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Topics - fort_maceo

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Chassis / MCP hydraulic master cylinder questions
« on: August 27, 2012, 08:12:33 am »
I'm setting up my brake pedal and have a couple of questions that will hopefully keep me from having to re-do it. I have this master cylinder:

The arm has almost 2" of travel at the top hole. It requires a decent, but not huge, amount of effort to pull it. My questions are as follows:
  • Does it require all of that travel to work the calipers? If not, how much does it require?
  • Does the effort required to move it get a lot heavier when the fluid is in it? If so, how much heavier? Not looking for a number, just "a WHOLE LOT!" or "not much."

Thanks in advance for your help!

2
Driveline / EC quick change sprocket hub retention on shaft?
« on: July 22, 2012, 02:07:05 pm »
I've got one of these and am missing something (probably something obvious) about how to keep it mounted on the output shaft of my 700 without it sliding off. In the bag with it was a set screw, but nowhere on the hub is a drilled and tapped hole for the set screw. Am I supposed to drill and tap a hole in it? If so, in which part?

So I apologize for asking yet another rookie question, but I'd rather not pop an unneeded hole into a $20 part. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

3
Chassis / MTD frame modifications
« on: July 07, 2012, 10:07:25 pm »
I haven't seen this addressed in any of the build threads. If I missed it, I apologize for being redundant in posting it here.

I'm building for ARMA Mod X, starting with an MTD box frame chassis. The rules state:
Quote
Mowers must maintain a minimum of 4" of ground clearance under the lowest point of the frame except Super Modified classes. Unused brackets and non-structural material may be removed to gain clearance.

So two questions:

On the front of the frame is a plate where the old front axle bolted up. The bottom part of it hangs down a inch or two from the rest of the frame. Can I cut the hanging-down part off? Or more likely, bend it over and weld it as part of the reinforcing I'm doing? Basically have the bottom of the front of the frame level with the rest of the frame. See red lines in these two pictures:



Second question, along the same lines. At the rear of the frame, there are slight projections hanging down on each side where the old transaxle bolted up. I'm doing a live axle setup. Can I lop off these projections to, again, have a straight line on the bottom of the frame? See red line in this picture:


I could make the argument that both of these modifications are the removal of "non-structural material," but as this is my first build, I thought I better seek guidance from those more knowledgeable. It's much easier to not cut things off than it is to cut them off and weld them back on.

Thanks in advance for any input.

4
Tires / Cheap wheels/tires
« on: February 01, 2012, 08:08:22 am »
I'm new to this, so as with all of my posts, I apologize in advance for asking what must seem like elementary questions to you veterans.

I'm currently researching wheels and tires. I'll be going with 13x6.5-6's on the front and 16x6.5-8's on the rear. The mower I'm starting with already has 6" wheels on the front and 8" on the rear. The fronts are the typical mower bushing wheels, held on with a cotter pin through the end of the spindle. The rears have one hole in the middle with a bolt into the end of the axle. My first question is whether there's a way to modify these wheels to be used with cart hubs (3 bolt front and 4 bolt rear)?

If there's not, or if it's not worth the trouble, where has everyone found good, cheap wheels and tires? There are always some used wheels/tires on eBay for the rear (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tires-Turf-16-x-6-50-8-Tubeless-Tire-4-ply-Bolt-/200705001006?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ebaf3462e) for quite a bit cheaper than buying new, but I don't know if I'm missing something on whether there would be an advantage to buying new ones.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

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