Heymow - Lawnmower Racing Forum
Mower Building / Setup Help => Drag Mowers => Topic started by: mtdfatboy on December 11, 2008, 12:47:44 pm
-
Just wondering I have a chance to pick up a mtd 18hp b/s vtwin for free but it has a hydrostat
trans. Any thoughts? :confused:
-
no, because when you speed them up they over heat and break down the lube and break the transaxel.
-
hydrostats are no good on anykind of racing
-
Just wondering I have a chance to pick up a mtd 18hp b/s vtwin for free but it has a hydrostat
trans. Any thoughts? :confused:
If you don't want it, then tell us your location, and someone will take it.
-
I WILL TAKE THE TRACTOR ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEAS OF WHAT TRANS I SHOULD USE FOR DRAG RACING?
-
What are the racers using in your club?
-
Thats just the thing there are no clubs anywhere in the state of ohio.
-
Where you live at?....lol
There are several drag racing clubs in the USA.
-
they use peerless transaxles. i think is what you call them.
-
the club up here uses all kinds the out law class uses any type tranny that will work but still has to have a lawn mower engine.
-
sorry for the last post computer wigged out on me. There is no type of mower racing in ohio (that I have found). Myself and some other guys would like to start a club in central Ohio area but first need to get a couple mower going to get more people interested. The rules page that was posted on here helps a lot now just comes the build and a somewhat good start to a build would be helpful. I have gathered the cart brakes and jr dragster rack and pinion steering for my ride, now I just need some help with the drivetrain. I have done a lot of looking through the forums and I cant find any driveline forums for drag racing. What would a good rear end ratio be? Would it still be smart to go with a 9 to 1 like the round track mowers? I know I'll have a lot of try and try again builds with testing just really need a base to start with. I have gathered a couple of good suggestions,wheelie bars and junk the hydrostat.
Thank you for everybody's input so far keep them coming and I will start posting pictures of the build hopefully to help out new racers in the future!!!!
-
thats cool keep us posted.
Just an idea on the wheelie bars, leave them up about an inch to inch and a half off the ground. Cause a lot of guys here, put them flat on the ground, and there is no give any where so some thing breaks.
And as far as a step by step build, remember that you are drag racing not circle tracking, so in my opinion all that bracing would add a lot of weight. I know some one will chime in and say that it is for frame flex, I wasnt saying not to add any bracing, just maybe not as much as the roundy rounds.
Also for drag racing, please if you use a 700 peerles, make sure you make a plate and bushing like George does, cause if not, your gona break the input housing on the bottom plate. Ive seen it many times. One of the best transaxels is the 820 peerless. It has the 1 in axels.
Any ways keep us posted.
-
ANY IDEAS ON WHAT KIND OF TRACTOR I CAN FIND A 820 PEERLESS IN?
-
http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=8782.msg94524;topicseen#new
-
Head down to your local drag strip and talk to them, they might be willing to let you run on test and tune night. You might be able to stir up some interest.
-
I am very good freinds with the guy that runs our dragstrip as my father and I have raced there for 12 years or so. I have already talked to him and he is ok with it, I just need to get the build underway.
-
My buddy has been experimenting with hydro rearends hes got one weve put through quiet a bit we have a temp gauge hooked up and we have came to the conclusion that if they really get over 210 degrees that is when theyll crap out so they are more for drag racing rather than anything but if you change the springs inside and run auto tranny fluid through it you should be fine with an 8 horse briggs hes runnin right at 37 mph so not bad for hydro