Heymow - Lawnmower Racing Forum
Mower Building / Setup Help => Chassis => Topic started by: stephenson racing on December 03, 2013, 01:43:13 pm
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Just wondering how everyone is getting to 40 wide on old builds
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My opinion would be to leave the front end alone unless you want to replace the axle, move the rears out to the 40” and get the seat down to the minimum height.
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I agree. I'm not hacking my front end up to add 2 inches. If I was building a new machine with a new axle that would be a different story. The seat height, ya, I'm hacking my fender up for that. Just my opinion.
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Why not run wider front wheels with the same backspacing? It does the same thing.
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My opinion im not cutting off my front axle. My mower look good like that. With a extra inch hanging out I think my mowers look unpreportsion.
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If you don't move the fronts out with the rear you will be loooose!
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I was tight just moving my rears out. :bash:
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I agree. I'm not hacking my front end up to add 2 inches. If I was building a new machine with a new axle that would be a different story. The seat height, ya, I'm hacking my fender up for that. Just my opinion.
Remember you do not just hack the fenders and lower the seat in.. you must mold the seat pan back into the lower position.
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Still trying to figure out how to get the lower seat hight anyone have any suggestions or even pics of how they are doing it ?
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The heims on my front end were adjusted all the way in so i should be able to adjust them out to gain that inch on each side without messing up my front end geometry (or at least get close). just need to make new tie rods after i do that
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I would borrow a bolt stretcher to use on the heims.
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I would borrow a bolt stretcher to use on the heims.
use the "gold" series or it won't work....
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Remember you do not just hack the fenders and lower the seat in.. you must mold the seat pan back into the lower position.
The rule book says protective trimming. Could we get clearer pictures of this. A clear picture of this done on a mtd tunnel chassis with the big one piece fender would help. A little clarity please?
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The rules book shows MTD fenders.
http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=17805.0
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use the "gold" series or it won't work....
Well I was hopeing to save a few pennies by renting the tool from Auto Zone while i was there getting new spark plugs for my Cummins... but they only had the "heavy duty" series. Ill have to keep searching :lol:
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Just added 1" wider front rims, no worries about the rear. width on front is more important than rear. Already have wide front rims? remove front axle, splice in 2" in the center and add longer tie rod tubes, not too hard to do!
On the fender mods I think they want to see is the seat area to be cut out and material added back in on the sides and welded back together to look like it was made that way. What they don't want to see is the fender cut out in the seat area and dropping the seat in the hole without filling it back in . Very clear pictures in rule book on what they want to see, you just have to apply it to your application
Chuck Miller
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I was tight just moving my rears out. :bash:
Looking at your pictures and saw the old Mower, What size wheels and tires are you running? I am all new to mower racing and am getting ready to order some and like the stance that yours has. Thanks!! You can send me a PM if it is something you do not want to post.
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13x6.5x6 on 6.5 wide rims. Turf masters. Rear were 16x7.5x8 turf savers on 7in wide rims. Front steering had no ackerman. Also the front tires were rubbing the front hood. Will be running 16x7.5x8 turf masters on 8in wide rims for next year.
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13x6.5x6 on 6.5 wide rims. Turf masters. Rear were 16x7.5x8 turf savers on 7in wide rims. Front steering had no ackerman. Also the front tires were rubbing the front hood. Will be running 16x7.5x8 turf masters on 8in wide rims for next year.
Thank you! I have someone that gave me a new set of 13x6.5x6 so that is great!