There are 5-6 video of the 2011 drag races held in Sumner, Mo. on youtube. Search for Lawnmower Drag racing Sumner, Mo Oct. 2011.

Do you have any races planned for 2011?

right now i'm running a 500 peerless ragb thinkn switching it to a 700 peerless tranny when i find one, which should be simple but having thoughts of running a 1 to 1 ragb to kept from having to shift, not sure this will work in a drag racing mower or not, was running a stock 11hp briggs switchn to a not so stock 18hp oppy, were racing 100ft drags, some on dirt some on tar, what is the norm in the drag racing world? any input on perfered drivetrans would help me make up my mind as of now i shift my 500 ragb during the race but hope my new motor will give me enough power to kept from having to shift   i like to stick with the live axl with my disc brakes setup on it. any input good or bad is great thanks

Like everyone said the 700 won't hold up. I never dumped the clutch on mine but stock 23hp eventually did a number on the shift keys. I plan on using a ragb I got off a Skagg mower deck with a centrifugal clutch on the output. I need a 1" bore cent. clutch if anyone has one. Haven't had a problem with live axle.
J19LM

Here is a link to my mower. Built to go straight. The sheetmetal is untouched other than needing paint.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osMNUUjVo1U&feature=search

Yea I should have listened. I went with the 700 only because I have 3 of them and it was easy to mount in its stock location. I have a Superior 1:1 RAGB that I could have started with. . Where would the ideal placement of the centrifugal clutch be? On the input side of the RAGB. Do you run a jackshaft between the Ragb to rear axle sprocket or directly from the Ragb to the rear axle sprocket. With the 700 I am running 8-6 and 13-46. In 5th gear I have a overall ratio of 6-1. At that ratio it feels fast and safe. I imagine I can use most of what I have allready with the Ragb. I haven't dumped the clutch on the 700 yet, so I should be ok for awhile. Wish there were others here in KC interested in racing. I have a couple 820's and various other transaxles I would let go cheep. I also picked up a Murray frame from a guy that is set up for a 820. I would just about give the mower away if someone had a interest to make a racer out of it. I would even throw in the 820.

Jay19LM

Was wondering if anyone has swapped parts between the 500 and 700 trannys. A quick visual and the 500 has wider gears and the shift keys are square on the ends. The keys appear to be flattened out, they slide thru the gears easily, but they may be designed that way.
I was going to use the 500 gears because the pinon gear appears to be steel and the case is also broken.  Its a 500-515

thanks
J19LM

I agree George. I used spindles flipped last year. Grind the welds and use the spindle side for the axle and vice versa. Makes the racer lower and wider and does not change the camber if done right. I don't think he actually  means upside down.

Great replys. Quess I should have said "end for end". 2nstoys explained a little better what I am doing. I wondered how much difference in steering geometry there would be. On a gocart style spindle the load/lever is between the two fulcrum points and on a L-spindle its on the outside. I will post how it works out when done.

Up side down and all the angles will be wrong... you'll be wobblin' like a three wheel shopping cart..

Kinda like; Back in Pa. my Grandad had a Ford 8n tractor that had a governor on the steering wheel. He would let us drive it on the country road as long as we stayed close to home. Being a kid, fast was better. Untill, you got going too fast and the front end would develope a shimmy. A terrible shimmy that would work its way up to the steering wheel. After a couple times of the steering wheel beating your hands to death, you quickly developed a sixth sense of how fast to drive the thing. 

Question to those who have drag raced or not. This might be a crystal ball question. What would be a optimum distance to drag race running a stock engine goverened at 4000 or so rpm. And what would be the ideal tranny to axle gearing. I am getting ready to order a rear axle and sprocket for my drag mower. When I raced circle I ran a 800 transaxle, so I have no experience running a 700. Maybe I should concentrate on the overall engine to rear wheel ratio, 8-1, 7-1, 6-1 ?.  Also a 52 tooth rear sprocket looks real common to buy. I guess the question would be is if you were going to drag race your mower(up to 25hp governed at 4000, 16" rear tires) what gears would you use. From all that I read a 8-5 to 12-48 would probably get me in the ballpark. I am honestly wanting to take some of the trial and error out of the equation and I really don't want to spend a lot of money on gears that I can't use. Yea I know,,thats racing.
Thanks to all who reply.

jay19lm