Heymow - Lawnmower Racing Forum
Mower Building / Setup Help => Project Builds => Racing Mower Builds => Topic started by: George Herrin on January 07, 2007, 10:55:45 am
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Well my son Jacob has started work on his new Super Stock. This is a ARMA and US/IMOW legal build. We started with a somewhat tore down chassis was missing deck, engine, and rear wheels. This build will use an 820 transaxle and a jackshaft. We will attempt to build it so the chassis is 4" off the ground. We are using a MTD, for this build. I started with pics once he was almost done stripping the chassis. This will be a slow build I am hoping he does most of the work. But will take pics and show progress as it moves along.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010001.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010001.jpg)
This first picture Jake has removed the bodywork and front axle he is now removing the steering wheel. The object is to strip it down to bare frame.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010002.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010002.jpg)
This picture he is down to removing the deck lift parts. Here is using the saws-all to cut the lift handle in half. It’s easier to remove it this way. And we do not plan on reusing it anyhow.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_Jakepreppingfortransaxlemounts.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/Jakepreppingfortransaxlemounts.jpg)
Here is Jacob prepping the side panels for the transaxle mounts we are going to weld in
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_transaxlemountweldedininside.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/transaxlemountweldedininside.jpg)
Here we have them welded in We used 1.5" angle and welded it to a 1/4" square tube. Then welded the whole thing in
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_outside.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/outside.jpg)
Here is a view from the outside
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_overallviiew.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/overallviiew.jpg)
Here is an over all view. We are mounting an 820 transaxle into this MTD. All ready built one so this really isn't new ground for us. Well it is for Jake. This is his first build.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_transaxlejustsittinginplce.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/transaxlejustsittinginplce.jpg)
Here you see the transaxle sitting in place
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_viewinsideframe.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/viewinsideframe.jpg)
Here is a look inside the frame. While the transaxle is in place we squared it up centered it left and right and using a transfer punch marked the 4 mounting boltholes. Then we drilled and tapped for a 5/16 standard thread.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_Boltedin.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/Boltedin.jpg)
Here is a look with it bolted in place Front mounts still need making but the transaxle is in.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_lookatboltedin.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/lookatboltedin.jpg)
Here’s another look at it bolted in. I use the very inside bolt holes in the case they just happen to be in line with the side panel. This is the reason we make the mounts like we did. By not going to the outer boltholes this will allow for our brake setup, which you will see, in later pictures.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_lookatfrontofit.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/lookatfrontofit.jpg)
Here is a look at it in side from the front
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_bottomoftransaxle.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/bottomoftransaxle.jpg)
Here is an overall view of the bottom
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_framestiffining.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/framestiffining.jpg)
As you can see we still stiffen the chassis with the square tubing. This is essentially a prepared chassis and will be built as such.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_notchtransaxlefortubing.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/notchtransaxlefortubing.jpg)
Here you can see we still have just a bit of modifying to do to the case we grind this material away. There is plenty of access here and doesn't hurt cutting or grind some of it away.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_notchingtransaxle.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/notchingtransaxle.jpg)
here is the other side have to notch case just a little still
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_transaxlebrakesystem.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/transaxlebrakesystem.jpg)
This picture is of his brothers brake system on his Super-stock. We will install the same set up on this one.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_transaxledisk.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/transaxledisk.jpg)
Here is another look at the disk and disk hub. The is made by none other than Steve Bertrand of Bertrand Hydraulics, also the builder of the big Indian also referred to as the Thunder Twin. 1800-236-3611
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FAMILY! This is why I love this sport!
How old is your son?
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He is 10 years old and drive's my truck and bp all over the place here. I live way out in the country. With the new ARMA chapter started here we set it up to allow 10 years to 15 to run in kids super stock. This will be the first year he and his brother get to race together in Super Stock. That's his sister in the back ground they are inseperable. She is working her nerve up to race in Kid Stock.
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Hey George what mowers do those 820 come in and does that have 1inch axles?
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Yes they have the 1 inch axle everything in it riides on either needle bearings or ball bearings. You will find them in the larger garden tractor style mowers generally will have a rear wheel larger than the standard 8 inch lawn tractor variety. This 820 will have the solid axle and 017 conversion installed in it.
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looking good so far george :D
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hey george that brake rotor on your sons build how is it mounted on the axle and what type of rotor is it? thanks fordfan
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Looks like a brake rotor off a FWD car...maybe something that fits a 4 on 4 hub...??
and then reversed back over the transaxle housing...easy mount for caliper on frame side...
Nice clean set up..
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Look's like your son is gonna have a sweet mower, I hope you good luck with this project :)
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the MTD looks great so far.
this build is really going to help me when i start to make my Case 110 race ready. the brake setup is a but help and it looks sweet. could you by chance get the parts numbers for the disk and the "hub" it mounts on?
thanks
-Phil
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woohhh, i just noticed the brake setup :doh:, Thats looks really cool. How hard was it to make?
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That's cool that you have the son building one!
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Here is another look at the disk and disk hub. This is made by none other than Steve Bertrand of Bertrand Hydraulics, also the builder of the big Indian also referred to as the Thunder Twin. 1800-236-3611
All I can tell you is it utilizes a standard kart 7" brake disk inside turned down and new bolt holes drilled and the hub that slips over the axle is a 1"bore 4 bolt hub you find on many fun karts with two piece steel wheels. The rest is scrach built as stated above. Along with his phone number.
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ohh ok, thanks george!!
-Phil
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Do you have to put a keyway in the axle to mount the hub for the brake rotor? I was wondering what the 017 conversion is,and how did you put the solid axle in?
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The 017 conversion is 6 parts, one being a solid gear not a differential and its much smaller that the original diff gear. It is keyeyed and you can either use a kart 1 "axle or have one made. What it does it allow you to run 1 to 1 pulleys and still run race speeds where others with a trans axle have to run like a 8 and 3 to go as fast. And yes the axle is keyed for the brake hub.
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Is that 017 conversion a part number that we can order or is there a group of part numbers that we need?
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Its a group of numbers 6 in all I believe been awhile since I di it. I will look in my notes and see if I can find them. Or call Bert number above he can tell you for sure.
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I believe the 820-017 kit part numbers are
776318- Output shaft
778274- Spur gear - Axle Gear 27T
778275- Spur gear - Spur Gear 19T
778276- Spur gear - Output Gear 31T
778277- Spur gear - Spur Gear 19T
786148- Spacer
Any Tecumseh / Peerless dealer should be able to get them for you. Mike Cupps @ Acme sells an axle thats 1" x 36" that works perfect with the kit.
