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Topics - awq134

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So i have a co-worker that got me a hook-up on a free 2006 John Deere D102.  I looked it up on John Deere's website and it says it has a Briggs 17hp.  I was wondering if it was a flat head or had an OHV.  the previous owner said the engine is seized up, but from what my buddy says, this guy isn't very smart when it comes to mechanical issues.  But if it is unsaleable, it's still a free mower i can find an engine for!

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Driveline / new axle rusting
« on: March 25, 2012, 08:44:42 am »
This is my first build so it is going pretty slow so far.  I have my rear axle installed and am currently waiting on my front spindles until i continue.  I have notices some light surface rust on my axle.  Is this normal, and if so what do you all do to remedy this.  Paint/clearcoat, or just don't worry about it?

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Chassis / chassis stiffness question
« on: March 02, 2012, 04:03:41 pm »
I started my build with a 1988 Rally lawn mower.  the frame is a U shape that is open at the top with a 1-2 inch lip at the top.  It seemed to be fairly sturdy when moving around(didn't seem to twist very much).  there was a spot for the battery that was countersunk about 1/2" lower than the rest of the frame.  This area was just forward of my 700 tranny and was getting in the way of the tranny pulley.  after cutting this piece out and welding in a new flat panel flush with the rest of the frame there now seems to be a lot of twisting in the frame now.  when i pick it up, it now flexes about 2-3" from one corner to the other.  I plan to put 1 1/2"x1 1/2" square tubing inside on both sides with cross members on the front and rear, and possibly somewhere in the middle.  is this common with this type of frame and would this be a good solution to remedy my current situation?

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Drag Mowers / rear axle length and hubs
« on: February 27, 2012, 07:36:44 pm »
I am in the process of building a drag mower and have a question.  I have a 36" rear axle.  It has opposed keyways on each end with a snap ring groove at the very end.  Is it acceptable to put the hubs more towards the center of the axle and use lock collars to keep them in place or do i have to put them at the very end of the axle with the snap rings?

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Tires / front wheels: hubs vs. bearings
« on: February 20, 2012, 08:48:15 pm »
this is my first build so i'm not going to go too crazy at first.  there will be plenty of time to upgrade.  I was thinking of getting 5/8 spindles and running some 6x6 wheels with high speed bearings instead of 4x4 bolt pattern wheels and hubs.  is this acceptable?

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Chassis / Front Spindle size
« on: February 20, 2012, 07:45:55 am »
What diameter spindles do you all run, 5/8 or 3/4?  I would think that 3/4 should stand up to some more wear just due to the bigger size, if it's the right grade.  What are the benefits from one or the other, besides strength?

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Driveline / peerless 700 tranny question?
« on: February 18, 2012, 02:02:46 pm »
what is ideal for the output shaft.  i have seen a few with large 8 spline output shafts and ones with finer higher count splines.  which is the preferred shaft and are there sprockets that will match up with either splines?

i was going to use my foote 4000 series trans axle until it blew up but when installing the tires the snap ring on one of the axles came loose and i figured if it happened on the install who's to say it wouldn't have came loose while riding it!  thankfully all i have spent on that tranny was $4 for some rtv to seal it up.

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Briggs Flathead / Puke tank for a newbie?
« on: February 12, 2012, 08:32:30 pm »
After searching i haven't quite found what i am looking for.  The puke tank is to catch residual oil from the higher speed and pressure of an ungoverned engine is what i have found so far.  From my searching it is a line running from the valve cover to a tank somewhere on the mower.  my real question is where is the valve cover and how do i tap into it.  If what i think is the valve cover, why is there a rubber tube running to my carb?  When i tore my engine down and took off the "valve cover", there was a quarter sized hole on the inside of it with a redish looking diaphragm inside it.  If this is the valve cover, do i just remove the rubber hose and route that to my puke tank and block off the hole in the carb?

Sorry if this seems like a dumb question, i work on jet engines for a living yet still haven't mastered the internal combustion engine... go figure!

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Driveline / mild build
« on: February 06, 2012, 08:48:35 pm »
I am brand new to the lawn mower racing scene.  I just scored a 1988 rally riding mower.  I have torn it completely down to inspect it. i have taken the engine apart to inspect for wear and i see little to no wear, the engine still has good compression, and the transmission has no missing or broken teeth.  I plan on flipping my transaxle to get the mower lower in the rear and replace the front end completely as well as the steering.  i plan on taking the governor out of it but not pinning the throttle to decrease my chances of blowing the engine.

my real question is what size pully's do you all run on the engine and the tranny.  It was stock with a 3 1/2" eng pulley and a 7" transmission pulley. I was thinking about ordering a 5 3/4" pulley for the engine and a 4" pulley on the tranny.  would this be a good choice for some more speed without making it too sluggish? 

also, what do you all do for the clutch, ie. centrifugal?

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Briggs Flathead / Governor Removal question
« on: January 30, 2012, 07:31:46 pm »
Do i take out the entire arm and flyweights or do i just remove the rod that goes through the case and plug the hole?  How do you all plug the hole?  I was thinking about tapping it for threads and then countersinking it just enough to put a seal under the bolt head?

ok, i found a write up that says just to remove the 2 pins on the flyweights and remove the flyweights.  It also says that i can leave the rod that goes through the case?  is this going to cause a leak issue, if i keep it in?  also, do i have to cut the tab off of the end of the rod or can i just leave it?

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