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1  Engine Help / Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: vanny help!!!!!!!!!! on: September 29, 2014, 09:46:43 PM
I run .006 intake, .008 exhaust on all my race engines.

Lester
2  General / Coffee Shop / Re: Lincoln welders on: September 28, 2014, 02:24:50 PM
I believe the 140 pro used to be called the 140T for tab. Has settings a,b,c,d for heat range. The 140 c is for continuous. The heat setting is fully variable from 30 amps to 140 and can be changed while welding. Both have cast aluminum wire feed where the older 140T had a plastic drive. Also the 140c is set up for an optional spool gun. I have owned several Lincoln mig welders but if your garage has 220 I highly recommend getting a 220 welder. It is unusual to not have 220 in a garage unless it is attached and even then it is well worth it to run a 220 outlet to the garage.


Lester
3  Engine Help / Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: Model 31 AVS on: September 24, 2014, 02:34:11 PM
There really is no need to discard the AVS pan. You can buy a bushing for the lower crank that will allow use of a 28 crank in an AVS pan. Easy to do.

Lester
4  General / Coffee Shop / Re: ARMA MXR-JR on: September 22, 2014, 11:05:26 PM
I do need some clarification for the probability of going forward with this class. We have our rules meeting next month.

Lester
5  General / Coffee Shop / ARMA MXR-JR on: September 20, 2014, 10:33:54 AM
I understand there was a test for this class this year. Our club NNYLMR had a record year for juniors with on average 7-8 drivers and more in the wings. We have several who have multi year experience but will still be too young for other classes (under 16). I honestly don't think they are quite ready for Mod XR but what we are looking at is a JR/SS class and not the ARMA ss but the same chassis as a ModXR with a stock flathead governed at 3650 and open gear. Would be a bit slower than a ModXR yet a good piece faster than Juniors. We are also looking to move our SS class to a prepared chassis class by offering this configuration to run evenly against our existing SS chassis. The JR/SS would be ARMA prepared chassis only and our NNYLMR SS ineligible for new JR/SS. Any thoughts from the powers that be within ARMA or otherwise?

Lester
6  General / Coffee Shop / Re: 700 tranny shift keys on: September 05, 2014, 07:33:22 AM
Evan My guess is your transmission gears are wore. Take a close look at your gears where the shift key engages. One side will be nice and square without any wear or nicks. The otherside will be damaged. You can only replace the keys a few times without replacing the gears. Too bad you can't run the gears the other way around to get more life out of them.


Lester
7  Mower Building / Setup Help / Driveline / Re: gear ratio info on: August 07, 2014, 10:45:36 AM
here is the easiest way to get to 8 to 1. transmission - 700. Gear set 25/25. Axle sprocket 40. Transmission sprocket 15. Engine and transmission pulleys both the same exact size (4/4, 5/5, 6/6, etc).


Lester
8  General / Newcomers / Re: c/p class clarification on: August 05, 2014, 12:13:17 PM
There is only a 3/4" plastic spacer/insulator between the carb and head. As long as its a Kohler manufactured carb, you are good to go.

Same holds true for the Kawasaki FC540V.

Lester
9  General / Coffee Shop / Re: Tillotson HR Questions on: July 29, 2014, 12:38:12 PM
I agree with the under load tuning. I remember it was the only way to adjust them on a snowmobile was to ride them down a good straight away and tune to the highest rpm then 1/8 turn rich to keep from burning the piston. Now on the question of a remote fuel pump, should I use one and what modifications would I do to the carb? Do I unhook the pulse from the carb to use on the remote pump or do I run both pumps?

Lester
10  General / Coffee Shop / Re: thumb throttle on: July 29, 2014, 08:56:01 AM
Just give him a centrifugal clutch. If anyone has a problem with that they are heartless and don't belong in mower racing.
Just my opinion Wink

We would allow the same in our club (I'm assuming  Wink ) but use as low  of a engagement as possible. It's one thing to allow something that is otherwise not allowed for this reason but to use the allowance for a performance gain would not garner much support.

Lester
11  General / Coffee Shop / Tillotson HR Questions on: July 29, 2014, 08:15:02 AM
Well I remember from my youth having snowmobiles with these carbs on them. Not the best carb but easy to tune and repair. I'm running one now on my OHV single and I have a few questions. 1. Why are all the carbs I see used on mowers mounted upside down compared to snowmobiles? 2. The carb I have has an external pulse (3 plate). I've been told to lose the pump and feed it with an external pulse pump. any truth? (using intake pulse - know how to do that correctly) 3. I have rebuilt the carb and it seems to work ok usually. It doesn't tune like it did when we would tune 2 strokes with them. I guess I need a lesson on tuning these things. I'll take all the help I can get.

Lester
12  Engine Help / Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: nikki two barrel carb problems on: July 24, 2014, 08:43:20 AM
Fuel is naturally pulled to the bottom cylinder by gravity so it will run richer than the top. So they use a smaller jet to the bottom cylinder. At higher rpm it is less prevalent so equal jetting works as well. There are other things that can be done to take advantage of this extra fuel....

Lester 
13  Engine Help / Briggs Flathead / Re: 18HP Opposed Twin Performance Upgrade Path on: July 14, 2014, 06:09:20 PM
I also have a bent Geinger I'd let go of CHEAP!!! lol

Best thing to do is to copy the pressure lube block. I had a block that was fully ported and clearanced for the 46 crank and I used a 40 base for my pressure lube sump. I just looked at where the oil passage was and tried my best to copy it.

Lester
14  Engine Help / Briggs Flathead / Re: 18HP Opposed Twin Performance Upgrade Path on: July 10, 2014, 08:54:17 PM
Or center drill your splash lube cam and machine the pump drive.

Lester
15  Engine Help / Briggs Flathead / Re: 18HP Opposed Twin Performance Upgrade Path on: July 09, 2014, 09:25:51 PM
It can be done. But if you want serious power out of an opposed the real ticket is to purchase a new block from Briggs. You can still get a special 46 cube block that was built with 31 cube pistons and a 42 cube crank. It never came as a pressure lube so the oil passages must be drilled. Then add a pressure lube 46 cube long stroke crank. Now you have some serious cubic inches to play with. I personally never built this engine but did assist a fellow racer in doing one. I also showed him how to drill the oil passages. It is actually only one long passage that hits the top of the cam and exits into the top journal Iit will exit above the journal and just under the top seal). Then a short one to connect to the top journal. This oil passage feeds the top rod and top crank journal.

Lester
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