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Messages - jeff_lalonde

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1
Chassis / Re: EC front axle question
« on: October 16, 2012, 01:44:36 pm »
Quote from: Burwell555 on October 16, 2012, 12:24:05 pm
Alot of guys buy the EC plates and build their own axles so it is hard to say what you have in all honesty. I use their end plates but the rest is all my own, personally. Im not trying to cut down or ridicule anybody, but if you havent been around much of this and don not have a good understanding of what a front axle does, you may be setting yourself up for failure. This is where the off the shelf axles like EC's are worth every bit they cost. Their is waaaaaaaaay more to these than most realize. Often times if your adding front brakes, depending on their size can dictate what you will end up. I have found that big brakes make it extremely hard to get it all right, or at least as close as you can.

I do understand what the front axle does was only curious about the plates because I have seen other setups (ryker racing) that does not use these plates. I am a welder fabricator so I have no problems with the build portion of this and have read plenty on info on here to know the proper * to build them on. I will not be running front brakes so that won't be an issue. One of the main goals in this build is to do as much as we can without subbing out to other people or machine shops. I will be the first person to purchase something if we don't have the ability to do it right the first time.

2
Chassis / Re: EC front axle question
« on: October 16, 2012, 11:55:18 am »
Quote from: cycloneracer on October 16, 2012, 10:51:34 am
It is for adjusting.  Great piece.  Never comes loose or moves because of the plate and the way it is designed. 

The axle is worth every dollar.

Already have same design axle on my current mower, not sure if it is EC's or not but looks like it. The reason i am asking is because I am helping a friend build his machine now and we will be fabricating the axle and was wondering if we would need the extra plates or if we could leave the
 out. I bet all the EC product are worth every penny.

3
Chassis / EC front axle question
« on: October 16, 2012, 10:30:02 am »
I see on the ec front axles there is a back plate welded to axle then an end plate on top of that. Is the end plate necesarry or could you just bolt your heim joints direct to back plate on axle? What is the purpose of the end plate?

4
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: Comparing engine benefits
« on: October 15, 2012, 11:10:23 am »
yeah I didn't think the old heavy weights would be much use around this sport lol, Maybe on a pulling tractor it would be ok.

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Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: Comparing engine benefits
« on: October 14, 2012, 01:21:30 pm »
Quote from: Jim Knutson on October 14, 2012, 11:43:17 am
the 33 is an ohv AVS engine.

Briggs & Stratton single cylinder L-head repair manual list a 33 cast iron block though.

6
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: Comparing engine benefits
« on: October 14, 2012, 10:58:24 am »
Quote from: BIG AL 202 on October 13, 2012, 11:15:02 pm
THERE IS A 33ci SINGLE FROM BRIGGS.
I do not see a 32 cu in in my books but they do list a 30 & 33 cu in but there heavy cast iron engines.

7
Briggs Flathead / Re: 28 cu in crank nut VS bolt
« on: October 13, 2012, 06:20:20 pm »
Quote from: The Tank on October 13, 2012, 05:51:24 pm
All of the stock OHV rods Ive seen have OHV marked on them.

Thanks again guys.

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Briggs Flathead / Re: 28 cu in crank nut VS bolt
« on: October 13, 2012, 05:46:35 pm »
Quote from: cycloneracer on October 13, 2012, 05:04:12 pm
In a stock engine either crank will be fine. 

The cranks with the nut tend to be stronger.

Well that answers my question then, I will use the crank with nut for main engine and use the other as my back up. Was just wondering if there were other reasons you chose to use that specific crank. Instead of a new thread I have one other question that someone might be able to answer. Is there anyway to tell if the rod in a particular engine is the updated OHV rod because I hear some of the newer flatheads could have the newer stronger rod in them.

9
Briggs Flathead / 28 cu in crank nut VS bolt
« on: October 13, 2012, 05:01:35 pm »
I have searched and read everything I could find, Everyone says run the crank with the nut rather then the bolt. Now only reason I have found that everyone has come to this conclusion is because of the removable eccentrics. Is there any other reason why I would want to use the nut crank over the bolt crank? At the local track we race we are not able to modify any internals and must run the eccentrics in the block. Would it be beneficial to have the non removable eccentrics considering we have to leave them in anyway? I am asking because I have two blocks which are going to be freshened for next season but one is bolt other is nut and I want to use the correct one for my main engine and keep other just for spare.

10
Briggs Flathead / Re: Lighter flywheel other then billet
« on: October 11, 2012, 04:52:45 pm »
I plan to spend more time and effort to build and set-up my chassis as I understand a stock engine only has so much & the chassis is the best place to start. As for the engine rules, Everything has to be built with stock B&S parts. Maximum .020 bore, port & polish, shave the area between valves and bore (eyebrow) custom exhaust, & filter & adapter. You can always check the link below I have the full rules posted there if you want to look at them.

http://www.facebook.com/groups/430304063672505/

something I forgot to add is that I must run transaxle also, No chain drive, No transmissions or 90 degree gearboxes etc. unfortunately I do not have and cannot find a 820 transaxle either, So I have a couple 800 series with only 3/4" axle but they have worked out so far. I would love to find an 820 to build and drop the 017 in,

11
Briggs Flathead / Re: Flathead parts
« on: October 11, 2012, 10:54:05 am »
Quote from: bountyhunter on October 11, 2012, 10:40:35 am
are the 11HP (25,s) same valve stuff
LOL had like 4 parts engines tryed to sell and noone wanted them guess put them on the shelf than
I have three 25's laying around, What should we keep off these 25's that will work in the 28's.

12
Briggs Flathead / Re: Lighter flywheel other then billet
« on: October 11, 2012, 10:52:23 am »
I wish I could run the ARC billet wheel, but the rules I run state must be unaltered stock briggs & stratton flywheel.

13
Briggs Flathead / Lighter flywheel other then billet
« on: October 10, 2012, 05:34:42 pm »
Now I know right off the bat it is dangerous to modify a stock flywheel in anyway at all. So my question is, Is there a flywheel out there from another engine that will fit the 28cu in flathead that is smaller in diameter thus weighing less. In the karting world we used to run 3hp flywheel because of smaller diameter and less weight, only thing we had to do was run a coil bracket that would move the coil closer to the smaller wheel. We are not aloud to run the billet wheels where I run.

14
Briggs Flathead / Re: how do you get rid of threads in exhaust port ?
« on: October 05, 2012, 09:04:44 am »
You can grind them out, But from the knowledge that I have learned on here the stock port starts out too big to begin with so you don't want to enlarge it anymore that's where the all thread nipple George mentions comes into play. It gets rid of the threads and gives you a little material to work with when you port it after also. Someone correct me if I am wrong but that is what I get from all the other post's I have read on here.

15
Briggs Flathead / Re: timming key
« on: October 04, 2012, 09:09:21 pm »
How much can you safely advance timing with offset keys on a stock 28cu in flathead running pump gas?

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