Jack Jones
Hard Case Racing
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You are correct with the parts list except its an 017 conversion not 016.
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Thanks for the correction! :oops:
Jack
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ok another quick 017 kit question:
Are there 017 kits for other 800 series like 818?
And all together, how much would a 017 kit cost?
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lookin good ;)
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Should have some more pics up this weekend. Jacob been buying parts here and there with help from Dad. And we plan on working on it this weekend. This weekend is for the family, my work even that for others must wait this weekend. I promised Jacob we would work on it and A promise is a promise. He is excited too. he wants to try and weld a bit so I will give him some lessons and see how he does.
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Oh and the 017 conversion is only for the 820 model tansaxles. Won't fit the other 800 series.
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Me and Jacob worked on his mower today. He got the frame ready to weld the support tubing in. We also got an old set of spindles I never used dug out and put him an axle together. This first picture you see him deburring the cotter pin hioles in the axles. I had to drill those for him on the drill press. These spindles where built before I worked at EC Distributing where we started adding the 10 degrees of king pin inclination. We are using what we have at our disposal to keep the costs down.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010047.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010047.jpg)
Here you sim him taping the aluminum tubing for the tie rod ends. I do not recomend power taping unless you know what you are doing. I started it tto make sure he was straight and he finished it.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010049.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010049.jpg)
here is another view of him power taping. This is the other end of the tie rod.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010050.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010050.jpg)
Ok you are wonndering what he is doing. he is spinning the tie rod with the 1/2" drill and running scotch brite up and down it This gives it the brushed aluminum semi polish look all while taking the sccrathes and rough look off.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010051.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010051.jpg)
Here is his axle all asembled. As you can see this axle has no king pin inclination. It is old school so to speak. All my new chassis run the EC axle with 10degree inclination. All the parts are EC though.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010052.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010052.jpg)
here is a close up of the left spindle
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010053.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010053.jpg)
Here is a close up of the right spindle
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010054.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010054.jpg)
Here is a look at the jack shaft assembley. All aluminum. Another product from the thunder twin king himself Steve Bertrand.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010055.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010055.jpg)
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jacobs racer is comin together very nicely!!
i have a few questions about the front spindles:
-how are you keeping the bearings from falling down? is there another peice of tubing welded inside
the outter peice to hold them in place?
-whats that behind the wheels? aluminum spacer?
thanks
-Phil
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The build is really mowving ahead quite well!!!
Looks like your son likes orange soda! (Orange soda mustache evidence!)
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The spindles are machine from round stock that has a 3/4 center. It is machined in the cnc lathe with a shoulder inside the bearing sits on. Meaning the bearing cannot move. And yes what you see behind the wheels are aluminum spacers we make and sell at E.C. we have them in 5/8 and 3/4. And MOWMAN I think he was drinking orange or red koolaide. But yea he loves the stuff. I was kidding him about it when we looked at the pictures.
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Ok First thing me and Jacob did was open the two 820 transaxles. Rules state it must be 8 to 1 in the highest gear. This 820 is the new one its a 6 speed and 6th gear is 12 to 1. This is the inside look at an unmodifed 820
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_Stocksixspeed820.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/Stocksixspeed820.jpg)
Here you see the inside of the 5 speed with the 017 conversion kit in it. Notice the diff gear right off the bat is much smaller. I have changed the internal gears and removed 5th using peerless block out spacers and 4th is 9 to 1. So overall pulley set up will be 5 on motor to 5 on bottom of jack shaft to 5 on top to a 4.5 on transaxle. This should put it at 8 to 1 in 4th which is now the higest gear. I have also removed all the factory grease. We will be running gear lube in this one.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_sixspeed820w017.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/sixspeed820w017.jpg)
Well with the transaxles built and ready we started on the frame. Welding in all the frame support. We are using 3/4 thin wall square tubing. Here is Jacob doing some of the welding. I give him a few lessons on scrap then let him do some of the tacking.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_Jacobwelding.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/Jacobwelding.jpg)
Here is a better view of him tacking in the tubing. He don't like welding to much after he had a hot little BB run down his shirt. OUCH!! :oops:
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_Jacobweldingframesupports.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/Jacobweldingframesupports.jpg)
With all the support tubing in we welded the front axle on.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_frontaxleandviewofframesupport.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/frontaxleandviewofframesupport.jpg)
here is another view of the front axle. Again this one does not have the king pin inclination. I had these spindles sitting on the shelf for well over a year so we used what we had.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_frontaxle.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/frontaxle.jpg)
We bolted the transaxle in place have to make a front support for it so it doesn't pivot under load. And you can also see the jackshaft assy. Word to the wise. If you ever use one of these from Bertrand. put it in the frame before you weld all the supports in and the frame up. I had to cut the sides down some to get it in and it needed some persuasion even then.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_Transaxleinwithjackshaftassy.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/Transaxleinwithjackshaftassy.jpg)
Here we are looking at transaxle and jack shaft from the top.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_toptransaxleandjackshaft.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/toptransaxleandjackshaft.jpg)
Ok looking inside the frame you can see how I tiied the frame support in kinda of like a this [ it attaches to the top transaxle braket to the lower support tube that runs front to back.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_lookingatthetransaxlemount.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/lookingatthetransaxlemount.jpg)
Here is another look from the top. Jake wanted his pic in here some where!!!
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_lookingintopofchassis.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/lookingintopofchassis.jpg)
Ok here is his brake setup just slipped up on it to get a look. This too was made by Steve Bertrand 1800-236-3611. Home of the Thunder Twin Tecumseh's. I am honored to have him as a sponsor. And as you can see he helps out the boys with parts also.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_brakesetup.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/brakesetup.jpg)
Here you go looking at the transaxle and Jackshaft thru the tunnel of the frame to give you an Idea as to how much we set it up into the frame. Thats it for today. Jabcob already informed me we are getting up at 7 in the morning to get started. I ain't so sure about that but will see. He is excited at the progress we making.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_lookingintunnelatjackshaft.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/lookingintunnelatjackshaft.jpg)
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man this build is going to help tons when it comes time for me to turn my Case into a racer!!
Steve Bertrand has some very nice peices from t he lookings of it. does he happen to have the brake "hub" youve shown here in a 3/4" shaft?
great progress :thumbsup: jakes gunna have a really nice IMOW when yall are done.
