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Messages - Old Goat

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31
Coffee Shop / Re: 1/5 mile track
« on: August 22, 2012, 10:15:15 pm »
Most of us are running Hoosier or Burris tires on our Super Mods.  I don't know what the speed rating is on them, but we have never had any tire issues. We ran at Selinsgrove, PA a couple of times, last year. It's 1/5 mile. That's where the guy with the radar gun said he clocked Joel at (I believe he said) 76 mph.
We ran at Shippensburg, PA twice so far this year. It's 1/5 mile. Then we ran at the Stonybrook track in Stoystown, PA a couple of weeks ago. It's a tri-oval and the track owner told me it was 1/4 mile. AND, I lifted and even used a little brake going into most of the turns at all three of the tracks.
I haven't seen any of us have any motor problems on the big tracks, as long as you get your gearing right. I think I've been somewhere around 3.5 to 1, from the engine to the rear axle, with the 12-9x6 Hoosiers on the rear. I don't have a tach, but I don't think I spin my vanny any more than about 8500 rpms.
Again, it's lots and lots of fun, but you have to make sure everything on your mower is tight and right, and when your racing don't go any faster than what you can control. If you loose it, at these speeds, it aint gonna be pretty!

32
Coffee Shop / Re: 1/5 mile track
« on: August 21, 2012, 10:09:53 pm »
We have a couple of 1/5 mile kart tracks we run on. We just ran on a 1/4 mile tri-oval track 3 weeks ago. It is a LOT OF FUN!!!  :woohoo: But you better have a mower that handles well and you gotta leave a little extra room between yourself and the other mowers. We've been clocked at 75 + mph on a 1/5 mile track with the Super Mod Twins, and at that speed, things happen quick!

33
Coffee Shop / Re: How far do some of you drive to races? Some serious thoughts.
« on: July 19, 2012, 07:32:37 pm »
Here is another way of looking at it....

I have a track in one of my fields that our local club races on about once a month. I start a couple of days before the race and I probably spend at least 12 hours, probably more, and use a fair amount of gas, working up the track, picking rocks, watering it, running it in and getting everything ready so we can race, each time we have a race. I'm not complaining, I enjoy doing it and I love to race. I'm just saying this because not everybody realizes how much work goes into a lot of the tracks that we race on. It is a lot easier for me just to load up the mowers and drive 3 or 4 hours to race. :D

We also have about 4 or 5 nice tracks that we race on that are less than a 2 hour drive from here.  :woohoo:  I guess everybody that likes to race ought to move to south central PA!!!  :lol: :D

34
Coffee Shop / Re: kids stock class
« on: July 19, 2012, 07:05:27 pm »
Here's what we do, and the kids love them!

MINI JR class rules 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This class is for children 12 years of age or less. A parent or guardian must be present whenever the child is on the track. The mower must be a small frame, maximum 38" wheelbase, and the driver must be able to reach and operate all of the controls. Safety is of utmost importance in this class. All drivers must demonstrate that they can safely drive and control the mower before they will be allowed to race other mowers. This will be determined by the child going out on the track by themself and making laps. All the other racers will watch them and vote to determine whether or not the child can race and how fast they can go. This can also be done again, at any time, if someone doesn't look safe.

1) 38" maximum wheelbase, 38" maximum width. NO OFFSET

2) 6" maximum rim height

3) 4" minimum frame height. Nothing should hang down closer than 2" off the ground

4) Mower seat can be any height

5) Engine must be stock, with exception of air filter and exhaust, and must be 8HP or less.

6) Engine must be governed and a stock throttle must be used

7) Ratio from engine to rear wheel can be no less than 8 to 1 in the highest gear the shifter can be moved to.

8 ) Clutch pedal must be held down to make the mower move. When the pedal is released the clutch MUST disengage. The brake must work and must be a seperate pedal. No centrifugal clutches.

9) Front axle must be welded or bolted in place. Steering can be modified for safety

10) Must have running boards, so the childs feet can not get on the ground and run over by the rear tires.

11) Rear bumpers are mandatory. The top of the bumper must be within 2" of the top of the seat and cover most of the rear tires. No sharp edges.

12) A small front bumper is optional, but must be made so it will not get tangled with another mower. No sharp edges and it can be no wider than the inside of the front tires.

13) Nerf bars are optional, but they can not stick out past the outside edge of the tires.

14) Mower must have a working tethered kill switch.

15) Drivers must wear all of the safety equipment anytime they are on a running mower.

