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Messages - outlawmower

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1
Kohler Engines / Re: Kohler mechanical fuel pump
« on: November 21, 2010, 09:04:45 pm »
Electric all the way. Like Squidd said, starts 10x easier especially if you are not running a choke. Holly "red" fuel pump is the best to use with a regulator. Once you get it set, you won't have to mess with it again.

Another thing- the "red" pump is for gas, and the "blue" is for Nitro, E85, ECT...

2
Garden Tractor Pulling / Re: just getting started
« on: May 23, 2010, 12:33:50 pm »
Looks good, BONDO Won't hurt anything. I had to use plenty of that when fixing my panels on the Wheel Horse. It's good experience as well.

Overall, Looking great! Can't wait to see the finished product!

3
Garden Tractor Pulling / Re: just getting started
« on: May 21, 2010, 08:20:39 pm »
cool, thanks outlaw, was leaning towards that. Will do!! I used a grinding stone in my die grinder to grind the welds on the flares but probably a better/smoother way. Can anyone reveal any tricks of the trade? What kind of abrasive disc would be most effective/ what grit.......technique? Is the abrasive disc even the way to go?

A sanding disc with a rough grit will or should do fine. I use that with a right angle grinder and usually the amount of pressure you put on it determines how much it will cut.

4
Garden Tractor Pulling / Re: just getting started
« on: May 20, 2010, 05:40:52 pm »
Take a filler plate and tac weld it in the back. Make sure it will stick with all the use and vibarations. Then use BONDO to make it smooth.

5
Briggs Flathead / Re: New Flat-Head build...
« on: May 11, 2010, 07:30:13 pm »
Thanks for the info! Should come usefull when I begin the process of building this thing!

6
Kohler Engines / Re: K341 in a Racer
« on: May 11, 2010, 07:29:19 pm »
Personally I would use a 10HP K-Series. But thats me due to the fact I have a little more experience with those and just those. I have gotten my puller to run quite well before I sold it. Just takes time, and some R&D to get it right but when you do...hold on.

One thing I think personally is that the smaller the bore the faster you can move the weight of the rod, piston, ECT...

Yes I know, Many people will use a leight weight alternative such as Vogel, or JE pistons. But, When I first pulled I used a factory piston that was .030 Over Sized and A large cam with a lightweight rod and this kept me competitive. One thing about the kohlers is, They make power any way you modify them. So I wouldn't be worried about some other guys trying to outrun me with a Briggs.

7
Briggs Flathead / Re: New Flat-Head build...
« on: May 10, 2010, 04:13:50 pm »
Starting to collect some parts today,

Opposed Twin Coil
3.5" Round 6061 Aluminum
#26 & #30 Kohler K-Series Carb's
Set of double springs and retainers from EC Dist.


Still needed:

10HP Block
11HP Crank (Old Style)
Piston and Rings (.020 Over)
10HP Rod
Flywheel
10HP Cylinder Head
Valves
Camshaft
Lifters


Outlaw

8
Kohler Engines / Re: K341 in a Racer
« on: May 09, 2010, 08:04:40 pm »
Easy fix. If you use a light vogel flywheel or any flywheel for that matter the briggs model 28 plastic bolt on fins bolt directly to a kohler flywheel made for a cub cadet clutch driver. We run a set on a open rpm 14hp. The fins are bolted to a midwest flywheel. It turns 7400 and has for 4 years untouched. Never a problem with the fins.

I have heard of this, but never seen anyone use it before. Interesting how that works...

9
Briggs Flathead / Re: Rod Specs Question
« on: May 07, 2010, 04:06:57 pm »
I don't have the exact numbers off-hand but I do know that the 11 Rod is longer. Everything else, Wrist Pin, and Journal Size are the same.

10
Briggs Flathead / Re: New Flat-Head build...
« on: May 06, 2010, 04:29:12 pm »
I'd like to see you make an OHV head...

It is very possible. I would need someone to test it out though and a head for doing the measuring and what-not off of. Also, The metal would be pricy for a chunk of ALUM. that big. We'll see though...

11
Briggs Flathead / Re: New Flat-Head build...
« on: May 06, 2010, 07:22:53 am »
Are you going to make a cam on the CNC machine? You can make your design on Desktop Dyno, then make on the CNC machine.

Not sure yet, I might.

Rooster, Thanks! I start class in 2 weeks so this will give me some time to more prepared.

Also, Is it possible to use the crank with the gaint counter balance hanging off in a block that didn't have it? The hole for the pin is there but not sure if it would work.

12
Briggs Flathead / New Flat-Head build...
« on: May 05, 2010, 09:41:46 pm »
Im going back to machinist school to finally get my degree and need a new project. Since I have sold all my pulling stuff I have decided to start collecting some odds and ends for this project since the motors seem to liter the world today.

Project Description: Building a Stroker / 10HP Using 11HP Crank.

Now, I know people are going to start bashing and stuff about my trying this. Saying that it can't be done. Thats fine, But I need a new project so I can do some stuff on the CAD machine.

Now, I have done some math in the process and here is what I came up with and why I have said it will work.

10HP Deck Height: 7.643
11HP Deck Height: 7.6499

In order to find Deck Height (Or Pop-Up)- Measure from TDC and add ***

1/2 Stroke+ Rod Length+ Compression Height+ ***= Deck Height

1.3125+ 4.8695+ 1.436+ .072= 7.69 Deck Height

7.643 (10HP DH)- 7.69 DH= .047 Pop-Up

So, This says to me, That I will have some pop-up but not enough to make a difference. This will allow me ample clearance for the factory head and the plug. One thing that I will have to check will be to see if the crank will clear the inside of the block of the 10HP. Sometimes the crank can hit the side and I may have to mill out a chunk and either weld in or replace with a cover.

I have some other ideas in my head that I am throwing around, but I'll post those up a little later after I get those down on paper.

Outlaw



13
Yes you can convert these motors. Just shoot Flatheadpuller a PM and he can give you some more details.

14
Garden Tractor Pulling / Re: Thinking of getting into it
« on: November 21, 2009, 06:02:20 pm »
Squidd, If you need any help or have any questions feel free to shoot me a PM. Be glad to help anytime.

15
Garden Tractor Pulling / Re: just getting started
« on: November 05, 2009, 09:53:15 pm »
You never really want it on the wheelie bars. Your goal is to have the front tires light on the ground or just bouncing. A perfect setup would be bounce a couple times and hang two inches off the ground the majority of the pull. I would set them a half inch inside the rules for height and length from center of axle to rear of wheelie wheel or what ever the rule states and leave them alone. In my years of pulling I have never tuned with wheelie bars. You'll put more power to the ground with the front end 2 inches off the ground then you will running on the wheelie bars.

X2, Follow this and you will be ok!

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