-Phil
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As far as I know he has only made them for a 1 inch axle transaxle. Would not be hard to adapt it to 3/4. Cut a 3/4 hub out of an old oem rear wheel machine it so the od is a press fit inside the inch hub. weld it in place and you have a 3/4 axle hub.
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sweet, thanks George!
-Phil
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Well first thing this morning we got started on getting all the body work on with all the mounts.Here you see the cage or support system I build for all MTDs with the plastic dash. It also supports the upper bearing support for the steering column.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_1dashsupport.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/1dashsupport.jpg)
Here you can see the flat bar I add to hold the upper steering column support
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_2dashsupporttopview.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/2dashsupporttopview.jpg)
Ok here is a cheap trick you can do and works for many type chassis. For your bearing supports I take old factory rims cim them so I can cut the inner bearing hub off. I use this for my steering column bearing supports. Like I said we are using what we have at our disposal on allot of small stuff.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_3cuttingrimsforbearingsupports.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/3cuttingrimsforbearingsupports.jpg)
Here is a closer look at what I cut off to use. I even use the wheel bearings if they are decent.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_4bearingsupport.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/4bearingsupport.jpg)
Here is the lower bearing in and welded in place. It sits right into the small recess where the column originally goes thru the chassis. I use a 5/8 lock collar to keep shaft from slipping down.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_5lowerbearingsupport.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/5lowerbearingsupport.jpg)
Here is the upper support made the same way. I also put a lock collar here also. With one on top of bottom bearing and one on the bottom of top bearing the steering column stays in place.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_6topbearingsupport.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/6topbearingsupport.jpg)
Here is an overall view of the steering column.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_7overallviewofsterringcolumn.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/7overallviewofsterringcolumn.jpg)
Here is alook with everything in place and Dash on it.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_8dashonwithsteeringcoumn.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/8dashonwithsteeringcoumn.jpg)
Here is a closer look with the das on showing the support work and how it runs inside the dash.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_9closerlookwithdashon.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/9closerlookwithdashon.jpg)
here is the rear fender support and how I add to the original fennder mounts. I raised the fenders 3/4 of an inch to keep the wheel clearance.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_91rearfendersupport.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/91rearfendersupport.jpg)
Here is another look at the fender mounts and support work.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_92fendersupportmounts.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/92fendersupportmounts.jpg)
We are testing the fender fit here using some old fennnders we use for mock up work.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_93testingfenderclearance.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/93testingfenderclearance.jpg)
One more look from a different angle of the fender and how it fits. We are happy with how that looks so now we will move up front
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_94fenderclearanceing.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/94fenderclearanceing.jpg)
Here you can see the square tube I weld to the front axle to mount the front of the grill to. Nice neat and simple.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_94grillsupportsweldon.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/94grillsupportsweldon.jpg)
Here is all the body work sitting on it. We are using the body work off his stock mower. Its all painted and ready to go. All I will have to do is paint the chassis. We will paint that Black.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_95bodyworkon.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/95bodyworkon.jpg)
Here is a look from the front.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_96frontview.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/96frontview.jpg)
And another view of it Jacob wanted in the pic with the hood up. He is proud of it. All thats really left is clutch and pedal brakes and pedal and some small little things. Will be a bit before we get back to it. I have some customer work to get to and get ready for the 4 hour enduro in Florida. I promised him we would work on it this weekend so thats what we did.
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jacob has every reason to be proud, its a very nice looking mowchine!
just like in all the builds ive seen on here, theres tons of info here to help snyone with thier project. very nice job Jacob and George.
-Phil
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great job to you and your son,it is coming along great ! plus this will help me and others as well .
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Hey George...How can a fella get a Team Jesus decal like the one that's on the fender there?
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Go to George's web site and there is info on it there .
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I am in the process of getting decals made. My orignal provider has quite and doesn't answer or respond. So I am hoping to get some made from pictures. I like the way they were done.
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NICE!! I want it!!
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Great build father and son project. question for you that 820 transaxle could that be found in a ranch king by chance. I know where I can find one of those cheap. good job on the build.
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Check the axle they will be 1" o.d.. The 820 tranxles are generally found on a garden tractor not a lawn tractor. Most garden tracors have 12 inch wheels or bigger. Most lawn tractors have 8" wheels on the rear. I am thinking ranch king was made by murray but I can't be sure on that. Either murray or MTD. If MTD it won't have the 820 in it.
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Now that I think about it. It had a 18 hp vertical twin on it and 12'' rear wheels and I think it is a garden tractor. And 5 bolt hubs in the rear.
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Check it out and see. It could have an 820 in it.
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That project is freaking Awesome.
Your kid is gonna have a blast.
=D
I was wondering how you did the Brakes?
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And what's doing for the motor?
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Ain't decided. A 12hp or 14.5. Arma rules allow an OHV in Super Stock. I have both.
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What is ARMA Super Stock class?
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SUPER STOCK:
• Must be a full-size lawnmower with a 39†unaltered wheelbase, front engine origin, stamped steel frame, and have a steering column located behind the motor.
• Mowers will use a governed engine with a 3650 RPM maximum (no load).
• Motors may be any single-cylinder valve-in-block (flathead) or overhead value (ohv) engines 15 horsepower and under with a 465 cc maximum in the original factory location.
• The engine must be as delivered from the factory, internally and externally, with the following exceptions; air cleaner, air filter or velocity stack, open exhaust and the removal of the debris screen covering the flywheel to allow quick and easy access to the flywheel nut while checking the 8 to 1 gear ratio.
• Transmission or transaxle must be shiftable and of lawnmower origin.
• The gear ratio in the highest gear must be 8 to 1. For example, while in the highest gear, the rear wheels can turn no more than one revolution every time the engine rotates eight times.
• Body must be stock, without external alterations.
• Discreet frame strengthening is allowed. The front axle may be reinforced, substituted or fabricated. Racer-fabricated axles will be reviewed by the Tech Inspector to determine their apparent safety for racing. Aluminum is not permitted as the material for the axle.
• Front spindles are to be a minimum of 5/8†in diameter.
• Metal rims are to be used both front and rear. Rim size will be 6†diameter in the front and 8†diameter in the rear. Rear rims may be reinforced on the inside.
• Front tires will be 13†diameter. Rear tires will be 16†diameter.
• Mowers must have steel factory decks.
