Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - Huffy044

Pages: [1]
1
Coffee Shop / Person in Washington wanting 8 hp
« on: March 16, 2015, 04:44:04 pm »
Would the person from Washington wanting the spare 8 hp Briggs I have please email or call me? I have misplaced your number.

2
Coffee Shop / Lloyd Terrell
« on: June 07, 2013, 11:49:18 am »

please call me at 804-824-4215

3
Coffee Shop / Turkey Run
« on: November 19, 2012, 02:51:58 pm »
Anyone displaying mowers at the Turkey Run in Daytona?

4
Coffee Shop / Precision Cams and Huffy044
« on: May 18, 2012, 12:01:51 pm »
Guys, I am starting what i hope to be a long relationship with Precision Cams that will help all of us as racers to take our engines to the "Next Level"

I will be assisting Mike by fielding your questions you may have on your cams and getting some new cam profiles out there so some of you can do some "On the Track Testing" As you can imagine the shop work takes a lot of time and hopefully me coming on board and making sure you guys stay in touch with Mike and the Gang at Precision will help all of us.

I have won three National Championships with help from several machine shops and definiately with the Cams that I have gotten from Mike. I have used other cams after a rebuild,and last year I ran one 15 minutes because the grinder promised me a better cam than I had, sorry it would not rev and pull as my old Precision.

So, if I can be of any help please feel free to contact me at  Huffy044@yahoo.com or tdaniels@rocktenn.com, daytime number is 804-843-5275

5
Coffee Shop / Bent Crankshaft
« on: February 19, 2012, 06:29:11 pm »
Just small help here for those of you who like to get things right. Almost all of the crankshafts that I have balanced starting several years ago had anywhere from .001 to .014 runout on the crank journals measured from either end. Most average .006, this causes a 1 X engine speed vibration and depending where it's bent can increase vibration 3X engine speed. The best balance job can still have a serious vibration even though the counter weight has been adjusted proplerly.

Real easy to fix, just takes some time, you will need a dial indicator (you should have one to check crank end play) a magnetic base to hold the indicator and hopfuly a lathe to suspend it while turning. If you dont have a lathe, build a set of Vee Blocks or take a set of front wheel bearings (go kart) and two peices of angle iron. Mount the bearings a 1" or so apart so when the journal is placed on then it will spin easily. Make two of these.

Place the dial indicator on a soild surface next to the crank, place the end of the indicator on the crank and spin it noting the amount of run out. If you get .006, you actually have .003, you are measuring a cirlce so you must cut the reading in half.

Once the high spot is found I have old sumps that I put in a vise with the oposite end of the crank from where I took the reading. With the high spot up, smack it with a soft hammer such as a brass one. Go easy, check it again and you should see the runout decrease. I play with it until I get it to .001. I guarantee this will reduce vibration, add HP, and you did it!

6
Coffee Shop / Track Safety
« on: October 25, 2011, 02:02:41 pm »
Track safety is a huge concern we all have with both racing and around the track. drivers are really good about observing and obeying flags and signals from the people running the track. One huge issue I see is getting everyone to slow down or stop safety when a flag is thrown. The person nearest the flagman will see the falg and if it is red will try to stop immediately. This is great unless the person behind you did not see the flag and plows into you from the rear.

There is a device available to us that is no bigger than a pager and you listen in through a ear peice (or a speaker in your helmet) to all conversation the Track Steward is talking about. Imagine hearing RED Flag through your ear piece and knowing everyone on the track just heard the same thing and are coming to a stop without getting to know your backside? How about on caution laps when that one individual just can't seem to get in the proper line up? The Head Flagger could come on the radio and say Number  3, go to second place. Then we don't circle the track until a red is thrown and the poor guy is finally lined back up.

www.rh2way.com has just such a unit and will give us a substantial discount if we order together. List is $99.00, but were were order in numbers the nice lady said she would do a LOT better. Christmas is coming, this is lot cheaper than the deductable you pay on insurance. And it would be cool to know what is going on.

Think about it and if there is enough intrest, maybe we can all be safer on the track.

Comments?

7
Coffee Shop / Engine Pulleys
« on: May 14, 2011, 06:05:49 pm »
Just a thought for you guys and gals, the last two engines I got in to balance, the engine pulley was WAY out, they had been welded on and the weld threw the balance off so bad the intake and exhaust would loosen up very quickly. So far I have not found a stock unmolested pulley that was off.

Just food for thought, might save you some grief.

8
Driveline / Correct Set Screw
« on: March 16, 2011, 11:19:24 pm »
Thought this might be intresting to you guys and gals, I've heard complaints before about set screws loosing up, with that being said, there are five different types of set screws and they all do something different.

Knurled Point: is used for quick and permanant location fittments. Counterclockwise knurls prevent the set screw from loosening from vibration, the knurls may mar the shaft and interfet with removal. These should only be used ONE TIME.

