Just something to consider. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Personaly, I run a new engine through a couple heat cycles around 3k rpms. Then it is on the vehicle and no holding back.

When bypassing the govner the weights and plate spring and pin should be removed. THEN one must push ball and cap out and make a bushing to take up the slack inside the cam or no oil pressure. The best thing to do if your gonna bypass a govner even if using the stoick cam and lift is have precision grind a new core it doesnt have all the holes in it. Too many rpms the stock cam tends to break.

Can you elaborate on the bushing and oil pressure? I've read around and read the sticky of another forum about governor removal on the vanguard. And have not come across any other mention of the need for a bushing or oil pressure related issues from removing the governor weights.

Reko,

   Excellent invention!

   Page 14 of the Kohler Engine Accessories Catalog (Form No. E-1953-L) shows all the electrical terminals and connectors Kohler uses. It's not viewable online but if you'll email me with your email address, I can Attach a copy to my Reply.  I keep stock on many of these components -- very handy.
   On page 10 of this Kohler Catalog, it shows their Crankcase Vacuum/Pressure Gauge as well as some other testers you might be interested in.
 
   And...at last year's Technical Update Seminar, Briggs & Stratton came out with Engine RePower Kit P/N 19615. It's a 32-section, 12" x 18" x 3" compartment-style box with 27 sections already containing electrical components -- terminals, connectors, insulators, etc.  Five sections are empty for your own special needs.  This 780-piece Kit sells for $125.00 (Special at the 2011-2012 Update only -- $75.00).  If your local dealer has one, you can get the part numbers and descriptions of all the electricals in it.  If not, I can take a digital picture of the contents and send that to you as well, if you'd like.

Thanks! Any info would be greatly appreciated, I'll send a message shortly.

---

Kinda got real busy with life, but I made it back to post a few shots of it actually done.

Finished panel with throttle lever installed, had to lose the knob for clearance with the handle.


Lugs for external power hook-up as needed plus cable staps to wrap it up neat.



Basic set of wire clamps and terminals for the briggs 16hp vanny.


Found some terminals from molex connectors for computer power supplies work for the briggs round pin terminals.


Tried it out a few times, works great. Going to make-up some clamps to add on to the ends of the pos and neg cables for the times I don't even want to disconnect the existing ones. Already started to collect a few items for version 2, bigger with more gauges.

Thanks for lookin! -- now off to do some spark plug research...

Sorry, should have explained more...George hit the nail on the head already, but here is my explaination anyway.

The box contains the basic electrical system of a tractor minus the safety and light circuits. It has a main disconnect switch, starter solenoid, start and stop buttons (in place of a keyed switch), switched and fused circuits for anti-after fire solenoid, charging system, and oil alert systems (so they can be turned off if the engine is not equiped). Also it has a voltmeter and tiny tach for monitoring purposes. A throttle lever to hook up and control engine rpm and/or governor. A couple of indicator lights to tell when a booster or battery are connected and to alert if it was hooked up backwards accidentally.

It is based off of what is needed to setup and run a newer 16HP Vanguard out of the box with an added oil pressure switch. This way there is no fussing around with grounding this and that and getting everything inbetween connected and it's not attached to a stand so I can take it wherever or store it away. If it's a race engine that doesn't have an anti-after fire solenoid, charging coil, or oil light you can just not hook them up and leave them switched off. Bottom line is I'll always have a know good starting circuit with me either at the shop or when I go mobile and I can store it away when not in use.

I'm thinking in another version I may add other things such as a pressure gauge for crankcase pressures or maybe an A/F gauge.

Hey Guys,

Been reading and enjoying for a brief while now. Thought I would put this out there to hopefully get some constructive feedback and advice. I'm sure many of you builders have a stand with all your needed electrical that stays with it, I needed something mobile that I can take to the engine. This is my first version, I could really use a couple more. Most of the components were things I had around from salvaging other pieces of equipment. Not a 100% done but you can get the idea. I just stuck to the basics and tried to keep this first one kinda simple, yet hopefully pretty universal. I'm thinking I'd like to add a little diagnostic and tuning components to the next version, but unsure which since space is a premium and so is keeping the cost down.

Your feedback or helpful tips and hints are greatly appreciated.


Need to finish triming for the throttle lever and make bracket along with finishing the lead set.


Ya know that yellow wire was just uncooperative from the beginning.


Lead set and throttle. Need to find a source or part numbers for those B&S connectors to make connecting easier.


I got a little lax on the wire control since I hastfully grabbed some stiffer stranded wire I had laying around to get started. It made tight bends and good wire control a pain, should have been more patient and got the right stuff.


Thanks for reading, reko