Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - tory

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 16
1
Briggs Flathead / Re: Will this head work??
« on: August 01, 2007, 07:57:49 pm »
That is a good question that I can not find an answer to.

The 11hp vertical head will fit the 12hp vertical motor,but I do not know about using the head off a horizontal motor.

2
Briggs Flathead / Re: 19.5 hp opposed twin.
« on: July 16, 2007, 09:58:42 pm »
Does the USLMRA allow dual carbs if the motor didnt come with them?

We have a couple guys running dual LMTs on the opposed twins and running good,But are rules are more relaxed in that area.

3
Briggs Flathead / Re: tips for beginer
« on: June 07, 2007, 08:37:34 pm »
tip #1
          NO DOWN SHIFTING

4
Briggs Flathead / Re: please help
« on: May 17, 2007, 09:50:07 pm »
Sounds like an avs piston,would go real good with the ARC billit rod.

5
Briggs Flathead / Re: Pros and cons on removing the governer
« on: May 17, 2007, 09:45:23 pm »
WARNING

If you do remove the govenor,you must pull the pan and remove the weights off the end of the wheel,or you risk having them blow off at the higher RPMs.

6
Briggs Flathead / Re: Increased compression
« on: May 11, 2007, 10:33:28 pm »
Im not sure why youre having a problem,my stock starter starts mine just fine,with a g-team cam and same head.Is youre starter any good?

7
Briggs Flathead / Re: oil capacities
« on: May 04, 2007, 09:50:42 pm »
Yep,
I would drain it,add the 48,make new mark on dipstick,
(after i made shur it was instaled correctly)

8
Racing Mower Builds / Re: George's NEW BUILD for 07
« on: April 27, 2007, 08:40:11 pm »
HEY GOERGE,Isnt it time we start seeing something red on you avatar?
no sense in promoting an expired sponsorship right. ;)

9
Briggs Flathead / Re: briggs 12.5 , best upgrade?
« on: April 24, 2007, 11:06:59 pm »
There is work that can be done with minimal cost,

You can port the block but this is tricky to get right,same thing with valve work.But practice,and be conservetive,just clean it up a bit.

The brass weights are good,but $89.95 there is a cheaper option,ARC sells a billet link for the counter weights for 29.95 Im sorry nobody will tell you this.
The 25ci head will help.

The two weekest points on these engines are that counterweight link,and the week rod when the piston swells.

I would suggest this low cost billet link if on a tight budget(check ARCs site) and to loosen that motor up a bit.

When the temp rises from the excess friction the metels swell and the piston seizes,breaking the rod.

I know it sounds crazy,and fully expect negetive feed back,so this is my last post on this topic,But we spent alot of time racing a week,disassembling/inspecting,hone another .001,reassemble and race a week....untill we got away from the scarring.

You do not need a new rod,quite the contrary,hone it out bigger,
We found that .005 at the rod,and .009 for the cylinder eliminates scarring and burning,and greatly reduces you're chances of catastrofic failure.As bad as that sounds it is still withen briggs specs.

Before my kids showed me this computer,thats how we built  them for the first 3 years(plus a few secrets) and they worked great.

I still build my engines a bit loose and there screamers,not an opposed twin that can touch em.

This will not get you up to the big boys,but will be competitive at a small local level.Once you have a chassis(and more money)you can build bigger/better.

Save youre money for proper safty and stearing components.
And Im sorry you were hasseled so much,this question was perfectly acceptable a year ago.

10
Briggs Flathead / Re: are there twin cylinder tachs?
« on: April 19, 2007, 10:25:50 pm »
Ohhh... Understandable is fine, try sending a sponsor a request for funding in all lower case letters and see how many dollars you get! Capitalization and punctuation are instrumental parts of the English language, use them all the time and their use becomes second nature.

Much as is the case in lawn mower racing you can run 12 pounds of air in all your tires, and they'll go round and round okay, but when you get into a race situation the guy with air pressures adjusted for track conditions, and carb set for ambient temperature and humidity, is gonna clean your clock! It's all about paying attention to details Phil. I know it may seem irrelevant guys, but it's paying attention to little things, like capitallization and punctuation, that make you a winner!



Sorry rocky,I have to agree with phil,
There has been alot of crap posted,but those post where plenty legable.If Im putting a proposel together for a sponser Id think differantly,but Id be spending alot more time on that,as well as having my wife type it out,

She won't do that here,I asked :roll:

I feel like every thing I do here is stalked over by my old english teacher,god rest here soul,and that Im on who's smarter than a 5th grader.(never do good on that either)

Dont get me wrong,I appreciate the clean up,but lets not go to far,he only missed a capitol or two.

Im much more concerned with personal attacks and foul language,and yes the truly incompatent sloppy unegible post.

Even said,keep up the good work.

11
Briggs Flathead / Re: 18hp opposed twin...is it worth it ?
« on: April 19, 2007, 10:17:21 pm »
Check under GTR post in coffee shop,Don is working on it.





GTR= G-Team Racing,  all youre answers are there.

12
Briggs Flathead / Re: 18hp opposed twin...is it worth it ?
« on: April 18, 2007, 08:30:13 pm »
Ive never been to impressed with them,We have a lot of them by us,but I have no trouble beating them with my single flathead.
But they are stock and I am not.

Now that the classes have changed and they no longer have to race with the V-twins,more aftermarket pieces are becoming availble.

Check under GTR post in coffee shop,Don is working on it.

they seem to have great torque,but lack in RPMS

13
Briggs Flathead / Re: Cleaning
« on: April 17, 2007, 08:58:24 pm »
 The mineral spirets and diesel fuel do work great,But I like to keep my parts washer as clean for as long as I can,that stuffs not cheap.

By washing it in a barrel with a detergant,I get the bulk of the crud off,and after a few days,when the water has evaporated,I use the barrel for what I got it for,a burn barrel .

That way not only do I not have to change 20 gallons of parts washer fluid at 20.00/5gal. +disposel every month, I also do not dump some hazerdous chemical down a drain someplace.  :noplease: 


14
Briggs Flathead / Re: Cleaning
« on: April 17, 2007, 07:26:24 pm »
 Tear it down and clean it up,especially now that you disturbed it.

No reason why you can't hose it down,just make sure any steel parts  are dry and coated with a thin film of oil or WD40 so that it does'nt rust.This will happen fast on things like the crank and cam...

I like to use a purple cleaner,cuts oil and grease great,then I  hose it down in an old barrel,and take it to the parts washer for the rest of the disasembley and thorough cleaning.

15
Briggs Flathead / Re: compression
« on: April 13, 2007, 11:09:24 pm »
   Every stock 12hp flathead Ive had ran about 65psi,untill I put a G-TEAM cam in.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 16