I'm just wanting to complain a little bit. I don't like hay bales around the track. I think they are dangerous. In the years that I've been racing I think I've seen more wrecks from mowers hitting hay bales than from any other reason. I agree that sometimes they are needed in certain places to protect the driver from obstacles around the track, or to protect the spectators from a runaway mower, BUT I think they should be as far away from the race track as possible, instead of right around the edge of the track. On Sunday I was racing in Maryland. I was wide open, just a gettin' it, about half way down the back stretch. I didn't think I was as close to the bales as I was and clipped one with the right rear tire. They sucked me right in and spun me around. I went from wide open to a dead stop in about 10 feet. The bales were tightly packed and pretty heavy (I know, cause I helped put them there!) I stayed on the mower and it stayed on its wheels, but any other mower, other than a Super Mod, and I would have been tumbling and flipping out through the weeds. So, what I'm trying to say is, if you need to have hay bales, or any other type of barrier around your track, try to keep them as far away as possible. It will make it a lot safer for everybody.

I was thinking about putting a Briggs ohv intake valve in a Honda head. The Briggs valve has a little larger head. The honda stem is 6.5mm and the Briggs stem is 5.97mm (.235in). The OD of the Honda guide is .476in. Does anybody know where I can get a bronze guide, .476 OD, .235 ID (or smaller) and at least 1-1/4" long?

I took a few pictures of the bridge I make to go along with the roller rockers. It keeps the rocker studs from pulling out of the head. I've been running dual EC springs on both valves with this setup and haven't had any problems, yet. I got the idea from Tommy (Huffy047). I believe he makes and sells them if anybody wants one.

 

Has anybody that's running an AVS single cylinder broken a crank gear yet? My son broke one in his over the weekend. They look pretty chinsy, and they are pretty thin, because the AVS crank has a lot bigger journal on the bottom where it goes through the oil pan and the OD of the gear is the same as a regular gear. I think maybe they are powdered metal, with a thin steel band fused to the inside circumference. Does anybody make a steel gear to fit the AVS motor?

Here are some pictures of the new pro-x / fx build I've been working on.

On a Briggs OHV single do you use the push rod guide plate or not when installing roller rockers?

On my new mower, its a mod-x or CP, I have a 28 OHV single. It has the ARC flywheel, Denso starter, Precision cam & the ARC brass weights on a flattie crank. I probably ran it for about 15 minutes, total time, the other day until it broke a rocker. I replaced it, but when I revved it up it vibrated pretty bad. George told me to pull it back apart and check my brass weights, to see if they came loose. They were fine, but my compression release on the cam was broken. The halfmoon shaped weight was broken off close to the pivot pin. It looked like when the motor started and the weight flew out it was hitting the brass weight on the crank and thats what broke it off. The spring on the compression release was holding the pin with the round side out, so the lifter was opening the intake valve every compression stroke, even after it was running. I think thats why it was vibrating when I revved it up. I removed the complete compression release assembly and put it back together. It starts when it's cold, but I don't know if it will after it gets hot, I didn't get a chance to run it yet. Did anyone else ever try that, or has anyone ever had the compression release hit the brass counter weight?