Flat Point: this is the best type to be used when parts must be removed or reseated from time to time, leaves little or no damage, can be used with hardened shafts.

Oval or Round Point: Best use for angular surfaces, V-grooves or when circular indents (for location) sre placed on a fitment, shaft ect. This point works best to allow for axial adjustment of a device.

Cone or V Point: Used for "Permanant" location of parts. This point allows for deep penertation and provided the highest axial and torsional holding power

Dog Point:  This is also used for permanat location of one part to another. This point is typically "Spot" drilled in a shaft or placed againist a "ground flat"

So, it looks like I need to throw all mine away as all I have is the first one, the knurled point, which the majority of us use, it's also the worst one. The "Cone or Dog Point" apears to be the best chooice for holding pulles on.

This info and the one about the key came from a Reliability Soulutions Class attended by some of the guys where I work, great stuff, trust me, I did not come up with this by myself. I never knew there were five types, but i have wondered why My pulleys sometimes fell off. As Paul Harvey used to say, "And now you know the rest of the story"

9
Driveline / Key Length
« on: March 12, 2011, 07:37:05 pm »
Over the past few years doing tech and seeing the bottom of a lot of mowers out there, I have noticed a lot of people have the wrong size keys in their drive pulleys on the engine. The proper length of the key contributs to the balance of the engine, I will admit it's small, but as George says "A lot of little things add up to one big thing" With that being said here is the proper way to determine the length your key needs to be.

1st, measure the length of "Cut" keyway on the crankshaft, go all the way to the end of the radius. Say it's 3"

2nd, measure the length of the "Cut" keyway on the pulley. Say it's 2"

Now add the two together and divide by 2. So,  3 plus 2=5 dividiveded by 2=2.5"

Now multiply by .95, this will be the length needed for your aplication 2.5 times .95=2.375"

Simple, but this contributes to the overall balance of the engine.

10
Briggs Flathead / Obsolete Oil pump
« on: March 05, 2011, 01:50:17 pm »
Briggs has now discontinued the oil pump/governor Part #691980 for the 8 hp flathead, if you like useing new ones on your builds, better start hunting inventory.

11
Coffee Shop / Machine work & balancing
« on: January 01, 2011, 06:12:21 pm »
Anyone needing machine or baLacing work performed, I'm now open for business. I can cut just about any amount off of whatever head or heads you have, machine excentrics off the single cranks, pin your balance weights and polish the crank journals. Also can balance SINGLE cylinder cranks. Custom work-send your wants.
Two email addresses:
tdaniels@smurfit.com
huffy044@yahoo.com


12
Briggs Flathead / Coil mount for Briggs 8HP
« on: August 25, 2010, 11:30:00 am »
If any of you that are running the ARC aluminun flywheel havn't broken the aluminun coil mount yet, you proablly will. It's fairly easy to use the aluminun one for a template to make a steel one out of 1/8" plate, just drill and countersink the required holes and keep the aluminun one for a spare.

While your at it, anyone who ownes one of the brackets knowes how time consuming and agravating it is to get the nuts started under the coild mount next to the Briggs post that holds the bracket on. Do this: take the 8-32 allen head bolts (2) that come with the coil kit and weld them to the UNDERSIDE of your new steel bracket, now all you do is drop the coil on and tighen the nuts (Thy are on top now) Coil istlation is now super easy, I should have done this years ago!

13
Tecumseh Engines / Oiling system for 8 hp
« on: July 01, 2009, 11:52:54 am »
For you guys running the 8 or 10 hp Indian, any trouble with the oil pump? Any modifications needed to it? If I take the balance shaft out, looks like the oil gallery to the bal. shaft needs to be plugged or oil pressure would be wasted. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

14
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Want AVS 31's & 33's
« on: January 21, 2009, 11:33:39 am »
If any of you have 31 or 33 C.I AVS engines (the ones with the oil fill in the block not the pan) I will buy or trade you for them. I have flathead stuff  for tradeing or will trade machine work. e mail me at: tdaniels@smurfit.com please e mail instead of replying (easier for me)

15
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / How to mark off flywheel in degrees
« on: December 29, 2008, 12:19:38 pm »
With all the talk about what flywheel fits the 28, 31,33 OHV's and what hub to use relating to ignition timing, perhaps this artice from Hot Rod will help. Multiply the diameter of the flywheel by Pi (3.1416) to findit's circumference. Divide the circumference value by 360, them multiply the product by the total timing mumber in degrees (the value to want to see at full advance). The result is the location of a new mark representing the degree of advance you want. Example: for a 8" flywheel....8in X 3.1416=25.1328 divided by 360= .069813 times 30 (or the amout of total timing you want) =2.0944 inches.

If you know true TDC, simply measure back (counter clockwise), scribe a mark them check it with a timing light at the RPM you want to run.

Pages: [1]
anything