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Messages - willenglish

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1
Might be one of those motors that wont last long enough to NEED an oil change.

2
Coffee Shop / Re: Stroker motor
« on: January 26, 2015, 04:16:35 pm »
One would not generally actually move the wristpin hole physically...although it could be done. You would find a piston with a higher wrist pin location...or in most mower motors case....a aftermarket piston with a SMALLER wristpin itself...the Briggs .490 wristpin size is very popular....almost standard today.

3
Coffee Shop / Re: Fxt or super modified twin
« on: January 25, 2015, 04:47:43 pm »
I will tell you what...fastest mower ive EVER witnessed was at the USLMRA Ellerbe Nationals last year...A Ronnie McLain built, Rex Crouch Jr. driven BRIGGS OHV single intek was the quickest mower ever to hit the track...turning 9.40's before it suffered a camshaft failure. They were getting it ALL....and putting it ALL down on the track too. Never seen or heard anything like it...just burping pure horsepower. The quickest super mod twins were well in the 10's. So if you make power and HOOK it up....a single will GO!

4
Coffee Shop / Re: Who would build it?
« on: January 25, 2015, 01:49:28 pm »
Im not a big fan of rules myself...but there is a lot of dissent and argument about what even constututes a "mower". There is one group that wants a mower to remain a mower...but the genie is well and truly out of the bottle on this school of thought.Then there are those that  want a truly unlimited class. As racing has progressed...it has became very  apparant that at the level of competition today...most OEM mower componants are NOT up to the task of being even marginally reliable. This list includes flywheels, wheels, brakes, transmissions, every single steering componant,  and even reinforced  OEM chassis. That dosnt leave much that is actually "mower"....about all thats left mower...is body parts...and in my opinion...thats enough mower for me. As the sport progresses...even less mower parts will be used. Thats just the way racing...any racing is. One question...why such an aversion to round tubing? Its much more available...and less expensive than square or rectangular chromoly tubing? Chassis are always going to be fabricated...round tubing could actually SAVE a few bucks...

5
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: F/XT or outlaw class engine build prices?
« on: December 23, 2014, 02:03:18 am »
I know that Vanguards make great power...and have won...and contine to win lots of races. But at 38 cubic inches..there isnt much to go from there...bore or stroke. For a budget minded build...I think Id go with a
Briggs Intek 49. There are plenty of good parts available...and in FXT when you can get rid of that accursed intake manifold there is good reliable power available. 100+....doubtful....but enough when hooked up to be very competitive.

6
Coffee Shop / Re: new racer looking
« on: December 07, 2014, 09:43:04 pm »
I agree with Rocket Ron..if you are just starting racing and want to avoid the extreme learning curve and hit the track running....by all means buy a good running, well proven machine. And make no mistake...it is a VERY steep learning curve.  I also agree with his suggestion about who to contact for a proven machine. You absolutely can not go wrong there. Good luck to you in the sport..keep safety in the front of your mind.

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Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: intek
« on: December 07, 2014, 09:30:43 pm »
Say what you want to..but these 120+ hp Kohlers ( yes..Ive seen the Youtube dyno videos) arent coming from any 40-46 cubic inches. That would be nearly 3 hp per cubic inch. Even on alcohol..no industrial ohv pushrod motor regardless of internal modifications is going to make that kind of horsepower. Maybe 55-65 cubic inches might...or an overhead cam engine designed expressly for racing may....but Im not buying into that 40 cid stuff. I didnt just fall off the turnip truck..

8
Coffee Shop / Re: BP's
« on: December 04, 2014, 12:02:39 am »
The fix on bp's is simple. Get rid of that assinine seat height rule...let them run any seat..at 2"ride height. Keep the stock appearing motors. Keep the mower tires.Then you would have something with more than just a sembalance of control. Be so much more stable...and people wouldnt keep getting pitched off them. Especially on high grip tracks.

9
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: What oil
« on: December 03, 2014, 02:30:55 am »
That Rocket Shop Metorite Oil is hard to beat Ronnie! Race proven!

10
Coffee Shop / Re: Rev Limiter
« on: November 30, 2014, 03:34:07 pm »
Id absolutely love to have a 4500 rpm one! Today!..lol

11
USLMRA Races / Re: MOW DOWN THROW DOWN NOVEMBER 29TH
« on: November 30, 2014, 06:57:56 am »
The race turned out great...had a fine turnout..and the food was good. Ol Kermit can really cook!

12
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: What oil
« on: November 19, 2014, 08:18:28 pm »
I use and reccomend Klotz Special Formula products.  It protects better than anything I have used before and on the dyno shows more power. I have used it for many years. Their Estorlin oil is ideal for mowers.

13
Coffee Shop / Re: 3/4 live axle help
« on: November 19, 2014, 05:14:54 am »
Im my opinion, and I know others will disagree, any axle under 1.25" is not large enough. Personally, Ive seen three 1" axles just break off, entire wheel hub tire assembly just fall off on the track. My guess is you are planning on using pillow block type bearings, which not only dont roll freely...but are very heavy.  I would use the 1.25" size....because its the std. kart size. They are inexpensive plus there is a world of very high quality lightweight componants available for it.  And the afore mentioned free rolling bearings ARE free rolling. Additionally, I would set it up for #35 chain, plenty strong, and light weight. Do not use the bulk chain available at Tractor Supply and places like that. It WILL NOT hold up.

14
Coffee Shop / Re: Tillotson HR Questions
« on: July 30, 2014, 10:33:57 pm »
Long years ago when I raced open class two stroke karts...the happiest day of my racing career was when I retired my dual hl series carbs for a single hr series tillotson. The dual carbs were difficult to tune..and stay tuned. That hr would stay way more consistant. And still turn nearly 20,000 rpms!  Ahhh those were the days!

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Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: Built in rev limiter... what could it be?
« on: June 30, 2014, 05:06:47 pm »
Id put a degree wheel on it and check that timing with a light...i bet you arent even close to where you think you are.  A light and degree wheel is the ONLY way to accurately check and adjust it.

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