-Phil
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George, you and your Son are doing a great job on that machine. The setup of the machine is very like the machine I'm running. I am also running a 820-017 with a jack shaft setup with a square tube frame welded in on a MTD chassis.
What gear will it be racing in?
Will you be taking out the reverse chain?
Andrew
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Per our rules we will race in the highest gear in this case 4th I removed 5th and 6th. Its a 8 to ratio at a governed engine speed of 3650.
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I ran in 3rd gear last year with my 5 speed 820-017 which most likely would be the same as your sons 4th gear. I was think of running 13 inch rear tires this year and going up to perhaps 5th gear. Just not sure if 5th will be strong enough.
Now did you decide to go with 4 gear because you believe it will be the strongest with both meshed gears being of a fair size instead of running in 6 with one big gear and one small gear.
Also are you removing the chain in the transaxle or leaving it in? I have been thinking about removing mine as I'm not sure the chain will hold up.
Andrew
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Since our rules state 8 to 1 in the highest availble gear. 4th was the closest to that. SO I removed everything above 4th. and Adjusted the pulley from there to get 8 to 1. I didn't remove the chain because its governed class with a gear ratio restriction. Now if it was ungoverned and no ratio yup chain would come out.
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any new updates?
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I have been tremndously busy and havn't been able to help Jacob with it. We have to finish it this weekend so updates will come after.
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HEY!
I must say this build looks very kewl. I'm just gettin started into this mower racing thing and I just wanna make sure about somethin...do you stay in the same gear during the whole race or how does that work? Since we were on the rules and gear ratio subject... :confused: Thnx
Dallas
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yes we don't shift while racing. This is a set ratio and that is in the highest gear thats what they race in in the Super Stock class.
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George what type of flux core wire do you use?
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Alrity, that's what I thought, thanx
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good question, what ever brand TSC sells 11lb rolls.
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LMAO! I just noticed that my gender was set to female :oops: so when I would go to change it, the my computer would lock up. But I got it 'er fixed :lol:
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good question, what ever brand TSC sells 11lb rolls.
Where do you get it?
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im guessing its TSC :doh:
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TSC............. Tractor Supply Company
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This is the intital setup of the belt and clutch system on the bottom from engine to jackshaft. Notice how I use a long cut belt and screw it together to get a good measurement on belt size keeps me from making several trips to the store.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P2020052.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P2020052.jpg)
Remember early in the build I has said we were doing this as acheap build using what we had. I built the clutch from spare pulleys and the mount bracket is made from 1x1/4 flat bar. Easy to do and got the job done.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P2020053.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P2020053.jpg)
with everything in place we mounted the clutch pedal and made the linkage rod. I used the same material we make the tie rods on the EC axles.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P2020055.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P2020055.jpg)
The drive line on bottom from motor to jackshaft is complete belt guides in place. The guides are 3/8 bolts with a flange nut welded to the frame on motor pulley. The jack shaft I drilled and taped the jackshaft plate and screwed them in.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010057.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010057.jpg)
Here is a close up view of the front transaxle support braket. It bolts to the side of case and is welded on the other end to the frame. This keeps the transaxle from pivoting on acceleration.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010058.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010058.jpg)
Now the belt system on top of the jackshaft to the transaxle was very simple. It has no clutch so it doesn't need guides. for a tensioner I used a flat idler of the rear belt system of the original vary drive on the MTD. I welded a flat bar to the top of the frame and slotted it so the idler can slide to adjust tension. Also notice the tight confinement of the shifter.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010059.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010059.jpg)
A real close look at the shifter. I used the origianl arm that bolts to the shifter cut it off to just a nub then using the original MTD shifter bent and shaped it and welded it to the end of the shift arm plate
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010060.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010060.jpg)
This is an overall view of the completed shifter. An aluminum plate/cover will slip right under the shifter and bolt down to cover this open area.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010061.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010061.jpg)
Now the master cylinder is mounted to the side of the frame for easy access. using a steering column we heated and shaped the rod into the pedal you see in this photo. Welded a 1inch square tab to the rear for linkage mount. Jacob cut the splined end off and drilled it to a 3/8 hole and I welded it to the bottom and bolted it to the frame for a nice pedal setup. Easier than what I been doing on the other chassis builds. But as usual I am always trying something new.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010062.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010062.jpg)
As you can see here the engine is a a 14.5 OHV. ARMA rules allow the use of the ohv in the super Stock Class. Also you can see the start of the exhaust inch pipe I.D. We wired the system up so it uses the original key swiitch and starter button to start it. It also suses the tehtered kill switch or key to stop it.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010065.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010065.jpg)
Here is the bottom or lower part of exhaust. We used the stepped of the exhaust off his kart motor to finish the exhaust. He wanted the mower worse than the kart.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010064.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010064.jpg)
One last thing to do before Jake can test it out and that is the seat side brace. Here you see how I do that. Useuing some old seat lace I put thaat on top of the aluminum to protect from any edges and clamp it to the side of seat drill 1/4 inch holes and Jacob bolted it on. Done time for testing.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010066.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010066.jpg)
Jacob suited up with all the safety gear backing it out to the drive way before starting it.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010072.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010072.jpg)
His first pass at speed down our yard/back straight.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010067.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010067.jpg)
an upclose look at him coming off a turn onto what we call our front straight. We have a big yard.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010080.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010080.jpg)
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Looks like time to get a paint' in ;) Nice job. Looks like a father/son double threat. Kevin
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Very nice mower! (You better watch him George won't be long till he will be out there passing you. :) )Good luck Jacob. Be safe and have fun.
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ok, i have a quick question, how much is that jackshaft setup that your using? because i was planning on making one myself, but with my luck, it'll break once i put it in!
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ok, i have a quick question, how much is that jackshaft setup that your using? because i was planning on making one myself, but with my luck, it'll break once i put it in!
Give Steve Bertrand a call @ 800-236-3611.
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well, i was only planning on calling him if i have the money and was going to order it..but as of now, i have no money and i'm just trying to sum up how much money i will need for my IMOW build, and i wouldnt want to call him up just to ask how much it is when i can just have george tell me here....
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A good jackshaft set-up isn't that expensive , I think if you call E.C. they sell all teh stuff .
It's couple of bearings and a piece of 3/4 shaft , weld in a second plate above the frame to support the top bearing and there you are . that's the easy explanation but you get the idea from that , I hope . LOL
Wish I still had pics from my SP .