35
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: Crankcase vent on Vanny blowing like a fog machine
« on: June 27, 2012, 09:43:01 pm »
Quote from: Huffy044 on June 26, 2012, 08:56:08 pm
If through the oil fill, bad rings or ring seal.

On an ohv motor, a head gasket will do the same, if it's leaking across into the pushrod galley, (which is where they seem to always blow).

36
Post your Pics! / Re: Building a race track
« on: May 29, 2012, 09:11:46 pm »
What's the matter with everybody :confused: If you make your mowers so they handle, it's fun going fast! :wow: I think it's too short! Longer is better! The most fun I ever had racing mowers was on a couple of the 1/5 mile kart tracks we occasionally run on. :D

37
Chassis / Re: MTD handling issues.... any input would be great
« on: May 14, 2012, 06:37:30 pm »
Quote from: Huffy044 on May 14, 2012, 11:08:39 am
You need more caster in the LF, looks to me like you were pushing badly. Place the mower on a flat surface and turn the steering wheel to the left, see if you have clearence under the L.R? Only get it to come up a little as you want to set it back down as you are coming out of the cornor. My 2 cents

I agree with Tommy. But if your caster is somewhere in the 10 degree range already, you can lower the LF spindle or raise the RF spindle to put more weight on the LF and RR. Ask Mike about it. It worked for him on his Supermod. If it bicycles in the turns, usually adding more air pressure to the RR will help. On my Pro-x on a track with lots of grip I run 20 to 25 psi. in my RR. And don't feel too bad about not keeping up to Kent. When his mower is working good, there aren't very many people in the world that can keep up to him through the turns!  :D ..... AND..... it  would probably help if you tighten the carb bolts  :badgrin: :D

38
Tires / Re: setting the bead
« on: May 11, 2012, 12:16:22 am »
Will the smell put you to sleep? :D

39
Coffee Shop / Re: Mowbetter!!! Merchandise ?
« on: May 11, 2012, 12:12:13 am »
Is he waving, or preparing for his flying dismount?  :D

40
Chassis / Re: arms burnin
« on: May 09, 2012, 12:42:13 am »
There are lots of posts on here about ackerman. From the chassis section, go up to the search bar in the top right corner and type in "ackerman"

41
USLMRA Races / Re: An observation.
« on: May 09, 2012, 12:21:58 am »
Quote from: George Herrin on May 08, 2012, 06:27:20 am
AMEN WHY!!!! if they are so dern fast run the faster classes with them then we will see where ya truly match up.

Don't get too awful fired up, George! It might be partly my fault. I've raced with him a couple of times so far this year. I always felt kinda sorry for him and let off a little when I go by him. I didn't want to blow him off of his mower!!! :D :lol: :woo:

42
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: valves
« on: April 30, 2012, 08:29:14 pm »
Same.

43
Honda and Clone Engines / Re: gx340 vs 31 b& s
« on: April 18, 2012, 09:29:12 pm »
Steve, the Honda is a horizontal shaft and the 31 Briggs is vertical, unless you turn it on its side, like I did. A horizontal shaft engine with a jackshaft will make a little more power than an identical vertical shaft motor with a tranny or a 90 degree box, because of the extra drag created by a tranny or a 90 box. With that being said, the Briggs I used to run made more power on the bottom end than the GX390. The 390 has a little more on the top end. On most of the tracks we run on, having more bottom end to get you up out of the turns, will help you out more than having a little more top end. I think I would prefer the Briggs, IF I could keep the cranks from breaking! The Honda seems to be more reliable. I am running a precision cam, 1.2 to 1 ratio roller rockers, ARC rod, forged piston and stainless (stock size) valves, with EC double valve springs and chromoly push rods in my GX390, and a lot of time spent on the head. I also run a Walbro LMT carb and a home made intake on it.

44
Post Your Video / Re: shipensburg single mix feature
« on: April 14, 2012, 11:54:26 pm »
Quote from: Flipper on April 14, 2012, 08:23:53 am
Just to clarify........that's Old Goat on a Super Mod Open.....VS....Stock, Mod-XR's(580, 844, 839,840 & Alli's J/P)

Now, Flipper, don't get all carried away!  It's a legal Pro-x or FX .... but I agree, it wasn't quite fair... you guys all had bigger motors than my little 13hp!  :pffftt: :P :D

I really like that track! I hope we can go back some more!

45
Racing Mower Builds / Re: Start of the Kieffer Racing Super Mod Twin
« on: April 08, 2012, 10:12:33 am »
What happened to the seat, in the second picture?  :confused:   I can't see it!!!  :lol: :D :P

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