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Messages - mr.smitty_78

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Garden Tractor Pulling / Re: Tractor pulling Links
« on: October 23, 2010, 11:41:48 am »
Hello I thought Id add some info if its ok. The South Kentucky Hot Rod Association website (skhr) that you provided is still up however the pulling group has been disbanded or gone for smoe time. 3 to 4 years is what I was told but there are others like Commonwealth Pullers, Sugar Creek Pullers, Grayson County Pulling Association, North Central Kentucky, and of course NQS those are most of the pulling groups in Kentucky. I just didnt want anyone to build to SKHR tech and not be able to pull with them. I do believe that some of the BFA Pullers still pull but youll have to contact them and see. You can find a direct link to the BFA store from the SKHR website and in the contact us section contact them to find out its been a while since I talked to them but they were the ones that informed me about the skhr. Ive found if you build to NQS tech thet most of the groups in KY have very close to the same rules for most of there classes with the exception being the tires and the way the weights are hung. Thanks Josh

Tires / Re: Tire Help Needed
« on: October 19, 2010, 12:27:40 pm »
Hello Im going to PM you about them if thats ok

Garden Tractor Pulling / Re: Best pulling tractor?
« on: October 19, 2010, 11:33:39 am »
No sweat I wasnt trying to argue neither sometimes discussions in forums and even at pulls seem that way but they are not always as they seem. There are pros and cons of using both different types shaft and belt but there is one common pro to both of them they are both built to have fun with. I completely understand what you mean about cubs being al you have really built and supporting them that is the same with me and the belts thats what I started with simply because I couldnt afford a cub so me and the other belt guys have either figured out a way to make them work or have quit playing pretty much. Any way as I said not problem thanks Josh

Tires / Re: Tire Help Needed
« on: October 19, 2010, 11:24:14 am »
I would take a set of slicks if I could get them I could cut some chevron cuts in them or some straight bars but I will need a set for a 5in diameter wheel the wheels are 5x145 douglas I picked them up for 35.00 and they are practically brand new the only little bit of wear or scratching at all is a very small amount on the lip. I appreciate all the help and all the future help I still have no Idea where to get any at though. Thanks Josh

Tires / Tire Help Needed
« on: October 18, 2010, 01:11:53 am »
Hello I have been building another pulling tractor for the last little bit and I have attempted to go a different route this time than the usual narrow front wheels and tires. I recently bought a set of 5in Dia by 145mm wide polished douglas wheels. I am looking for the smallest tire I can mount to it. I wanted a turf tread or 5 rib style but so far all I have really found is kart tires. I have never used metric wheels on aything like this so I thought Id ask for some help. I figured about an 11x6x5 tire would fit but wasnt real sure and had no Idea where to find these tires except on ebay. If some one could enlighten me as to what sizes are available the smallest that would fit also as to where I could get them brand doesnt matter but price does Id like to get out as cheap as possible. They donot have to be new either so if anyone has a used set to sell pm me about them and Ill get back with you thanks Josh

Garden Tractor Pulling / Re: Best pulling tractor?
« on: October 15, 2010, 11:49:12 pm »
I donot recall starting any type of arguement with anyone I was simply stating my oppinion if I gave you the impression I was trying to be smart or trying to start an arguement I appoligize. I was just giving my oppinion as every one else around her usaually does. I simply stated that I like the belt drives because they are cheaper easier to com buy in a lot of areas, and that they were less popular. I also just tried to say that any one can buy bolt on parts and build something to compete with others that aplly the same bolt on parts. I think if you fab something up your self or create something totally different and then go out and compete its alot easier to be proud of something like that than it is to just buy it bolt it up and take it to the track. Just an oppinion but every now and then someone reads to much into stuff and takes offence and if i offended you I am sorry. Josh

Garden Tractor Pulling / Re: help
« on: September 16, 2010, 10:17:14 pm »
You can convert the hydro to a gear drive fairly simply all the wholes and everything are already there just one of two things is wrong either the wrong thing is there or nothing is there. Most of the clucth stuff you can buy after market but you will have to hunt a few things like the clutch hanger for example and of course a 3sp unless you want to buy one of them from midwest or something. The easiest way to do it and figure up what youll need is to get a manual and parts book for the gear drive model cub you have. Remember that most all Narrow Frames intechange parts from one another as do the wide frames. Now a trans from any model interchanges but other parts will not. IE the clutch hanger from a 1200 is not going to fit a 106. PS all the odd numbers are Hydros and the evens are Gear drive. Thanks Josh

Garden Tractor Pulling / Re: Any Wheel Horse Pullers here?
« on: September 16, 2010, 10:08:28 pm »
I dont pull any whell horses but they do work well in the S/A class and lesser Classes. I know alot of guys that do run them as I run belt drives but no horses yet just masseys and some sears stuff that I need to do something with. The one Im wirking on now is a hybrid I like to say Massey with a sears 6sp trans (which is almost the same thing as the 8sp in the wheelhorses as the also have 8 gears all together) Aslong as you arent in the really high Horse power classes then your belt shouldnt be a problem as long as you have good springs and check it before and after every event or as I do every pass or two and always always carry a spare or two. Dont wann be counted out for something as stupid as a broken belt or beat for a worn one. Thanks Josh