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Sorry I have been gone since Friday morning. Had our test and tune and Jacob had a ball on his new mower. Drove like a pro and had no problems at all. Anyways the price of the jackshaft assy I couldn't tell you. They were provided by Bertrand Hydraulics as sponsorship. He sponsors all our mowers and we carry the Bertrand Hydraulic decals proudly. I have seen guys use Murray Deck Spindle assy's I di on a couple customer builds, also seen some Kart front wheel hubs used. Many things to use.
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well, thanks for the help guys, i'm going to see if the deck spindles off of my MTD's deck would work..
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Well my son Jacob has started work on his new Super Stock. This is a ARMA and US/IMOW legal build. We started with a somewhat tore down chassis was missing deck, engine, and rear wheels. This build will use an 820 transaxle and a jackshaft. We will attempt to build it so the chassis is 4" off the ground. We are using a MTD, for this build. I started with pics once he was almost done stripping the chassis. This will be a slow build I am hoping he does most of the work. But will take pics and show progress as it moves along.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010001.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010001.jpg)
This first picture Jake has removed the bodywork and front axle he is now removing the steering wheel. The object is to strip it down to bare frame.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010002.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010002.jpg)
This picture he is down to removing the deck lift parts. Here is using the saws-all to cut the lift handle in half. It’s easier to remove it this way. And we do not plan on reusing it anyhow.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_Jakepreppingfortransaxlemounts.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/Jakepreppingfortransaxlemounts.jpg)
Here is Jacob prepping the side panels for the transaxle mounts we are going to weld in
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_transaxlemountweldedininside.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/transaxlemountweldedininside.jpg)
Here we have them welded in We used 1.5" angle and welded it to a 1/4" square tube. Then welded the whole thing in
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_outside.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/outside.jpg)
Here is a view from the outside
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_overallviiew.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/overallviiew.jpg)
Here is an over all view. We are mounting an 820 transaxle into this MTD. All ready built one so this really isn't new ground for us. Well it is for Jake. This is his first build.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_transaxlejustsittinginplce.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/transaxlejustsittinginplce.jpg)
Here you see the transaxle sitting in place
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_viewinsideframe.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/viewinsideframe.jpg)
Here is a look inside the frame. While the transaxle is in place we squared it up centered it left and right and using a transfer punch marked the 4 mounting boltholes. Then we drilled and tapped for a 5/16 standard thread.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_Boltedin.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/Boltedin.jpg)
Here is a look with it bolted in place Front mounts still need making but the transaxle is in.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_lookatboltedin.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/lookatboltedin.jpg)
Here’s another look at it bolted in. I use the very inside bolt holes in the case they just happen to be in line with the side panel. This is the reason we make the mounts like we did. By not going to the outer boltholes this will allow for our brake setup, which you will see, in later pictures.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_lookatfrontofit.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/lookatfrontofit.jpg)
Here is a look at it in side from the front
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_bottomoftransaxle.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/bottomoftransaxle.jpg)
Here is an overall view of the bottom
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_framestiffining.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/framestiffining.jpg)
As you can see we still stiffen the chassis with the square tubing. This is essentially a prepared chassis and will be built as such.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_notchtransaxlefortubing.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/notchtransaxlefortubing.jpg)
Here you can see we still have just a bit of modifying to do to the case we grind this material away. There is plenty of access here and doesn't hurt cutting or grind some of it away.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_notchingtransaxle.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/notchingtransaxle.jpg)
here is the other side have to notch case just a little still
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_transaxlebrakesystem.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/transaxlebrakesystem.jpg)
This picture is of his brothers brake system on his Super-stock. We will install the same set up on this one.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_transaxledisk.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/transaxledisk.jpg)
Here is another look at the disk and disk hub. The is made by none other than Steve Bertrand of Bertrand Hydraulics, also the builder of the big Indian also referred to as the Thunder Twin. 1800-236-3611
george , I was wondering when you cut out for the rear axle about far down are cutting into the chassis to mount trans ? I'm currently building another mowchine for our enduro races here and I'm using a 849 peerless trans .I built the last two using 700's and decided to try this one with a transaxle . So far I like building for the 700 tranny's .
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FROM top of frame to top of cut is 4 inches.
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FROM top of frame to top of cut is 4 inches.
thanx george !
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Awesome looking mower George and Jacob!!!! Looks mean as crap with him on it good luck this season!!!!! :3gears: :chris: :burnout:
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Jacobs first points race debut went off without a hitch. Led every lap and won the feature. His brother was hot on his heals two wheeling it and driving his tail off trying his best to get around his brother. What a proud yet NERVOUS dad I was. Then it all went Wong in a hurry for Brandon. His Mechanic did a poor job at tightening his tie rod ends. The tie rod came loose ending the 1 2 finish. Best part is he didn't wreck just went off the track out of control. But vowed he would get him next race. Just thought I would let everyone know of Jacobs first time out.
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Then it all went Wong in a hurry for Brandon. His Mechanic did a poor job at tightening his tie rod ends.
:woo:
Oh..Ohh... They don't happen to wrenching for each other do they...? :doh:
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No Brandon never turns a wrench unless it is on one of his games. LOL Blame that one on his DAD, the bum. It will be right next time. The said if it ain't.... well you can guess the rest.
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Blame that one on his DAD, the bum.
:bash: It always comes back to dad... That's like when Sami got DQ'd for being 20 over on the RPM at a race.... Seems "Dad".. :roll: forgot to check it before the race... :noplease:
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Yup it does.
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That's like when Sami got DQ'd for being 20 over on the RPM at a race....
How do they check for that? And how can I check that before the races and things?
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With a tachometer.
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Good job George, excellent article. Very Mowtivating... :D
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Well thanks Bob, been a long while since I spoke with ya. Good to see ya browsing around the mower forums. The Avatar does you no justice though. LOL
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Oh great.....Bob is going to start all of us posting MUG-SHOT AVATARS!
Welcome aboard Bob!
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Well if its the true Stormer that ain't him ya looking at. Thats Bobby Cleveland in the avatar
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And we may never know.
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may not but either way a compliment from either is a good thing. I credit both guys for much of my initial success in the sport. Stormer for help with my first real race mower build and gear setup and Cleveland for giving me something to shoot for. he was who I aimed to beat when I went to a race. Taught me alot following him. Shame Stormer retired when I started would have loved to race against him also.. Oh well the memories are great. Not allowed to race with them no more but hey making new friends and memories now!!!
