Penn has anti wear additives and high Zinc (ZDDP) levels and will give added protection to all moving parts, especially the camshaft. I've seen less than .001" wear on the cam lobes after two seasons of racing turning 9,000 rpm+ and high spring pressure levels.  If you can afford a $3000-$5000 racing engine, you should be able to afford a good racing oil.
13  General / Coffee Shop / Re: Cooper head gaskets on: October 28, 2014, 07:58:40 AM
Copper is one of the few metals that anneals differently. I still just let my gaskets heat/cool naturally in the engine and re-torque the heads in cycles.

Here is a link to the info George quoted,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_%28metallurgy%29
14  For Sale / Mower Engines & Parts / Re: New 49ci Intek Two Barrel Carburetors on: October 24, 2014, 05:13:44 PM
One carb sold, one left!
15  General / Coffee Shop / Re: Cooper head gaskets on: October 24, 2014, 10:50:39 AM
Owen, check with the place you buy your gaskets from. Some copper heads gaskets are already annealed when you buy them, and some companies don't recommend annealing their gaskets due to the engines repeated heating and cooling over time. Just make sure do as Travis mentioned and re-torque the heads after heat cycles during the breaking period.  If you have o-ringed heads or block and true surfaces (near perfect), it's not required to use any form of sealer.
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