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Driveline / Re: Peerless 820 series with solid kart axle?
« on: August 31, 2009, 06:03:31 pm »
WOW...i guess i'll just have to try to bore these differential halves out, thats a bit more than i wanted to spend.
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Driveline / Re: Peerless 820 series with solid kart axle?
« on: August 31, 2009, 04:27:44 pm »
George, care to explain the 017 kit? i've heard of it before, but didnt look into it much. What would be the total cost? I understand its basically a few new gears that allow you to run a solid axle and also makes the gear ratio much higher than stock? correct?
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Driveline / Re: Peerless 820 series with solid kart axle?
« on: August 30, 2009, 08:52:41 pm »
Oh, i always saw pictures, and heard about them having 4 shift keys. Either way i'd like the use the 820 if at all possible.
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Driveline / Re: Peerless 820 series with solid kart axle?
« on: August 30, 2009, 08:48:01 pm »
I have a 700 also, but would rather use the 820 for a few reasons, main one being the extra cost of bearings, sprockets, and locking collars adds up. I may have to go that route in the end though. Also, my 700 only has 2 shift keys, which im sure is much weaker than a 4 shift key version.
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Driveline / Peerless 820 series with solid kart axle?
« on: August 30, 2009, 08:38:18 pm »
I was tearing down my 820 to put in a solid kart axle when i noticed the axle shafts are stepped down slightly to fit into the differential gear, how am i supposed to fit a 1" kart axle in there? I assume boring it out is the only option, but i have no way of doing that, any other options?
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Driveline / Re: Re: RACE PREPPING A 700 SERIES TRANNY
« on: July 29, 2009, 03:03:35 pm »The input of these transmissions are only rated at 12 ft lbs of torque. I have found in all my years of racing its best to over drive them rather than run a 1 to 1 setup. Especially on a high hp motor. I personally been running a 8 to 5 then 12 to 46 on my twin on the singles with 6" wheels I run 8 to 5 then 15 to 46 thru 50 depending on track or motor. I have had one bushing go bad in 10 years that doesn't mean I don't change some after a season. I had 1 fail best put it that way. And I run 6 to 8 oz of gear lube not grease.
Guess i learn something new every day, i always thought it would be better to put more torque into them than more RPM, what about with a support bushing? seems like with a support bushing for the input shaft you could put plenty of torque on the shaft without problems.
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Driveline / Re: RACE PREPPING A 700 SERIES TRANNY
« on: July 29, 2009, 02:38:33 pm »
Actually, when i think of it, stock gearing is probably a bad idea, what class are you running and what is the ratio limit? When i really think of it its probably best to run 1:1 into transmission then adjust gearing with sprockets depending on class, engine, and track.
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Driveline / Re: RACE PREPPING A 700 SERIES TRANNY
« on: July 29, 2009, 02:23:33 pm »
Well, its going to put more wear on the bushings. Personally i would run stock, or close to something around 1:1 maybe even 2:1 and then change gearing with different sprockets.
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Driveline / Re: Noram Star Clutch Pulley Help...
« on: July 28, 2009, 11:27:21 pm »
The reason a belt would put more stress is because of the tension you need to apply for it not to slip. 15 minutes is nothing, but im sure you use a lathe to machine the gears off? if i were to try to grind hardened gears off accurately with my angle or bench grinder it would take me an hour. Oh well, personal preference i guess.
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Driveline / Re: Noram Star Clutch Pulley Help...
« on: July 28, 2009, 08:09:56 pm »
No, it is the hard way, taking a clutch meant to run chain and then converting it over to belt? it puts more stress on the clutch bushing (bearing?) and is a lot more work than going with a chain. Again i dont know how your snapping chains like that, #40 is pretty beefy...
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Driveline / Re: Noram Star Clutch Pulley Help...
« on: July 28, 2009, 07:11:28 pm »Thats because of the smooth track there on.. Lawn Mower tracks are not that smooth.. at least the ones I have seen.. Not saying you can't do it that way but, wouldn't work long though..... I used to race go karts and broke chains and they don't have the torque the lawn mower have..
You probably had cheap chain, with good quality #35 chain and it will hold up just fine. A 50hp Rhino has much more torque than a racing mower, there tracks may be smooth but they also run torque converters, and really push those things. Whatever though, if your set on doing it the hard way then go for it.
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Driveline / Re: Noram Star Clutch Pulley Help...
« on: July 28, 2009, 10:32:05 am »
I know people running quality 35 chain on their Jr dragsters, with Rhinos pushing 50hp, and they have no problems at all. I would not run a belt myself, if you have a few chain guides and the proper tension you should be fine with it on its side, i've see it done before.
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Driveline / Re: Noram Star Clutch Pulley Help...
« on: July 28, 2009, 12:53:29 am »
So why do you want it to be belt driven instead of chain? chain is much better than belt...
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Briggs Flathead / Re: shaved 11 hp 25cc head
« on: July 26, 2009, 08:23:59 pm »
Stroke has to do with crank, im not sure but i doubt it.
Shaving the eyebrows is taking a little metal off the part circled in this pic, dont take too much off but do a nice job, take your time, and smooth it out. I assume your using a dremel?
Shaving the eyebrows is taking a little metal off the part circled in this pic, dont take too much off but do a nice job, take your time, and smooth it out. I assume your using a dremel?
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Driveline / Re: will it work
« on: July 26, 2009, 07:20:54 pm »
BMIkarts.com has 1" steel axles starting at $20 for a 36", and i think its like $25 for a 45".