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Messages - fx28

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For the sumps that use a gasket I use the rigid silicone around the o ring area. regular silicone just wont work. also torque sump bolts  down and then loosen up and retorque. I would recommend a little blue Loctite on bolts with retorque.

Kohler Engines / Re: Command Aftermarket parts?
« on: April 17, 2017, 04:24:32 PM »
Lakota racing  1-330-627-7255

Driveline / Re: Surplus Center Vs. McMaster Pulleys
« on: November 11, 2015, 11:31:03 AM »
We also run Temcumseh twins, so, along with the 820's and 8" rear rims, we are really, really slow. Sometimes I don't even know why we pull them out of the trailer.

wow Bert, the Prozac is really starting to soften your image!!      :( :(

Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: EC's camshaft
« on: June 29, 2015, 09:37:53 AM »
quick way to check any cam is @ tdc of the overlap of cam. This is where the intake is just opening and exhaust is closing, both valves or lifters should be close to the same height when piston is at tdc.  Most cams have a split overlap and it makes a great starting point to start the degreeing process.

Coffee Shop / Re: Questionable "internal" engine modifications.
« on: June 06, 2015, 11:30:25 AM »
And just for the record, I have fabulous hips. The chicks all tell me so..

As on of my old girlfriends once said, you have berthing hips !   :woo: :woo:

Coffee Shop / Re: Questionable "internal" engine modifications.
« on: June 06, 2015, 09:25:21 AM »
Why would anyone be interested in what it costs to run in the supermod- fxt class ?  That is what it was for to begin with for the ones that have an unlimited budget. I have heard the quote before that you cant stop the progression of the sport and this is what it is evolving to.  Lets just put a hood on a the kart chassis and save some money and have more equality !  :lol:  Be carefull what you wish for , you might get more than you ask for

Kohler Engines / Re: puzzled
« on: March 30, 2015, 10:54:08 AM »
More than likely head gasket is blown as PFG56 says.    usually will start smoking when load is applied.  Also check for being overfull on oil, carbs can leak and drain into crankcase and raise oil level. a lot of times it thins the oil down so much it makes it hard to read on stick. Check air filter for oil as well.   If your breather is puking oil it normally will get into air filter as well

Kohler Engines / Re: ch18
« on: February 09, 2015, 01:31:21 PM »
You should do a leakdown test first to determine where you are loosing compression. Your rings might still be good !  Have seen several of these with carboned up valves and or blown head gasket.   Kohler is your best bet on parts if it is all stock

Coffee Shop / Re: Ron Atchison
« on: January 29, 2015, 12:18:04 PM »
That number is for Rocket Ron in South Carolina, I think the guy you are looking for is in Illinois somewhere, sorry I don't know his number. I think George might know how to get a hold him.    found his email

Chassis / Re: F/Xt chassis offset, Why is?
« on: December 17, 2014, 11:37:51 AM »
LTO    to get as much left side weight possible. if you are not running ovals you would want it centered

Kohler Engines / Re: Turning down a 1-1/8" crankshaft question
« on: December 15, 2014, 12:24:24 PM »
Like some of the above posts, the pto end of crank is hardened. Some of them are not very easy to turn down, would be better to have it ground. Turning off .060 a side as hard as it is plus add the interruption of the keyway, making it hard to get it round is why it is desirable to have it ground. Also getting the radius put back in right.
    I have done it before and had no problems, just might be easier to find a 1" crank. The commands, I believe are mostly interchangeable other than the 30HP. Just check to make sure if it uses the shim or not to be sure of end play.


Coffee Shop / Re: BP's
« on: December 08, 2014, 12:49:06 PM »
Bring that thing out George,   wanna see you on your knees again  :lol: :lol:

Paul from what I have seen the some of the races the fxt is not a gentleman's class

Coffee Shop / Re: BP's
« on: December 06, 2014, 01:59:42 PM »
with the seat height rule implemented by the uslmra, I don't see the need to change much of anything. By previous rules my seat height was as low as it could go and still be legal. my height dropped 4.5" with the rule change and I feel a huge difference in handling and still trying to figure out how to make it better cause I know it is there. Spun out several times this year and thought to myself that it would have gone over before. I have run the class for several years and still and am still wanting to stand up to the challenge of a bp machine.
   Don't see the need to drop frame height or to go to 6" wheels. seat height accomplishes both things.... lower center of gravity.  Besides there are other classes that need to go before bp and I will not stir the pot on that ! It is one of the classes that made the mower racing as popular as it is today for the fans. They still look like mowers and have a cool sound when a group is racing and are fun to watch with the perceived ill handling.
Now to the person that thinks the numbers are dwindling in the bp class it might look that way regionally, but its still alive and well. I think that what you are seeing in some are monkey see monkey do and jumping to a different class like the super mods.  Are they easier to drive?????...... why yes of course they are. What most don't realize is with a centrifugal clutch  heals a multitude of handling sins over a tension belt clutch. My question and be truthful with yourselves, most that have gone to those classes have never driven an fx style mower with the cent. clutch.   Which also.....wait for it.............................. :woo: just like driving a go kart, which is what it is designed after.
            Check you local kart tracks out, up north here anyways and see how that is working out. The whole charm to racing lawn mowers is that you are taking something that you use for work and turn into something fast and fun. That is the appeal to venures that host races to have the mowers. 

  I know there are many of you that would like to argue me on my talking points about safety this or handling that but please just think about how we got to where we are today with this sport and not ruin it like the karters have just to appeal to ourselves about what type of mower we are racing.   I say most of this light hearted so just do take it to hard.   By the way I bought a new Trick Kart chassis about 8 years ago that only has maybe 4 races on it.

Getting bored already this winter  :( :(


Honda and Clone Engines / Re: Gxv 390 flywheel
« on: February 23, 2014, 08:54:55 PM »
The flywheel will fit. The problem is getting a starter that will work.  The solenoid shift starters for the gxv I think has the right gear, but they are hard to find. They came on the Honda 3000 series rear engine riders, 3009 and 3011 models. They stopped making them in the early 90's and I don't recall seeing that type of starter used on anything else. Probably still get one thru parts but would cost more than flywheel. Last one I had I sold to Ken Jones. keep an eye on ebay or craigslist, you might get lucky.

Chuck Miller

Driveline / Re: belts and pulleys
« on: December 25, 2013, 06:55:58 PM »
 No matter where your clutch is mounted the way you want to do, it will work fine. It will turn same rpm on crank as jackshaft. I have seen some open class karters do this for many years.   1 to 1 on primary is fine as long as you can get your ratio on secondary.   A width belt will work fine, you will however need to run at minimum 4" to 5" diameter pulleys to reduce slippage.  While it might seem more economical running belt, there is some power loss and also depending on location of jackshaft the diameter of pulleys could become a clearance issue

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