Garden Tractor Pulling / Re: Briggs Opposed twins questions
« on: September 16, 2010, 09:55:38 pm »
I dont know that much about the briggs opposed or any of the twins really but in the yahoo groups theres a group called GardenTractorPulling and another Called BeltDrivePullingTractors I know there are plenty of guys on there that will do more than answer your questions some may even let you come check out there setups and show you some tips and tricks. If I knew more I would help but as Ive found out allthough there are some similarities a race engine and pulling engine are two very different things. But these racing guys have tried about everything with these and Im not saying dont listen Im just saying get input from both sides and then compille it togetther and find the common things and go from there. If that makes sence. I hope this helps you Thanks Josh

Garden Tractor Pulling / Re: Best pulling tractor?
« on: September 16, 2010, 09:46:01 pm »
Every One preaches cub pretty much every where and mainly because its less of a headache and there are so much things available that you can build one bullet proof. Now my self I prefer the belt drives there easier to come by for a lower price and there were more produced as not just one or two companies built them. I have 3 Masseys a 70 MF10 a 74 MF12 and the one Im working on now is a 73 MF8 with a Sears Trans Thats been moved back 4in and a Straight cart styyle front axle thats been moved forward 3 in my wheel base is 50.5in. I ve got a front weight bar that gives me an overall length of 72in. Set of wheelie bars with greasable rebuildable dumpster wheels, Grant Steering Wheel,  5in Tach, Custom built gas pedal to match the fuel pedal, Two belts to make gearing easier and help keep the slip stopped, of course an adjustable hitch, Vogel Manufacturing VM09  26x12x12 Professional Pulling Tires on the rear on 12x12 4x8 offset polished VM wheels. Tractor Pan seat, underbelly bar under trans box ect. The same work goes into these asto what goes into a cub and they work well in Stock, modified, 30cube, hotstock, S/A ect Classes. Now when you get into Super stock and Pro Stock all that power is hard to get to the ground due to belt slip. To much power and not enough tension. Im not saying it cant be made work in those classes Im just saying I aint going to throw dollars at one and then have a pretty and loud smoke machine. I build the belt drives for a few reasons there cheap, easy to come by, there still garden tractors and alot came with cast engines, and since I run S/A there Ideal for me and any other poor man out there wanting to have fun be competitive and not break the bank to bad. Where Im at in KY the Masseys Wheel Horses Sears ect. When there set up right pull just as good as the cubs and place and win quite often. But as some said and I did aswell if you wanna build a bullet proof rig then cub has an infinate supply of aftermarket stuff and a large following aswell. Thanks Josh

Briggs Flathead / Briggs 28cu Flattie Valve cover Question
« on: July 23, 2010, 12:52:19 pm »
Hello guys Im woundering if I can do away with the tube between the carb and the valve cover Im going to make a valve cover out of a piece of aluminum I was wantin to just drill a whole in it and run a peice of tubing out to either a breather or to a catch can. I will be running an electric fuel pump so the vaccum is not needed I wouldnt think. Im not sure whatll happen so Thought Id ask for advice before I do it Thanks Josh

Driveline / Re: Need Help Figuring belt size
« on: July 20, 2010, 12:21:04 am »
I would use an old deck belt but I dont have any layin around How accurate is the way you measure them rooster. Thanks

Briggs Flathead / Re: Dual springs and Billet Retainers
« on: July 16, 2010, 07:19:38 pm »
Hello if its a flatty heres what I do. Get a 11 or 12mm open boxed end wrench wrap black tape on the sharp edges of the opened end. Turn the crank by hand untill the valve your working on is opened completely then I put the wrench underneath of it and pry up a little bit. The with my other hand I turn the crank until the  lifter goes back into the block all the way. Then with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer I tap on the valve and the reainers will eventually fall out then you can pull the valve out and then slide the spring and bottom of the retainer out past the lifter with it still compressed. Thats how us poor boy do it we dont have the luxury of valve spring compressors. Lol   

Driveline / Need Help Figuring belt size
« on: July 16, 2010, 02:19:46 pm »
Hello guys and girls I am nearing the point of figuring out what size belts I need. So I have a couple questions concerning this. My first question is what is the best way to measure for the belt dimensions I have 1 of the two belts off of my tractor that were original but It doesnt matter cause Ive changed the pulleys out and there all different dimesions Ive also Moved the trans  back 4in its not the stock trans either its from a different tractor so had to move it back and do plenty of cutting and restrengthening to make it fit. I know that no belt I have will even come close to fitting so Im trying to figure the best way to measure for one I was also woundering how the red belts are measured from the inner length or the outter length. I thought of a way I might could do it but Im looking for a better way the way I do it is hard to get accurate any way Thanks  for the help in advance Josh

Briggs Flathead / Re: Gilson Rear Engine
« on: June 09, 2010, 10:11:50 pm »
Yes its orange but doesnt have a 700 on it. The axle is almost liike a straghit axle with a sprocket on it. Then is has a gear box seperate from the rear which is 6sp with rev. The gear box has a pulley on the input and a sprocket on the output. The drive belt its self is one of the shortest Ive ever seen. Its an odd little feller. I thought it would make a good start to a race project. I may start on it sometime and then again I may end up selling it due to the fact that as of now I dont have much time to fool with it Its in very good shape no dents and even the deck is in great shape with little to no rust and if there is any rust at all on the entire mower it would be very light surface rust. I couldnt belive the shape it was in when I saw it it was well taken care of.

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