Josh, I'm newer to mower racing and newer here than you. But I do have a few years of age on you, and have participated in various Internet forums on different subjects in my life. Here's some advice I think might help you.

Even though I'm new to all of this, I post about 5% of the questions I have here. The other 95%, I've managed to find my own answers. When you have a question, do everything you can to find the answer yourself. Google is an amazing tool. The search tool on this board is a close second; but most of the time, Google will find results on this board as well as its search tool does. Remember that everyone here is taking their free time to read and respond. Minimizing the questions - ESPECIALLY the ones that have been answered before - shows respect for others' free time.

When you can't find an answer through other means, by all means ask a question here. But make it as complete as possible. Add pictures of what you're working on, list what you've already tried that didn't work, state what your mower's model is and what class you're building for. Make sure you're posting in the correct place (post engine questions in the engine section, etc.). Make it clear. There is something to be said about using proper grammar, spelling, and punctuation. It makes it easier to respond to your question.

And this hopefully could go without saying, but always be polite and appreciative.

Frank, I was already digging thru the ole tool box!  I was wondering if you could run your cable to the long end of a fulcrum then use the short side for the brake rod, pivot in the middle.  They do sell handlebar mounted master cylinders, but I understand the cost aspect.  You need some type of mechanical advantage to get the pressures correct, you can only do so much with your hand and still hold on.

That's exactly where I was going with it. I have an old deck pulley with good bearings that needs a good home. I was thinking of cutting it down, mounting a strap off of it, and hooking the cable to the strap. Then I'd hook the master cylinder into the opposite side of the pulley. That would definitely provide the mechanical advantage needed. The only concern then is length of travel, which is why I asked about that. If I make the strap too long, it will only move the opposite side of the pulley - and the master cylinder arm - a fraction of that needed to squeeze the calipers.

That helps explain it. I'm setting up a hand brake and trying to figure out whether I should go directly cable to brake or put some kind of force multiplier in between. Thank you both for the responses.

Just wanted to close this thread by saying that George and EC took care of the part that left without the set screw hole drilled. As anyone who has dealt with them knows, EC's customer service is top notch. Thanks George and EC!

harborfreight has some nice auto darkening helmets and can go on sale for as low as 29 bucks . think i paid 40 for mine

I second that. I paid $35 for one and it's adjustable in reaction time and sensitivity. My Dad likes it better than some other brand that he paid $100 for.

If there is not a different hub for the 9 spline, then you have to groove the shaft.

Cheapest method, hacksaw a groove in the teeth.
Or use a die grinder and a cut off wheel.
You can take it out and chuck it up in a lathe.

I wouldn't go as deep as the shaft size, just enough to get a good bite.

Thanks Birdman. In looking at it, that's about the best I came up with. I'll give machining a slot for a c ring into the teeth a shot.

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The hub itself has a set screw in it that holds it rather well be sure its clean and use blue lock tight. I have had no problems with mine at all.

George, that's basically my original question. The hub doesn't have a hole for the included set screw. If it did, that would resolve my issue. Is it supposed to have a hole in it?

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Is the shaft tapped for a bolt maybe ?

PitGuy, good suggestion. It's not, but it could be.

I've got one of these and am missing something (probably something obvious) about how to keep it mounted on the output shaft of my 700 without it sliding off. In the bag with it was a set screw, but nowhere on the hub is a drilled and tapped hole for the set screw. Am I supposed to drill and tap a hole in it? If so, in which part?

So I apologize for asking yet another rookie question, but I'd rather not pop an unneeded hole into a $20 part. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Jason, both cuts are legal in both ARMA and USLMRA.  Look at some MTD builds in the build section, especially George's and you will see these cuts being made.

Doc, thanks for the advice on both counts. I'll check George's builds more closely, then go make some cuts.