Well i came across a picture of Ed's new racing mower for 2015...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Poloron-Fleetwood-Lawn-Tractor-w-8-hp-Briggs-Stratton-motor-/121575094843?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4e70ba3b

That is why. The two barrel intake/carb setup comes on the 20hp and up engines.

20hp Vertical Model: 351777-1036-A1
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=Briggs+and+Stratton&mn=351777-1036-A1

20hp Horizontal Model: 351447-0103-01
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=Briggs+and+Stratton&mn=351447-0103-01

Al Hodge at Performance V-twins is the only other person I know of who sells drop in aftermarket pistons for the 4.262" long rods. He has some Wiseco and Arias pistons, but they aren't cheap. Call him at 704-291-7825 and tell him what block you are using (bore size) and your rod length.

Owen, in performance engines we normally run .0008" - .0012" clearance on the wrist pin but i have heard of some people using .002" .003" for more oil retention in certain applications depending on the type of oiling system used. I would say no less than .0008" and no more than .0015"

You have the spacer installed in the correct location now. The horizontal engines come from the factory with the spacer between the intake and the elbow, and no spacer between the elbow and carb because the idle adjuster screw is built into the elbow. Since you aren't running a stock vanguard horizontal carb, you can also put a spacer between the elbow and carb to space it away from the flywheel for more room to reach your adjuster.

George, this email was sent to me from Zach Kerber Machine,

"Zach is in the shop working and is not talking on the phone. Please order what you need on the website and in the payment option you can click on phone order and I will email you a ticket you can then pay with your pay pal account. Or just email what you need and I can make you a ticket.

Thank you

Office manager"

Let me clarify, when i said don't bother calling Zach, it meant he is busy and is not talking on the phone. It is best to reach him by email. Nothing negative was expressed or implied by my post.

 

Really? Maybe you should go back and read what i posted.. My post was on topic and gave Dennis the info he was looking for. After all the other stuff that gets posted on this forum that is Actually off topic and makes no sense, my post gets deleted?... Ok

The first super mod machine i built back in 2008/2009 was built with the 4" offset. Problem was as Mike stated above. With a solid axle and no suspension you have to unload the left rear tire so it will turn. Adding that weight to the left side was great for keeping it from turning over, but it can cause the machine to push through the corner. I ended up reducing the offset in the front and rear after a few races. All of the super mod chassis i have built since were built with no offset in the chassis itself, and what offset we did use was done by moving the tires. 

This one is sold! I will have more available in a few weeks.

$325 plus shipping.

Wayne, I have done several of the Kohler single heads. I have custom oversized stainless steel valves for them, and a valve spring package for the flat tappet and roller cams.

I have a Brand new 49ci Intek V-twin Block, Pan, and set of Pistons with rings for sale.  $350 plus shipping

You can run 4 stock steel push rods, or the new style larger diameter aluminum vanguard push rods. Both work very well and are inexpensive. And im not sure what you mean by "ec long rods", because they don't make vanguard rods. ARC Racing, PVT, and Rocket Ron makes billet rods for the vanguard. They all can be made to work well inside your engine and each use a different piston combo. The ARC rods and 40ci intek pistons will work fine for what you are doing.

If you are on tight budget, you probably shouldn't be running an "Outlaw" class, or a Supermod single/twin. That is what the lower classes are for.. The outlaw style classes are supposed to be for experienced racers and builders only. The racers in this category are not afraid to spend big money on what they enjoy and do what it takes to win.

Mike, I would love to see a class ruled this way. No gray area and straight forward. Plus, it would be easy to tech the machines and eliminate any reason for complaining for the majority (some people will still complain no matter what happens).

A high quality aftermarket valve is worth the money for the increased flow and the insurance of it not destroying your engine. If you can't find any for your engine, have some custom valves made. Briggs valves are not high quality and will eventually break in a high rpm racing engine, and when it does it will likely ruin most of the motor. Just send the valves you have to Manley Performance in NJ, and they can copy your valves in a nice stainless or titanium, or make them custom to your specs. Just make sure you know exactly what you want to order if you want them made different than the stock valves (head diameter, lock grove location, overall length etc.) Last time I had them made the stainless steel swirl polished stem valves were only around $40 per valve, and i believe there is a discount if you order more than 5 valves at a time.