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how do you get your transaxel to line up with the engine when you set it in that deep? i really dont know and i want to do that. mine sits at stock height and that isnt good when cornering fast, obviously
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Look at the pictures it shows you everything you need to know.
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i see how you did it in the pictures but i dont have the right resources to do that. what if i flipped the transaxel over so the pulley was on the bottom and lined it up directly with the engine? granted i modified the shifter to compensate?
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That would give you five reverse speeds and only one forward,all you need is a jackshaft and if you don't feel like buying one there pretty easy to make.
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Why the flipping over has been done in the past with great success. And no they didn't have 5 reverse gears. But I still would not want mine upside down.
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That would give you five reverse speeds and only one forward,all you need is a jackshaft and if you don't feel like buying one there pretty easy to make.
only if it was backwards. im gonna flip it and put it up into the body more today. i already figured out the shifter problem.
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Just think of all the lube you put in that when its upside down. Its not going to be bathing those gears in oil like it would sitting correctly.
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eh, i scrapped that idea. i got a huffy now :D
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This is the intital setup of the belt and clutch system on the bottom from engine to jackshaft. Notice how I use a long cut belt and screw it together to get a good measurement on belt size keeps me from making several trips to the store.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P2020052.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P2020052.jpg)
Remember early in the build I has said we were doing this as acheap build using what we had. I built the clutch from spare pulleys and the mount bracket is made from 1x1/4 flat bar. Easy to do and got the job done.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P2020053.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P2020053.jpg)
with everything in place we mounted the clutch pedal and made the linkage rod. I used the same material we make the tie rods on the EC axles.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P2020055.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P2020055.jpg)
The drive line on bottom from motor to jackshaft is complete belt guides in place. The guides are 3/8 bolts with a flange nut welded to the frame on motor pulley. The jack shaft I drilled and taped the jackshaft plate and screwed them in.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010057.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010057.jpg)
Here is a close up view of the front transaxle support braket. It bolts to the side of case and is welded on the other end to the frame. This keeps the transaxle from pivoting on acceleration.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010058.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010058.jpg)
Now the belt system on top of the jackshaft to the transaxle was very simple. It has no clutch so it doesn't need guides. for a tensioner I used a flat idler of the rear belt system of the original vary drive on the MTD. I welded a flat bar to the top of the frame and slotted it so the idler can slide to adjust tension. Also notice the tight confinement of the shifter.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010059.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010059.jpg)
A real close look at the shifter. I used the origianl arm that bolts to the shifter cut it off to just a nub then using the original MTD shifter bent and shaped it and welded it to the end of the shift arm plate
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010060.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010060.jpg)
This is an overall view of the completed shifter. An aluminum plate/cover will slip right under the shifter and bolt down to cover this open area.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010061.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010061.jpg)
Now the master cylinder is mounted to the side of the frame for easy access. using a steering column we heated and shaped the rod into the pedal you see in this photo. Welded a 1inch square tab to the rear for linkage mount. Jacob cut the splined end off and drilled it to a 3/8 hole and I welded it to the bottom and bolted it to the frame for a nice pedal setup. Easier than what I been doing on the other chassis builds. But as usual I am always trying something new.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010062.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010062.jpg)
As you can see here the engine is a a 14.5 OHV. ARMA rules allow the use of the ohv in the super Stock Class. Also you can see the start of the exhaust inch pipe I.D. We wired the system up so it uses the original key swiitch and starter button to start it. It also suses the tehtered kill switch or key to stop it.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010065.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010065.jpg)
Here is the bottom or lower part of exhaust. We used the stepped of the exhaust off his kart motor to finish the exhaust. He wanted the mower worse than the kart.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010064.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010064.jpg)
One last thing to do before Jake can test it out and that is the seat side brace. Here you see how I do that. Useuing some old seat lace I put thaat on top of the aluminuLook at the pictures it shows you everything you need to know.
I didn't understand what a jackshaft was till now thanks.And by the way that is geneous my build will be way better now. thanks again
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That's a Great build.Father/son,setup,Pics.the hole shabang.
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Racers I post this stuff for all to see to share my knowledge free of charge to help you the racers. That being the case you may use info and share info from these posts freely. BUT I will not permit anyone copying this info then turning around and selling it for profit. I don't even mind you using it in build clinics. BUT give the information freely as I have done here. I hope everyone understands my position on this matter. If you know anyone selling this info please let me know.
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I'll keep my eye open on ebay for ya George. People that do that kind of thing are simply a waste of air!
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Thanks Nic. I spoke with a guy this evening says he paid someone for a build manual and it was my build. I don't mind someone using or sharing it But I will not tolerate someone selling it not when I post it all for free.
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That sucks, the reason I said Ebay is because I have seen a few "how to build a racing mower" manuals on there. my eyes will be like this :omg: later nic
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Clear cut case of copyright infringement, find out who he is and have an attorney send him a nice little letter requesting all proceeds derived from sale thereof or he's going to jail.
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That is already in the works AND will also be in the works for anyone in the future if I find out of anyone else.......
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Only problem is, the lawyer will cost more than what you get out of it. Aside from the satisfaction of shutting down the sale of "your" material.
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Nope not this one its a feebie... the best kind.
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The nurve of some people,I have found a person on ebay one time ,she would get family tree info and make cds and sell the info on ebay.I know what your talking about George.To take what others did and the time it took them to do it to help people, Then turn it around for there profits.That sucks!The know how takes years,It took them a sec to steal it.
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How much did the jackshaft assembly cost?
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Didin't cost me a dime.... Thats what sponsors are for.
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A lot of guys are using Murray deck spindles for their jackshaft setup. I used the bearings and holders out of my deck, and then machined a piece of cold roll to press into the bearings and then got a piece of flat steel and drilled a hole and mounted it in there. I will try to get some pics of what i have so far so i can get some feedback.
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i am kinda confused on your shifter how does it work my transaxle is just like that one i can't figure out how it works. I understand the welding it but the shifting
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I don't weld it to the transaxle I simply weld it to piece that fits it to the rod i bend t the shape and angle I want.
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Well we worked all evening doing some upgrades mostly cosmetic. Jakes new look for this season. We mounted a 2009 troybilt hood and nose. Its slightly modified, and Gotta get some doifferent screws to hold the grill in. holes were stripped so I drilled straight thru it. Get some button heads for it will look better. 4 zues fastners and the entire hood lifts off. NOW to get hime to Clean it up. Won't be bump drafting with this new nose. Too expensive to replace, Anyhow below are the pics of the new nose.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_DVC00027.jpg) (http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/?action=view¤t=DVC00027.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_DVC00028.jpg) (http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/?action=view¤t=DVC00028.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_DVC00029.jpg) (http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/?action=view¤t=DVC00029.jpg)
He likes it cause it looks like the transformer Optimus prime. Anyhow enjoy.
