Heymow - Lawnmower Racing Forum
Mower Building / Setup Help => Project Builds => Racing Mower Builds => Topic started by: IBuiltmine-o1oo on December 01, 2006, 10:08:34 pm
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Ok, guys, i found another mower that i think im gonna put my 44 cube intek and 700 tranny. I want the short wheelbase, and as light as i can get it, and i could get this mower in my pickup by myself, where as the MTD i couldnt!
i have no ideah what year or anything else about it except its got a one speed peerless gear box, it had a 6hp techumseh engine, and that it says craftsman on the hood!
So which one should i build?!?!?
This one:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_mower2-1.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/mower2-1.jpg)
or THIS ONE:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_OldCraftsman.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/OldCraftsman.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_OldCraftsman4.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/OldCraftsman4.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_OldCraftsman3.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/OldCraftsman3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_OldCraftsman2.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/OldCraftsman2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_OldCraftsman1.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/OldCraftsman1.jpg)
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I love that yellow one!!! That would be by choice if it was up to me!
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Oh, that little yeller one with Squidd's frame in the Let's build and F/X build would be the ticket.... yes... uh huh.... yep... sure thing... uh huh.. yep yep...
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files too big for dail up Sorry can't coment
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Fixed.
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too big for dialup. it auto sizes it to a little thumbnail size.
im going to build the yellow owne with a big ol v-twin on it!
ill get some better pics tomorrow when its light and it quits snowing!
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hey squidd, how do i do the thumbs like that?
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Those are on photobucket right...?
Go to your album page...
Check the little box right next to the title (just under picture)
Go to bottom of page where it says "generate html and img code" click that...
It'll open new page...
Click the center line "IMG clickable thumbnails for message boards - recommended"
Copy and paste here...done...
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If you have 3 or 4 pics on the album page and you check each of the boxs...when you generate code... it'll do them all at one shot...
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sweet! thanks man!
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DUDE!! the yellow craftsman is midengine BUT steering column is in from of the engine, wouldnt that be great for a/p s/p or b/p? short wheelbase, light, fast :D its really cool too, ive never seen anything like it before!
-Phil
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They come out just a "tad" fuzzy, but they load quick...but the original (full size) is still clear...
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DUDE!! the yellow craftsman is midengine BUT steering column is in from of the engine, wouldnt that be great for a/p s/p or b/p? short wheelbase, light, fast :D its really cool too, ive never seen anything like it before!
-Phil
OK for AP or FX, but too short for SP, CP, or BP and you can't move the wheel base...Not good for IMOW (must have steering behind engine)
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wow i had no idea what i was talkin about! sry man, but look at the frame, its all tube in the rear right? im thinkin f/x! would look really awesome!! nothin like it! thats for sure...
-Phil
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Going back to initial suggestion of the 44 CID power plant, Sean can maybe get away with it where he's running, but USLMRA Rules Squidd's citing up there wouldn't allow it... AP would be limited to max 8hp Tecumseh or 19 CID Briggs, and FX is limited to 465cc single.
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why couldnt you run this frame in bp? Is there a minimun wheelbase in bp?
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B/P: All overhead valve V-twin 4 stroke engines, 20hp and under. 42†minimum unaltered wheelbase. Mid engine frames are not allowed. 6†minimum front wheels. 8†minimum rear wheels.
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well, thats a bummer. i guess ill just ahve to race my one race a year with it. Itll be pretty much an fx only with a full bore BP engine on it.
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Just have to find an OHV Single to build for it and build the other one into a BP.
Double the pleasure, double the fun! :rocknana: :rocknana:
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yeah i love that yellow thing like i wish it was sitting in my garage but build both i'm with g-team on this on it would be saweet having 2 race mowers.
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B/P: All overhead valve V-twin 4 stroke engines, 20hp and under. 42” minimum unaltered wheelbase. Mid engine frames are not allowed. 6” minimum front wheels. 8” minimum rear wheels.
how come you can use the 44 cube engine in bp? Mine is a 40 cube, and its rated at 21hp?
Is it a 'technicality' where the 44 cube engine was rated at 20 hp somewhere?
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There is Officially only one 44 CID Briggs Intek approved by the USLMRA. Big debate about it on the USLMRA Yahoo Group earlier this year, a bigger one in e-mail off the board, but briggs did rate a 44 CID engine at 20 hp for John Deere in 2006, so that opened the door. Since the USLMRA rules allow a maximum of 20hp rating, the ruling on the single model was appropriate within the guidelines established.
However... Model number is stamped on one valve cover on the Intek, which of course could very easily be damaged and need replacement! Valve covers are interchangeable left to right and replacement covers are not stamped.
G-Team's argument in this matter was that the 40 CID and 44 CID block are identical with exception to bore. The rules allow internal modification, thus it would be possible to bore the 40 CID to 44 CID, wherein denying the 44 only allows for additional costs in motor preparation. If realisitically your 40 is a 44... it only costs you more to bore it, buy a set of pistons and rings, and you've got one, why deny it? With the Briggs classisification of the one model it is approved and legal, and with replacement of the valve cover any 44 becomes that 44.
