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Messages - Scott P.

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1
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: Briggs 31 Single Non-AVS OHV Upgrade Path
« on: January 29, 2015, 04:50:24 pm »
What about the EC cam? I have seen alot of people on the board say good things about them.

When upgrading the cam I know springs have to be replaced but anything else?

When upgrading the rod what do people typically do piston wise?

I will try to compile info up top for anyone else that sees this thread. Hopefully it will be helpful.

2
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Briggs 31 Single Non-AVS OHV Upgrade Path
« on: January 29, 2015, 02:52:41 pm »
I am running a Briggs non-avs 31 single, I currently have a flywheel, new head w/ split locks, governor deleted, and the adjustable jet in the carb. What is the typical path you guys go with these things to get more power out of them.

I have been searching around but it seems like there are alot of different answers.

I will compile the information below:

Stage 1:
-Confirm you have split lock valve spring keepers
-Billet Flywheel
-Governor delete

Stage 2:
-Aftermarket rod
-Aftermarket cam & valve springs
-Balance crank

Stage 3:


3
Drag Mowers / Fast DRAG Racing Lawn Mower For Sale On eBay!
« on: September 24, 2014, 10:46:31 pm »
Sorry,mowers with nitrous are not discussed on Heymow.

4
Driveline / Re: Identifying Lawn Mower Transmissions
« on: August 01, 2014, 05:35:30 pm »
For the drag racing my biggest problem was case strength. Typically what fails for me is the case, the differential gets so loaded up that it blows out of the case. However I have been running those smaller transaxles, this will be my first Peerless transmission.

Doing what you are doing, it probably wont last long anyhow, so I would fill it with cheap vegetable oil to cut down on the drag..Plus it will smell better when it cooks..

Most everyone runs some type of 80w90 gear lube in their transaxles except a select few who run 820's with bentonite and STP or some other additive.

If your not shifting that thing, go to a kart axle with a right angle gear box and set your ratio with your sprockets. Clutch the belt from the engine to the gear box.

5
Driveline / Re: Identifying Lawn Mower Transmissions
« on: August 01, 2014, 09:15:20 am »
Thanks for the help. I have a couple blown up transaxles so hopefully I will have some axles that will fit.

What fluid should I put in this thing and how much? I read somewhere some 80/90 gear oil and then in a different thread they recommended that Peerless stuff.

He was right about the axles. I did not notice until he said something.
You have a few options. With all the blown up transaxles you have you might have some that will work. If not you will have to put key ways in those axles. You wouldn't want to use the wheels that came with that transaxle, they are thin and bend. If they don't bend the drives will strip on the wheels.
However , the axles are case hardened. A typical keyway cutter or end mill will not cut them. The easiest way to key them would be with a grinder. Sand which 2 cut off blades together, or maybe 3 depending on thickness. Then just grind a key way in them.

6
Driveline / Re: Identifying Lawn Mower Transmissions
« on: August 01, 2014, 12:40:00 am »
In my WTB thread a couple people said they think its an 800.

I do have a pair of wheels that will fit this.

Any ideas where I can get a bracket to connect my shifter linkage to this? My current trans has a shifter shaft with a square on the end, this one has 2 rounded sides.

Also what fluid should I put in it when I put it back together, and how much?

As long as this doesn't blow up like the 4360 transmissions I was using before I will be good, I do alot of drag racing...(see below).



Looks like a 900 series peerless . It's got the undesirable axles. Do you have the rear rims to go with it?
Owen

7
Driveline / Re: Identifying Lawn Mower Transmissions
« on: July 31, 2014, 02:51:36 pm »
Just cracked it open.


8
Driveline / Re: Identifying Lawn Mower Transmissions
« on: July 31, 2014, 02:08:07 pm »
So I picked up a transmission locally, its a Peerless something. Unfortunately the ID tag was gone. Can someone tell me what this is? It has 3/4" axles.












9
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: Briggs 17HP 31 OHV Single Upgrade Path?
« on: July 10, 2014, 12:43:28 pm »
Right?! I am going to get a quality tach on it and see what she is doing.

huh>
Thats like idle RPM?

You'll want to balance that one lunger!
Use a degree wheel and get the timing right!
put a cam in it!

THIS IS AWESOME. Thank you. Someone should make this thread a sticky so people don't re-post the same basic questions for the OHV singles.

The OHV Briggs can be made to perform very well, however they do have issues:
****Use the crankshaft out of a 12 hp flattie and the oil pan on the 28 through the 31’s, this allows the ARC balance weights to be used. Modification is required to do this to the AVS (see below)****

