This is my first racing mower build. I studied a lot of builds on this site before building it. So far it has been running and cornering great. Thanks for all the great info guys.

I should have taken more pictures during the build but here are the ones I did take.

Trying to mock up engine placement and frame height. Ended up moving the the 20 hp Intek down and back with my own 1/4" steel engine plate to get it to fit where the stock 9hp was.

Got the engine, trans, axles mounted, frame boxed, and seat/ fender mount made. Had to move the fenders up almost 6" to keep the frame level and still have tire clearance. Used an EC front axle, trans plate, brake rotor and other various parts.

Here is the exhaust system. I used the stock 1" exhaust to 1.25" into a 2" collector. The 1" slipped into the 1.25 nice and snug. I was going for a stepped header for more low end. So far it seems to work.

Bottom side. I used the stock clutch and springs with a 5" trans and 8" engine pulley. Working great except it doesn't like the T.S.E. kevlar belts. I slipped the first race I put it on. So I went back to the old rubber belt I used for mock up and it runs great.

Waiting on getting the engine back from rebuilding. I also had the heavier stock intek connecting rods, springs and push rods put in while it was apart. So far my only issue has been keeping the pan gasket from blowing. Not sure what is causing it yet.

All put together before it first race. I plan on doing the bodywork next year.

And here are some pictures form my first race.





Other than pan gasket blowing twice, slipping the kevlar belt, and overheating the brakes it has be running awesome for a first build. It out handles everything in our little mower racing club and for a relatively stock engine it hangs right with the modified engines.

Thanks for the info guys. I think I will go with ARP bolts with the stock rods for now and try to keep it under 6000rpms.
Do you have the part number for the ARP rod bolts? I could not find them in there online catalog.

On to the valvetrain. One guy mentioned getting better valve spring retainers and another had issues with valve float. Is any improvement necessary if I keep the engine at sane rpms?

Next oiling. Is the stock setup good for 6000rpms and keeping the rods together?

Last question for now is about the tin pieces that direct the airflow down over the cylinders and head. My engine does not have them. Are they needed?

Where do the Intek rods normally fail? Will a stock engine even make power at or past 6000 rpm?

So I assume that is $129 per rod? Any other options for rods?  I was thinking of using one of ron's rocket parts air filter kits.

I am building my first mower for the B/P class with a 20 hp Intek. The numbers on the tappet cover say it is a 98 and I am guessing it has a few hours on it. I would like to keep it relatively stock and cheap. My plan is to remove governor, cone air filter kit, and 1.25" by 31" long header to a 2" collector. Most my races this year will be a quarter mile banked go cart track. So I am guessing there will be long high rpm runs.

Do you guys think setup will hold together? What is a max rpm to shoot for and is the exhaust the right size and length?

I got my 700 trans home now but it doesn't have steel gears. Do the 800 transaxles have steel gears and would they work in the 700? I have a couple that I could steal parts off of if needed.

I am building my first mower this winter and I am trying to decide on which trans to use. The the local group I am going to race with uses  USLMRA B/P class rules with the addition of a muffler and rear bumper. I am building my mower out John Deere 108 with a 20hp Intek V-twin. I am trying to build my mower as cheep and reliable as I can. I was toying with the idea of using a 820 transaxle but I am  over that now and I think I will be using a transmission of some type.
I found a 700 and a couple 350 or 400 transmissions that I am sure I can get for under 50 bucks and race prep them myself. My other ideas were to buy a new race prepped 700, the new beefy 700 EC Distributing coming out at the end of the month or send the 350/400 for a proper race prep. Which option would be the most reliable and cheapest?

I am also torn between the EC front axle and the Grasscar Axle. A few of the other guys in the group will be running the the Grasscar axle and it looks nice. It looks like the EC axle has more adjustability but I am not sure I would know what to do with all the adjustments anyway.

I last question is about adjustable bearing cassettes for the rear axle. Do I need them and how do you mount them?