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Messages - dropzone

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1
Kohler Engines / CH20 Twin Lifter's
« on: April 10, 2014, 07:14:28 PM »
I have read here and a couple other places that Small block Chevy lifters will work in a Command Twin. If they will is there any thing special i need to do. What about the rocker arms will they also work? Also does any of you know the part number for the head studs, I want to swap out the head bolts and use studs instead.

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Kohler Engines / Re: Head question
« on: April 05, 2014, 08:23:33 PM »
Hey thanks Tinrabbit!

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Kohler Engines / Head question
« on: April 05, 2014, 09:18:07 AM »
Is there any difference in the CH20 and CV20 heads? It's a CH20S Spec 64510 S/N 3319007311 The engine has a bad valve guide. Also will say a CH25 Head work on this motor?

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Kohler Engines / Re: Ch20 v twin Carb problem
« on: March 22, 2014, 07:20:27 PM »
Is it true that Kohler changed the head gaskets for these motors? Does any of you know the part number? I am going to tare it down completely so I will need all the gaskets.

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Kohler Engines / Re: Ch20 v twin Carb problem
« on: March 21, 2014, 09:16:37 PM »
I think I found the problem it's a blown head gasket on the #2 cylinder. I didn't think anything about using a leak down tester thanks for reminding me. I suppose a tare down is in order. 

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Kohler Engines / Re: Ch20 v twin Carb problem
« on: March 20, 2014, 03:56:48 PM »
I replaced the plugs twice and it has 155 - 160 psi both cylinders. I haven't done the leak down test yet. I did check the coils by pulling a wire at a time and it was the same on both. A leak down test will be my next step.

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Kohler Engines / Ch20 v twin Carb problem
« on: March 19, 2014, 08:55:26 PM »
I'm working on a Kohler Family 3KHXS.6242GC, Model CH20S, Spec 64510, S/N 3319007311. I am looking for a Carburetor that will fit other then the factory emission friendly carb. The carb on it is gummed up bad and I cant get it to run right. It idles fine and the high speed is good it's off idle that is giving me fits, I have soaked it over night 3 times, sprayed it out with carb cleaner and blown it out with high pressure air from my compressor each time. I even replaced all the seals and gaskets and slow idle needle valve so it's rebuilt. This isn't my first rodeo but for the life of me I cant get this thing to work like it should I think it is a loosing battle. The guy I got the motor from let it set for a few winters with un-treated gas and you guys know what happens. I'm looking for a non emissions carburetor that will fit if there is a alternative. I do have two good carburetors off a 18 hp Briggs opposed twin if you guys know of an adapter that will work would be nice also.

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Briggs Flathead / Re: another rod question
« on: July 05, 2009, 09:35:37 PM »
dyoung thats all that matters. If it works dont change it. thanks for the info

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Briggs Flathead / Re: another rod question
« on: July 02, 2009, 06:24:06 PM »
 I think mmsports is thinking about the piston interfearing with the flow in the chamber but .050 is not alot to come out of the block. I can see where it would make more power because of the compression. Might want to watch for detonation due to the rise in the compression. I dont know though may not be enough to matter.

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Briggs Flathead / Re: another rod question
« on: July 01, 2009, 10:41:49 PM »
It's not going to be raced. I have a 16 opp in a golfcart and I picked up a 18 complete for 20$ for parts. I'm going to use the rotating assembly from the 18 if I need it. The post about using the 40 rods got me to thinking. Thanks for the info. ;)

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Briggs Flathead / another rod question
« on: June 29, 2009, 10:39:37 PM »
I didn't want to hijack another post. I was reading and I Quote dyoung14
"i dont know the sizes but the numbers, but i do know that a 40 ci has a longer rod than the 42, i have a 42 that i put 40 rods on my 42 crank and didnt mill the pistons, i put 40 ci heads on and have plenty of clearence, and it runs like a bat out of  well you get the point" Will this really work putting 40 rods on a 42 and not mill the pistons?  Would I use the 40 pistons or the 42?  Ive read that the pistons need to have .05 milled :confused:







     
 

 

 

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Briggs Flathead / Re: 18 hp opposed
« on: June 22, 2009, 08:30:19 PM »
I got the engine today and I can see the PTO side is longer. I need to use the cam gear from the horizontal right ? If needed should I shem the crank on the PTO side? Thank you for the info.

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Briggs Flathead / 18 hp opposed
« on: June 21, 2009, 10:51:42 PM »
Is the crankshaft in a 18 hp opposed horizontal the same as the vertical. I have a chance to get a vertical shaft to use for parts for for my horizontal cheep just wondering if the cranks will interchange.

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Briggs Flathead / Re: opposed twin rod
« on: May 28, 2009, 08:52:12 AM »
thats what I thought just wanted to make sure thanks alot ;)

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Briggs Flathead / opposed twin rod
« on: May 28, 2009, 07:29:26 AM »
Hello, I have a B/S opposed twin, The engine is stock except I removed the govener and added a 2 into 1 Header. Im rebuildeing the engine and need a little advice on the rods. Im not a lawn mower racer, the engine is in a golf cart used for hunting and fishing. Im not trying to make it go fast I just needed torque (This engine has plenty)to pull a jon boat down the trail. I read a post here (opposed twin mods) it was suggested that the top rod needed to be fliped over. Mine is a horizontal shaft engine so Im assuming the top rod would be the flywheel side. Does the oil hole need to be turned facing up, facing the cam? You guys have a good thing going here I enjoy reading your post. Thank you for yor time.

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