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I'll trade ya my 09 Troy Bilt hood for the Cub Hood ............... so you can have a spare if needed 8)
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That sure turned out NICE !! ... Can"t wait to see the Cub hood on your new ride.
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I'll trade ya my 09 Troy Bilt hood for the Cub Hood ............... so you can have a spare if needed 8)
I will sweeten the pot I'll give ya 2 cubs for your one.
That sure turned out NICE !! ... Can"t wait to see the Cub hood on your new ride.
I decided to go with the other red one with the MTD symbol on the lense. Wheelhorse I think. Anyhow if ya come across another I would love one more. We ARE using a cub on the shop super modified though.
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:thumbsup: ...... Work's for me ......... then we'll both have a spare :) Next time ya make a trip toward Monteagle or so call me and i'll meet up with ya
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Hey, George. I sent you a PM.
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Roy it was a MASSEY FURGESON.!!!
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George, I really like the way that hood looks. Lokks like a completely different ride. way to go.
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George, when you mounted your front axle on your sons mtd, did you cut that factory angle peice on the front of the frame off so it was straight or did you use that angle for alittle bit of KPI? Curious on how much KPI that stock bracket angle would give you. Thanks
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That would not be KPI that would be castor and yes I Use the original frame angle. Its all ya need.
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ok, thanks for clearing that up. Yea meant caster but was thinking KPI. Any idea how many degrees of caster that stock angle is?
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app. 10
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having trouble with cluch can't tighten it down . am i missing some thing berrings ?? wierd washers??? when i thighten it .it makes it snug to the fram pull in the cluch and it losens the cluch im lost
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I have no clue what ya using or doing. USe a self locking nut and a jam nut.
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what is a jam nut so leave it a touch hair losse then use a lock nut and a ?? jam nut
:bash:
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A jam nut is basically a nut tightened against another threaded device. 2 nuts tightened against each other, or a nut tightened against a threaded plate.
Example:For guide pulleys I put a long bolt through the pulley with a nut on th bolt, bolt goes through a threaded plate on chassis, then the nut is tightened against the plate. since the threads on the nut and plate aren't timed esactly the same, "Jamming" the nut against the plate puts pressure on the fasteners locking up the theads.
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oh ok yea married together makes cence
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Just out of curiousity, how wide of a notch did you cut in the frame for the transaxle?
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just wide enough for the transaxle to slid up in it.
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Lol ok just making sure. I'm building another one for my soon to be wife. It's an MTD Tradesman so I'll be giving you a call for another front axle soon. Thanks.
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:coolpics: That is a very sweet looking ride!
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does that brake rotor fit over the transaxle. if it does where can i get one of those.
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How far did you cut into the frame to lower the transaxel? im build a mower and im going to use a similar method to lower the back of the mower.
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Its in this thread somewhere.
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how fast is this mower toped out (what mph would be possible with different gearing)
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Who knows... its a super stock and they run app 22 or 23 mph.
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Very nice work George. Where do you buy the jack shaft assembly?
Here is a look at the jack shaft assembley. All aluminum. Another product from the thunder twin king himself Steve Bertrand.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010055.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010055.jpg)
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EC Dsitributing has Jack shafts will get some pics
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I was wondering if Bertrand Hyd is still making these custom brake rotors and hubs and what the prices are? I am in the process of building a racer and am having a problem mocking up my brake setup. I have a MTD chassis and an 820 transaxle running 8x8 wheels, so space is limited. Thanks in advance
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No but EC has them call ask for tony for pricing
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What size wheels/tires did you use and do you know of a factory rear wheel in a 6" or 8" diameter to fit the 1" shaft on the 820 or do you have to use hubs and aftermarket wheels? Thanks
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best to use hubs and wheels. safer and more durable
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10-4 Thanks
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best to use hubs and wheels. safer and more durable
do you have any recommendations for hubs? I to am adding a 820-017 to the rear of my wheel horse but I dont have any hubs yet... any suggestions P/N's?
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http://www.eccarburetors.com/estore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_63&products_id=921
http://www.eccarburetors.com/estore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19_77&products_id=1862
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George; I see that they have the hubs for a 1" axle, Do they make one for a 3/4" axle? All of our transaxles are 3/4". Thanks; Jimmy
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EC part number 4074
http://www.eccarburetors.com/estore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_63&products_id=920
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George; I see that they have the hubs for a 1" axle, Do they make one for a 3/4" axle? All of our transaxles are 3/4". Thanks; Jimmy
http://www.eccarburetors.com/estore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_63&products_id=920
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I'm sorry, But I asked for the wrong item. I was asking about the brake hub. I did see one for 1"(#100) and 1-1/4"(#125L) but not for 3/4". Is it available? Thanks again; Jimmy
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We have a brake hat for a transaxle it is 1" but we also sell a spacer for it that will allow it to fit on a 3/4 axle. Call 615-446-6807 ask for Tony he can fix ya up on it,
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Thanks George
Jimmy
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are those 16-7.50 tires by a 8" rim?
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yes
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what size tubes did u use George?
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not using tubes
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wow how did you get them to seal?
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http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=5184.15#top
http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=16144.0
http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=2929.0
http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=12283.0
http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=5900.0
http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=9814.0
http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=6839.0
http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=5348.0
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I just put them on!!!Nothing special reckon I was lucky. Biggest thing is keep beads clean and use bead lube so you do not rip or tear the bead.
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george you have a 3" on the rear i suspect how do you get your to grab mine only wants to move in first gear and thats it.
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Its not a 3" on the rear its a 6"
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so what are you running for your font on the engine bottom of jack shaft and top of jack shaft and then a 6" on the rear.
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Remember he's running an 820 transaxle, with a different final ratio than yours..
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It also uses the 017 speed up kit so I do not have to over drive it much to get the right ratio.
