Hey guys, not sure who's left here but i have 2 Vanguard flywheels with NO HUBS as i destroyed them removing the flywheels. The threads in the aluminum seem decent enough on them. $100 each plus shipping from 18011.

I also have a takeout cam which is a regrind of a stock cam +100 lift. Typically called a Bandolero/Slingshot cam. Its been in my basement so it needs a wire wheeling to clean up the surface but was only taken out during a spec class rebuild. $75+ ship

PLEASE EMAIL ME at coolredjeep@aol.com as i dont think i'll check my PM's here often.

I have a really low hours 18.5hp Model 31 on a mower that had some random smoke issue that i was told was probably a head gasket. I replaced it and put a chinese carb on since the solenoid leaked. Beforehand the motor ran fine and sounded strong and it also ran ok right after the head gasket install once i got the carb tuned ok. The issue i have now is that under a load (like any time the PTO) is on you can audibly hear it "snorkling" through the intake and its noticeably short of 3600rpm. I tried with/without air cleaner, rechecked the valves, torqed the head, even removed the muffler since it was like there was a restriction and it will run full throttle unloaded but just lacks the loaded rpm. It idles ok so i dont suspect a head/vacuum leak. It will actually idle so smooth that it will chug at like 400rpm like a hit and miss engine if i get it that low.

I have 2 billet non insert Vanny rods that have about 10 races on them. We have a mandatory engine builder and arent allowed in the engines. We request new rods every time they are out for rebuild. $100 for the pair.

Also have a stock cam +.100 lift which makes torque at around 4000rpm and peak hp at 5800 with stock heads/valvetrain. We turn them 6600rpm typically. $125

A brand new Cheetah cam in the bag with card never run. Paid $250 this summer. Will take $200.

I have paypal and will estimate or combine shipping. Its tough to get to a UPS store working 8-5 so bare with me please on shipping.

I have 2 blocks here and i am not sure what the size should be to determine if they are the large or small journal on the flywheel side. 35 blocks so it could be either. I only have the block not the crank to help ID them.

Thanks for the measurement

I just broke my 3rd hub while properly removing a flywheel the other night. All on different motors 2 of mine and 1 customers. None of them are installed with loc-tite as some recommend. I have actually started glazing antiseize on them to try to prevent issues since i run the full flywheel key anyway. I start removing them a few turns at a time on each side and if i get significant binding i reset position and try again. Eventually you need to use some pretty good tightening force to get it to pop and that's when i've cracked the hubs. They split right across like a bridge by the bolt hole.
I just bought ARC's flywheel puller and used it successfully a week or so ago although the holes aren't drilled precise enough and it rubs the threads off of the puller. This was after i had already cracked the customer's hub and luckily this helped pop it free.

I haven't broken every hub i've taken off... i know the procedure. I deal with these on a semi regular basis but of the 30 or so i've had to remove i find it concerning that ive broken 3 so far over 2-3 years.

Anybody else have issues like this?

If i put a Cheetah in a motor vs a stock cam +.100 lift could i see the difference with a dial indicator on the pushrod? I CAN NOT get into the motor. I'm asking for a tech situation. Just want to see if the lift is that much different in the dark in a dusty tech shed.

Thanks

So i was correctly removing my Vanny's flywheel yesterday and using some pblaster also. I sometimes can't get it to pop on the first shot so i stop and rotate it to a different spot. On the second spot i heard a crinkling/crack. A few minutes later i see that the area near the whole split and is rising up as the bolt tightens down. Thank the lord a bit of heat on the hub and a gentle pry got it to pop free. Could have been a huge mess getting that bugger off with only one working bolt.

How common is this? I've taken about 20 of these off/on since they made these legal for us last year.

I've only loosely heard of guys doing this. Does it add bottom end mostly? Would it work the same for a cam with stock profile and .100 more lift? Or would i have interference issues?