1.They will not tolerate (break cranks)any timing over 30 deg.-Use a degree wheel to check-do not go by the marks on the flywheel(assuming you get a ARC aluminum wheel)
2. Some 28 and 31 have the coil mounted off to the side-not lined up with the cylinder, this advances the timing-again use the degree wheel.
3. They will break the stock rockers-use EC's aluminum ($200? Or mine for $40, mine are modified stock ones guaranteed for one year)-
4. They WILL pull the rocker studs out of the head-put a plate under the head, use longer studs or use my Stud Bridge ($50.0O also adds rigidity to head to prevent head gasket from blowing)
5.Use a copper head gasket (EC or make your own)
6.AVS engines (identify by oil tube going into block, non AVS goes into oil pan) both 28 and 31 have some that are AVS
7.The AVS WILL break the timing gear, no aftermarket available at this time, (good chance it will also break the oil pan $80 and the cam $150, highly suggest you not build a AVS with a AVS crank in it).
8.You can take a 31 AVS and put a 28 CI flathead oil pan an crankshaft in it IF you weld the top and bottom and the oil fill hole in the block. This will allow you to run the small journal crank, brass syncro eliminators, ARC rod and piston. Block must be machined back down to get the oil pan to seal. I ran two of these engines this year in a Mod and a Pro-had no problems with them, won regional in the mod, was in 2nd at the Nats until a guy jumped the restart and put me on the ground. The deal with building the 31 is you get a factory bore and don’t have to pay $150 to bore a 28 (assuming you cant find a non AVS 31) A 31 CI WILL BEAT A 28 ALL THE TIME, EVERYTIME PERIOD! You need to be able to weld aluminum and access to a milling machine, if you do this make a jig to support the block so the machinist can clamp it on the milling table. I used a heavy peice of square tubing, used one of my broken cranks, machined it down, bolted it to the block through the flywheel side and made plate that bolted to where the head goes on the block. This keeps the block from warping when you weld it. You WILL get porosity when you weld the block, don't worry about it, gasket sealer will seal it.

Want to go fast and the engine live? Do this:

Cut the head .125
Use EC's valves, springs and retainers
Use Precision Cams Cheeta cam, Dyno has one also just as good
Small journal (non AVS) crank, ARC rod, brass eliminator plates.
Copper head gasket
ARC aluminum flywheel
EC's Carb, if you run Pro use the big Tilly (ask George)
No more than 30 deg timing
Roller rockers (EC's or mine)






Stud plate (or my bridge)
Don't try to use dual springs on valves-engine WILL break over 6500 RPM-
Don’t waste your time using a large journal AVS crank, that balances, they WILL break the timing gear.


Note" I no longer make stud bridges or rockers, use EC's

10
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Briggs 17HP 31 OHV Single Upgrade Path?
« on: July 10, 2014, 12:13:38 am »
So I am trying to pep up my 31 ci Briggs single. Here is what I have done so far..

-Billet ARC flywheel (currently set full negative which should be stock)
-Governor delete w/ throttle pedal & OMB throttle linkage
-Most recent Briggs OEM head w/ split lock keepers
-EC adjustable needle jet kit
-1.25" exhaust, about 24" long

It currently revs to about 5400 but wont go any higher. Is it safe to assume that the stock valve springs are allowing the valves to float at this point?

What would be next to help this little motor out?

I have already searched a bunch but haven't found any solid info.

I currently have a cheap Chinese tach installed that responds a bit slow, tomorrow I will be installing a genuine Tiny Tach for faster response.

11
So what would be next for this motor?

I deleted the governor, put on a billet flywheel, and installed the EC adjustable needle jet kit. I also installed the latest revision head with stronger retainers & keepers.

It overall runs great but seems to kind of hit a wall at around 2500 rpm. What would be the next best mod?

I'm still running the stock intake & exhaust.

12
Well, I put the new head on today and the mower runs great!

Thank you guys for all the help!

13
I pulled the head yesterday and the piston has a few scrapes on it but with a little clean up work it will be fine.

So if I order the most recent part number for the head (796026) that uses a real retainer and keepers what kind of RPM will be safe with a stock cam?

Also, I have no problem searching. That is always the first thing I do before posting. But information can be tough to find and even more difficult to decipher what is truth, opinion, and flat out false.

With that being said I appreciate all of the help and tips from you guys!

Scott....I'm not picking on you, just using this prime opportunity for an example.
We preach and preach on here to READ,READ, READ!!!
Especially this time of year, most of the "mower knowers" are at races, working on mowers/engines, etc...add to that the multiple engine threads - you normally never see me in a rocker arm thread at all....alot of the guys that have answers simply look past questions that have been answered 1000 times, or in a case like this we sometimes fail to mention something so basic, yet crucial to building an engine.
It would not take much reading on engine threads on here at all to know that those style of retainers are absolutely worthless!!
You should've never used it , when your taking an engine apart to "build" it for performance use, those are on the top of the list to get pitched!! ( i wont even use them on a grass cutter!)
What happened to your engine was lack of research bud....a little time reading saves a lot of time and money fixing....if the head is all you lost, you got lucky!
You have to know how to use the wrench to get a bolt out.....research building an engine before you start....how long that engine lasts, and how much power it makes seems to be directly tied to how much information the brains hooked to the hands building it have......



14
It looks like the valve just ripped through the retainer. From what I can gather I must have an older style that doesnt use keepers but rather uses a cheap stamped retainer. Sound about right? Check out the pic below..


15
The engine was running perfect before this. Is there anything I can do to prevent this? It looks like the valve just completely removed itself from the spring.

I have a new head on order.

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