Loopholes dude! ;)
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Ahhh... THAT is why i do no form of regulated racing.
i just like to build stuff and race stuff.... i dont like all the loophole :censored: stuff.... not my game.
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Finding loopholes,and proving you're right is half the fun!
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i totally understand and respect that, its just not my bag.
i like to build hot rods, and mowers and stuff, mostly for my own enjoyment. When things get too technical, i get flustered, and it takes the fun outa it for me. Maybe if i knew more about hte certain thing, but i keep myself spread pretty thin with my family, job, my EMT training, my motorcycles, my shooting habit, and the mowers, plus whatever else peaks my interest!... if i just had one thing, i would be great at it, like some guys seem to get!
I know guys out at the dirt track that LIVE for that new rule book to come out so they can disect it, its their whole fun is finding the loopholes! :bash:
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Does anyone know who might have made these mowers for craftsman? i cant find anything about it online, like what engine, or any info at all about them!
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Manufactured what engine for Craftsman?
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exactly!
all i know is it was 6hp.
id like to know more about this mower....
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:rofl: OK!
Maybe check e-bay for old owners manuals.
http://www.mytractorforum.com/ <~~ Try these guys... several folks there that restore old mowers, they might be able to help as well.
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I dont think I would put the twin on that little one,it would be just too much work.You would have to modify the hood mounts and then you would have no place for your feet,and then you would have to compleatly rebuild the rear of that chassis to make it stiff enough.I think you should just ship it to me so I could put it in "inventory" for later nudge nudge knowwhatimean.
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well. i got a couple other engines in inventory... like a 14hp vanguard single, and an 11hp flathead.... but i think it will look freakin sweet with that big ol twin sticking off the sides!
YEAH!!! Its almost mower building day!!!!!!!!
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Ok, guys!
i went down to Pacific steel today and got some metal to start my build.
i got a 6 inch piece of 2.25 inch ID pipe to make my bearinged spindles out of,
2 -5 foot pieces foot of thin wall 3/4 x 3/4 tubing
and a 40 inch piece of 1 inch by 3 inch tubing for my front beam..
Got it all for 15 bucks. not bad for new steel!
Going to the Cummins Shop tomorrow to turn the yellow mower into a roller!!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_steel.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/steel.jpg)
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Heres my rear axle mock up. Its a thick wall chromolly hollow 1.25 inch axle. 36 inches long with my Circle 5 inch wheels, and dunlap 7 inch wide dirt track tires, sprocket, and disk brake.
Mean looking!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_RearAxle.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/RearAxle.jpg)
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So i had some time saturday night after the 'ol lady's Christmas party to sneak down to the shop and work on the mower a bit.
i got my rear end all tacked up, adn looking good, and started building my frontend, complete with some spindles that i am experimenting with.
Its all coming together pretty nice, for having one evening of work done to it!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_newmowerbuild10dec065.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/newmowerbuild10dec065.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_newmowerbuild10dec064.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/newmowerbuild10dec064.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_newmowerbuild10dec063.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/newmowerbuild10dec063.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_newmowerbuild10dec062.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/newmowerbuild10dec062.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_newmowerbuild10dec061.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/newmowerbuild10dec061.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_newmowerbuild10dec06.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/newmowerbuild10dec06.jpg)
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:woo: dude!! that things guna rock after u get a twin on it :willynilly:
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that things looks sweet!! all ready! just looks like it wants to GOOOOOO!...
question thought, are you gunna leave the front narrow like it is? or are you gunna bring the tires to the outside?
-Phil
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*whispers to phil* hes making his own front axel ;) dont look like hes quite done it yet tho
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I can't wait to see this mower done!!!! I really like the look it has!!!
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*whispers to phil* hes making his own front axel ;) dont look like hes quite done it yet tho
LOL!
:rofl:
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thaks guys! its fun doing this work! I cant wait untill im terrorizing the neighborhood on this beast!
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that thing is waaaaaaaaaaaay to cool man!!!! i wish there were some of them mowers like that in my area!!!
wow man... i can't even tell you how much i like that thing!!
-=CreechFan
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You are planning on doing something different with that frame aren't you? :eyebrow:
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hhahahaha, that mower is a beast!!!!!:drool:, great work man
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You are planning on doing something different with that frame aren't you? :eyebrow:
oh yeah....
Im just getting it all lined up right now. then ill build a subframe outa the 3/4 x 3/4 tubing i bought. all the bolts holding it all together will eventually be welded solid at the seams, and bolts removed.
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That's cool! You had me worried there for a minute looking at those bolt holes through that tube right behind the pan... I could just see everything folded up there first time the torque outta that twin was laid into the drive chain.
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i know.. i was hopeing i could get away with it, but.... nope!
I hope i can keep the minimal look it has though....
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Heres my rear axle mock up. Its a thick wall chromolly hollow 1.25 inch axle. 36 inches long with my Circle 5 inch wheels, and dunlap 7 inch wide dirt track tires, sprocket, and disk brake.
