Ok, so here is my problem.

The bolt for the intake rocker on head #2 has stripped out it's 2nd set of heli coils.

I got 2 options as far as I see it.

Door number one: Buy a head + gasket for about $80, swap everything over, back running in an afternoon.

Door number two: Buy a 44ci intek for $150 and swap what I can over. Question is what will swap over directly between the two?
Here's what is in the 40:
G-team cam
Billet flywheel
ec carb
Billet rods
e.c pushrods and retainers/valvesprings

I would be willing to lay down some coin for a stronger engine, and I know theres no replacement for displacement. But the 40 is a strong little motor that revs up really good.   Would swapping to a 44ci have that huge of a difference in power? Are the power characteristics any different?

I'm leaning towards the 44ci for future big bore plans though....

Ive been looking at increasing the compression on my motor a little bit, and I'm wondering if my stock crank and pistons will be able to handle the extra load without grenading.

I have the arc rods, and arc flywheel, e.c springs and retainers, e.c pushrods, gteam cam, and ported heads.

Would I need to look into balancing the crank? Or some sort of ceramic pistons or such?

What would be a safe amount to shave the heads?

I would like to be able ot run the motor off of premium, because I found non ethanol 93 octane in town,

Can I swap the internals from my 40ci to a 44ci block?

The reason I'm asking is because I would like to have a 49ci engine, and I'm assuming that the 44ci block has more room for boring out.

I do realize that I will have to buy different pistons, but will the crank, cam, rods, and valvetrain swap in? (I think saw a difference inbetween the cams?)

And does briggs make a ceramic coated 49ci piston? Or will I have to go with something like a wiseco custom job?

I have an intek twin with the aluminum intake, and I just got a dominator carb from E.C., but the throttle hookup was on the opposite side as my stock carb, so I can't figure out a good way to hook up the throttle.

I've tried running the cable from under the intake, from above the intake, through a pulley, and the current setup I have only opens the throttle 80% of the way, and I really have to squeeze it hard. And I have 2 big springs for the throttle return, and they still aren't pulling it back to idle. The intake has already had to be filed a bunch to make room for the cable holder nut.

Lemme see your setups for the intek twin.

Would it be better for fitment to find a plastic intake?

Just reconstructed my transmission as per the exploded view of the transmission. (So it should be done right)

But the transmission skips and jerks whenever I put a good amount of force on it. (accelerating, or sometimes going from a standstill)

I blew up my old transmission, because of an unseen oil leak, but the cases were still good, So I swapped the gears out of the spare one I had lying around into the old transmission. They are both 700 series transmissions.

Help? Ideas?

So I have built a 40ci intek twin, just with a new g-team cam, double valve springs, billet retainers and ported heads.

And now it is not running right, it is sputtering whenever I give it any throttle when I'm moving. I haven't done anything to the carb if that helps.


Also, just a question, when I reassembled the crank/pistons/rods and I would tighten down the rod caps, and the whole assembly became extremely hard to turn. (I used plenty of oil when I reassembled it)

The only time that the crank would turn freely is when I would loosen up the rod end caps, but the bolts were waaay too loose to just leave them like that.

So I re-assembled the engine, but the starter won't turn it over if it is on a compression stroke.

And if I let the engine sit for just 5 or so minutes, the engine seems to "freeze up" and becomes hard to turn again. I have to turn it over with a large ratchet wrench to get it to an easy enough spot to where the starter can handle it.






So, basically 2 questions

1. I need to know if it's not running right because of the fact that I have a stock carb

2. Is the engine supposed to be extremely hard to turn over after re-assembling it. (It sat for a couple of months in a garage dissasembled if that helps) it wasn't allowed to rust though

I have a 40ci intek, and I just ordered a high performance cam for it. (I am also getting better springs, pushrods, and retainers)

I have a stock nikki carb, and I was wondering if I am going to need to buy a better jet for it to run properly?  It has the stupid fuel solenoid on the bottom of the bowl.

Didn't know whether to post this in tires or here.

Anyways, what tires are you guys running on your mowchines? I find that my turf-masters are expanding and rubbing on my fender, and I am askeered of them one day exploding on me while I am going fast. I would like to find a reasonably priced tire that comes in basic lawn-mower sizes and can handle speeds of 60+ mph.