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Messages - LOUIS CATES

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1
Coffee Shop / Re: HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!
« on: November 27, 2013, 10:00:37 pm »
Hope all you mowta heads have a safe and happy Thanksgiving with friends and family.

2
Coffee Shop / Re: Prayers for fellow racer!
« on: September 27, 2013, 06:06:43 pm »
Prayers from Maine coming his way.

3
Briggs Flathead / Re: 12hp flathead performance
« on: September 27, 2013, 07:41:27 am »
Ya that should be ok. You just didn't say that in your original post when you said you removed everything including the shaft.
 Still need gearing. 6 and 4 is 8 to 1 in high gear. I have 8 & 4 on my 820.

4
Briggs Flathead / Re: 12hp flathead performance
« on: September 25, 2013, 10:51:04 pm »
how? please share.
  First : when you removed the governor, you also removed the oil slinger. Did you fabricate a new one?  Second : with the gearing you have, you will be over revving the mostly stock motor the entire run . It wont last long that way.

5
Briggs Flathead / Re: 12hp flathead performance
« on: September 24, 2013, 11:03:05 pm »
Sounds like a recipe for a blown engine. :doh:

6
Newcomers / Re: New Guy All-In and Ready to Race IMOW- Needs Help
« on: September 24, 2013, 10:35:55 pm »
I am a budget builder myself and make what I can, buy what I can't. At a national level you wont be competitive. You should however at least build to the level of your local competition . These frames are too flexible for racing so you have to strengthen them first. That means you should decide which running gear you wll use up front because it is a considerable amount of work to change later.  Also you want to get rid of the stock steering gear its junk, go direct. Even in a budget build there are some things that cannot be skipped if you want to actually Finnish a race with a mower in one piece. I found out the hard way like most of these guys. That's the point they are making.  Good luck and happy building.

7
Driveline / Re: set up
« on: September 05, 2013, 09:58:06 pm »
 You didn't say what size motor you're running, but based on what you have said  I would say your two best options are 12 tooth for fourth gear or go up to 15 tooth to run in third gear. Somewhere on this site if you search you will find a ratio calculator that is very useful

8
Briggs Flathead / Re: 18 hp oppy frosting intake
« on: August 16, 2013, 12:24:24 am »
Well, up here in Maine our pump gas is E-10. That does cause a lot of problems for small engines. Mostly water and separation issues but none of my single cylinder  racing machines do this. I have an sp ap and 2 imows.
 I do use Stabil ethanol formula, and this has occurred repeatedly, the entire manifold gets frosty from Carb to mount at block. Tank removed, clean  with brake parts cleaner and dry with compressed air. Blow out the lines, new fuel filter,clean Carb, fill with fresh fuel and stabil. Always runs the same.
 I use this mower for parades. I don't go fast, I just rev it a lot to make some noise for the crowd. Its been like this since I put it together two yrs ago but sometimes it goes really good and doesn't cut out much. Other. Times much worse. But it never stalls or quits and always idles flawless.


9
Briggs Flathead / Re: 18 hp oppy frosting intake
« on: August 15, 2013, 08:08:34 pm »
 Running rich does help some . Ive been making that adjustment when it starts to bother. On both hi and low screws, to the point it starts puffin black  .Makes it better but still not right on acceleration.  Maybe I should pull the Carb off and see if I'm missing something when I clean it. Maybe I'm not getting "everything ". Then look into possible stove pipe solution. Thanks for all the replies I appreciate it.

10
Briggs Flathead / Re: 18 hp oppy frosting intake
« on: August 14, 2013, 09:24:46 pm »
I know I never seen it either. I have 2 brothers in law that both work in small engie shops and they've not seen it before.  Temps have been in the 70's near 80 humidity above 50 % most of the time and I think it is a 3 screw Carb and I know its a 42 Cid. And I just use cheap gas 87 octane with stabil ethanol formula cause we have E 10

11
Briggs Flathead / 18 hp oppy frosting intake
« on: August 14, 2013, 12:27:05 am »
I have a stock motor except gov bypass and exhaust. Starts frosting to the point that it affects performance in non race conditions  . The exhaust uses stock size header pipes at least a foot long before going 2 into 1 with 2 inch pipe about 2 feet long. Is it more probable that I don't have enough restriction or possible Carb problem . Runs great till it starts freezing.

12
Driveline / Re: A/P Huffy drive belt routing
« on: August 07, 2013, 11:18:25 pm »
  I am a member of the nelmra yahoo group site. Would like very much to come down, but I'd call this a building year as I'm working on 3 mowers now. A new sp for me and a couple imows for family. Hoping to be up and running next year to rebuild group .
Sorry I meant for this thread to be about belts and pullies.

13
Post your Pics! / Re: trbinrat's parts and tractor pics
« on: August 07, 2013, 10:33:06 pm »
I like this thread. Especially the pics of the belt drives and front ends.  Nice!!!

14
Driveline / Re: A/P Huffy drive belt routing
« on: August 07, 2013, 06:30:48 pm »
1) I thought maybe a fresh thread on this topic could be helpful,  especially for budget builders, since I am one.
2) I am a member of the Central Maine Lawnmower Association. We were a USLMRA chapter. Truthfully we have not done anything for 2 seasons. For multiple reasons . But we will be back.
  Some of you guys from Saco have raced with us in the past. If you were one of them you may remember a purple huffy that served double duty. My wife ran AP and I ran with the fx guys as a field filler. I also ran it once at the Durham fair in Conn. a few years ago. Ran sp and ap. Was hoping to run with Tom L. but he had trouble that night. I have not replaced the belt on this machine since that race,and only because I broke a pulley. Btw we also do 1 or 2 parades every year too. Just did Special Olympics parade recently.     

15
Driveline / A/P Huffy drive belt routing
« on: August 07, 2013, 02:52:11 am »
  I've been seeing a lot of posts about huffy motor plates and lack of space. I know the Dbl pulley clutch is preferred but I found that the boomerang configuration works very well. This is what I have.
  1) Reverse the stock clutch so that it pushes.the belt towards the center instead of pulling out towards the frame.
2) On the opposite side from the clutch install a v ldler. When the belt is installed it will look like a boomerang shape. This will give good belt to pulley contact when fully engaged.
  I run a stock 8 hp motor with  3.75 front, a 3.25 rear pulleys and a 30 inch green belt and have more than 20 races on same belt. Pulley sizes maybe  have to be different for built engines.
   Hope this may help someone a bit.

      Louis from Maine
       

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