Mean looking!
how wide is your axel man?
and if ya dont mind me asking.......
how much was the tire, hub, and wheel combo?
-=CreechFan
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Its a thick wall chromolly hollow 1.25 inch axle. 36 inches long
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LMAO, my eyes skimed right over the 36 part MAAAHAHAHA :bash:
thanks George!!
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LOL!
Itll end up being right at 38 inches scrub to scrub, so i can race at my local race event, but when im on the road, i can streach it out to almost 42 inches.
My tires and wheels and hubs are all ebay specials. I payed a couple hundred for the tires/wheels, and just a few bucks for the generic hubs.....
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Big motor's in little chassis get me all warm and fuzzy inside. :P
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Big motor's in little chassis get me all warm and fuzzy inside. :P
me too!
i built an 84 Mazda Rx7 with a 94 cobra engine in it!!!
That thing was FUN!
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me too!
i built an 84 Mazda Rx7 with a 94 cobra engine in it!!!
That thing was FUN!
hahahahaha!!!!!, that must have been one fast car :roflbow: :rofl: :lol2: :lol3: :weefly:
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I got my spindles! they are pretty nice!!
The only bad thing is they are a 1/2 inch bolt thru the bearings, and then a 5/8 for the wheel.
BUt thats ok, i got some grade 10 cap screws from work to replace the grade 5 or so bolts that came with it!
i had them made with 10 degrees, and they are going to work out NICE!
If i wanst so darn sick with strep and a temp of 104, id be out building my frontend!
Good thing for some vicoden, or i wouldt be up to even getting on here!
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You get some slack then for being sick, teasing us with no pics. :noplease:
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heres a few pics of the spindles. they arent too bad. nothing like the guys sell on here, but WAY better then the yard kart spindles off ebay.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_frontspindles2.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/frontspindles2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_frontspindles1.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/frontspindles1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_frontspindles.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/frontspindles.jpg)
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Look good from the outside...
Concern would be that you'll be carrying all your weight on one single very thin groove cut into the outer race and held in place by a C clip....???
Have you considered a thicker wall tubing (say schd 80) and then lathe cut a shelf for the bearings to sit on....?? Much more secure and less likely to pop and drop on you...
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Look good from the outside...
Concern would be that you'll be carrying all your weight on one single very thin groove cut into the outer race and held in place by a C clip....???
Have you considered a thicker wall tubing (say schd 80) and then lathe cut a shelf for the bearings to sit on....?? Much more secure and less likely to pop and drop on you...
thats what id like to have, but for now im going to make a spacer to go in between them, cause i dont trust that c clip either!
Ill take a piece of pipe htat just fits over the 1/2 inch bolt, and mill it down to where it sits just perfect inbetween the two bearings.
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That "sounds" like a fix, but think it thru...
Even if you have full spacers on the bolt both sides of the bearing s and inbetween...top to bottom...
All your doing is holding the "inner races" in place...
The spindle barrel (pipe) can still slip up over the outer races and the only thing holding it from doing so is the "one" C clip on the upper bearing...(upward force)
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How about you install your spacer between the bearings as you intend to do. Find the sweet spot and scribe a line INSIDE the housing. Then remove the spacer/pipe and drill a hole in the spindle where the spacer/pipe would be. Reinstall the spacer/pipe to the height of the mark you previously made. Take out your welder and weld that inner spacer right to the spindle housing thru the hole you just made (plug weld). You may wish to add another one, but that's up to you!
Now when this is bolted in place onto your clevis...the bearings will stay in place!
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ok, i see what your saying. So i could get a piece of thin wall, that fits just to the inside of my spindle berrol, and do a couple plug welds to hold it in place. thatll make a solid lip for the bearings to seat against?
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If you can find one or cut one to fit..that would be a solution..
Technically... you only need the "lip" or shelf "above" the lower bearing...the c clip will still be holding on the top...but thats OK the lower shelf is way stronger and able to carry the weight...
If you can't find a useable piece of pipe...how about another "outer race" of the same size ...tapped into place and plug welded ...??
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If you can find one or cut one to fit..that would be a solution..
Technically... you only need the "lip" or shelf "above" the lower bearing...the c clip will still be holding on the top...but thats OK the lower shelf is way stronger and able to carry the weight...
If you can't find a useable piece of pipe...how about another "outer race" of the same size ...tapped into place and plug welded ...??
hey now thats a great idea! Ive got a few old sets of bearings laying around! Ill take em to work and fix em up good!!
Oh, another thing im going to do is replace the bracket with heim joints so i have more adjustability.. withthe 1/2 inch grade 10 bolt, i can get heims super cheap, but i cant get the 5/8 ones without spending like 30 bucks each!
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i got my 5/8 heim joints from jegs for around 12 bucks a piece they are the economy ones but i havent had any problems yet
hope this helps
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kinda like this ( i dont have the longer bolt yet, so i just put one in to see how it fits.... works Grrrreat!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/th_DSC00001-3.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/DSC00001-3.jpg)