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Well first thing this morning we got started on getting all the body work on with all the mounts.Here you see the cage or support system I build for all MTDs with the plastic dash. It also supports the upper bearing support for the steering column.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_1dashsupport.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/1dashsupport.jpg)
Here you can see the flat bar I add to hold the upper steering column support
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_2dashsupporttopview.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/2dashsupporttopview.jpg)
Ok here is a cheap trick you can do and works for many type chassis. For your bearing supports I take old factory rims cim them so I can cut the inner bearing hub off. I use this for my steering column bearing supports. Like I said we are using what we have at our disposal on allot of small stuff.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_3cuttingrimsforbearingsupports.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/3cuttingrimsforbearingsupports.jpg)
Here is a closer look at what I cut off to use. I even use the wheel bearings if they are decent.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_4bearingsupport.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/4bearingsupport.jpg)
Here is the lower bearing in and welded in place. It sits right into the small recess where the column originally goes thru the chassis. I use a 5/8 lock collar to keep shaft from slipping down.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_5lowerbearingsupport.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/5lowerbearingsupport.jpg)
Here is the upper support made the same way. I also put a lock collar here also. With one on top of bottom bearing and one on the bottom of top bearing the steering column stays in place.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_6topbearingsupport.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/6topbearingsupport.jpg)
Here is an overall view of the steering column.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_7overallviewofsterringcolumn.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/7overallviewofsterringcolumn.jpg)
Here is alook with everything in place and Dash on it.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_8dashonwithsteeringcoumn.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/8dashonwithsteeringcoumn.jpg)
Here is a closer look with the das on showing the support work and how it runs inside the dash.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_9closerlookwithdashon.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/9closerlookwithdashon.jpg)
here is the rear fender support and how I add to the original fennder mounts. I raised the fenders 3/4 of an inch to keep the wheel clearance.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_91rearfendersupport.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/91rearfendersupport.jpg)
Here is another look at the fender mounts and support work.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_92fendersupportmounts.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/92fendersupportmounts.jpg)
We are testing the fender fit here using some old fennnders we use for mock up work.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_93testingfenderclearance.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/93testingfenderclearance.jpg)
One more look from a different angle of the fender and how it fits. We are happy with how that looks so now we will move up front
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_94fenderclearanceing.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/94fenderclearanceing.jpg)
Here you can see the square tube I weld to the front axle to mount the front of the grill to. Nice neat and simple.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_94grillsupportsweldon.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/94grillsupportsweldon.jpg)
Here is all the body work sitting on it. We are using the body work off his stock mower. Its all painted and ready to go. All I will have to do is paint the chassis. We will paint that Black.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_95bodyworkon.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/95bodyworkon.jpg)
Here is a look from the front.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_96frontview.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/96frontview.jpg)
And another view of it Jacob wanted in the pic with the hood up. He is proud of it. All thats really left is clutch and pedal brakes and pedal and some small little things. Will be a bit before we get back to it. I have some customer work to get to and get ready for the 4 hour enduro in Florida. I promised him we would work on it this weekend so thats what we did.
mr. george the bearing yall used was it a 3/4 or 5/8s? i tried to find a stock 5/8 wheel with a bearing and only found 3/4. thanks
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You can both sizes pretty easy at most big hardware stores. Or any small engine repair shop should be able to get them also
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It was a 5/8 bearing 1-3/8 od standard front wheell bearing
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The wheels are the same, you just replace the bearings.
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Alright thanks, i was thinkin bout doing that or machining a hub on the lathe, and i love the clutch idea george i start fabin one today
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Me and Jacob worked on his mower today. He got the frame ready to weld the support tubing in. We also got an old set of spindles I never used dug out and put him an axle together. This first picture you see him deburring the cotter pin hioles in the axles. I had to drill those for him on the drill press. These spindles where built before I worked at EC Distributing where we started adding the 10 degrees of king pin inclination. We are using what we have at our disposal to keep the costs down.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010047.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010047.jpg)
Here you sim him taping the aluminum tubing for the tie rod ends. I do not recomend power taping unless you know what you are doing. I started it tto make sure he was straight and he finished it.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010049.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010049.jpg)
here is another view of him power taping. This is the other end of the tie rod.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010050.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010050.jpg)
Ok you are wonndering what he is doing. he is spinning the tie rod with the 1/2" drill and running scotch brite up and down it This gives it the brushed aluminum semi polish look all while taking the sccrathes and rough look off.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010051.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010051.jpg)
Here is his axle all asembled. As you can see this axle has no king pin inclination. It is old school so to speak. All my new chassis run the EC axle with 10degree inclination. All the parts are EC though.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010052.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010052.jpg)
here is a close up of the left spindle
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010053.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010053.jpg)
Here is a close up of the right spindle
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010054.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010054.jpg)
Here is a look at the jack shaft assembley. All aluminum. Another product from the thunder twin king himself Steve Bertrand.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010055.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010055.jpg)
What size Aluminum Rod stock is that and it is solid correct?
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What size Aluminum Rod stock is that and it is solid correct?
http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=3258.0
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[quote
The drive line on bottom from motor to jackshaft is complete belt guides in place. The guides are 3/8 bolts with a flange nut welded to the frame on motor pulley. The jack shaft I drilled and taped the jackshaft plate and screwed them in.
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/th_P1010057.jpg) (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p102/georgeherrin2/P1010057.jpg)
[/quote]
what size size is the clutch pedal 5/8 or 1/2
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what size size is the clutch pedal 5/8 or 1/2
most likely its a 5/8 with how he puts the lock collar on it
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most likely its a 5/8 with how he puts the lock collar on it
5/8 just seems to big for a craftsman looks like the step would be to small to drill 5/8
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Its a stock pedal and they are 5/8
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Its a stock pedal and they are 5/8
Okay thanks going to agrisupply tomorrow so I will buy some lock collars and some rod to make them
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what size pulleys are you running on the Engine, trans and jackshaft?
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STARTED WITH ALL 6'S AND A 5 ON TRANS. BUT THEY ALL WERE EITHER OPENED OR CLOSED A TAD TO FINE TUNE IT TO BE DEAD ON 8 TO 1. CHANGING BELTS NEVER EFFECTED THE RATIO, COURSE WE RAN 5 YEARS ON THE SAME BELT BUT THE LAST YEAR WE OWNED IT HAD TO REPLACE THEM. IN ALL THOSE YEARS IT WAS GIGGED TWICE FOR BEING OVER WE TAKE IT BACK TO THE PITS HAVE A SODA AND GO BACK AND IT WAS GOOD.
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good question, what ever brand TSC sells 11lb rolls.
I believe its hobart. I use the same. I know it is cheaper at lowes for lincoln electric fluxcore.
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Thanks George.