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Newcomers / Hello all - From Southern Maine
« Last post by yardman on Yesterday at 07:05:41 AM »
Hi there guys and gals,

After last winter's substantial (for me) project, a '78 Fiat roadster resto, I got use to having a garage project for weekends and considered another. I've had an interest in small engines and antique lawn / garden tractors so I thought I might try my hand at a racing mower build. My arsenal has one candidate imo, which is an early 70's (my guess but not verified) Yardman:


 This was a freebie and I like the look. Frame sheet metal is thick and excellent cond. I have welding and fab skills, tools and access to a res. garage machine shop if needed. Also have a supply of 1'x1'x1/8 wall square tubing and some 1"x2". My iron worker friend has a scrap area I can rummage as well. I spoke a couple times to a local racer and discussed ARMA Super Stock build and printed rules / build rules. He said folks around here build to ARMA.
 Frame has been stripped of all components and I'm looking at reinforcing it. Mocked up on table w/ 4.25" ground clearance and need actual turf tires and decent wheels and hubs to determine live rear kart axle location and to-be-built front axle / steering design and dimensions.
 I have a couple Peerless 700's, a 5 spd and a 3 spd. I've gone through both and they are tight and excel. shape.
 Having never done this before I know will take longer but I'm pretty detail oriented and confidant I'll pull it off eventually.

 Here's a recent project I'm just finishing dialing in the belt drive and will cut a cardboard pattern for a sheetmetal guard today:
1960 Wheel Horse Suburban w/ new 212 Predator (just noticed the pic isn't w/ new engine).

 This does pretty good wheelies w/ new engine. Tractor also came w. original cart. This pic the day I brought it home:


 Also have a freebie Bolens ST125, w/ Briggs 12.5 opposed twin non running. Been troubleshooting this off-n-on, replaced magneto / coil yesterday and fired up for the first time in years. Will rebuild carb and get tractor working but not sure of any future plans.
 Also have 1956 Frankin-Bolens that's running, a very nice Simplicity hydro, and a '04? Craftsman LT1000 17.5 that's mint, pulley swapped and maybe someday a woods / mud mower.
 
 Oh, and a picture of the Fiat:


 I'm sure I'll be a regular visitor here and I'm look forward to learning from your expertise.

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Racing Mower Builds / Re: Kamloops, BC mod class racer
« Last post by turbo_bird on October 12, 2018, 02:31:45 PM »
Here's the tube parts I made, and the bender I used. I made the second hoop today so I've got my grill support too. I don't have a good for this mower, so I'm going to cut one out of aluminum sheet.
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: Kamloops, BC mod class racer
« Last post by turbo_bird on October 11, 2018, 09:45:34 PM »
Cool, thanks. I was thinking of building hubs like you linked to, but was worried they wouldn't hold up. I can whip a couple up with some couplers and my dad's lathe easy enough. If it doesn't last I can just try something different then. I'm going to use the stock front wheels, and I'll probably reinforce them with some plate like you did. One of the local racers i talked to mentioned that too. Having a wheel center come apart during a race would probably be pretty exciting. I was working with some 3/4" x .065" wall stainless tubing at work today and had some scraps, so I bent up a couple nerf bars and a dash support. The problem is I work away from home and have flights booked until February, so I might have to see if they'll fit a suitcase. I'll probably get some funny looks at the airport with them. It kind of sucks, I have lots of scrap tubing at home but the bender for 3/4" is about $1000, and I only have access to it when I'm at work.
Kristian
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: Kamloops, BC mod class racer
« Last post by Negrey on October 11, 2018, 02:04:37 PM »
On one of my mowers I cut out the 3/4 center and welded in a 1" shafting coupler, it's not perfectly true, but neither are stock rims, haven't had any issues. Also reinforced the rim by welding a plate from the coupler to the outside diameter of the rim
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: Kamloops, BC mod class racer
« Last post by turbo_bird on October 11, 2018, 07:22:25 AM »
The hubs are 3 bolt, but welding new centers into my wheels or making adapters wouldn't be hard. Do people use the other style ones and they work good? I was concerned with something like that wobbling on the axle because it doesn't clamp on. I would think that that any movement would quickly destroy the axle and hub. Maybe I'm overthinking it though.
Kristian
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: Kamloops, BC mod class racer
« Last post by Negrey on October 11, 2018, 06:35:17 AM »
Double check on those hubs, they look like only 3 bolt, and the studs are too small anyway. http://www.kartworks.ca/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=198&products_id=1690
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: Kamloops, BC mod class racer
« Last post by turbo_bird on October 09, 2018, 08:17:01 PM »
I've been mostly just figuring out what I can use for parts so far. The ATV wheels I was going to buy are apparently discontinued and no longer available, so I picked up some 8x6 trailer wheels with a 4 on 4" bolt pattern. They were way more expensive, but they came with tires that I can use on my boat trailer, so figured that was worth it. I picked up bearings for a 1" axle, and some other stuff like sprockets and hubs for them and my brake rotor. I was thinking of building my own wheel hubs using split tapered hubs to keep them tight on the axle, but then I found these go-kart hubs in Canada for what looks like a decent price.
http://www.kartworks.ca/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=198&products_id=1229
Would they be strong enough for racing on a fairly rough surface? They'll certainly be lighter than what I was thinking, and require less fabrication. I mounted one of my new tires to check the diameter, and they're 15.5" inflated to 15 psi. I need 5" of clearance to the chassis, which is 2" tall, so this means I'll run my axle above the chassis and not have to notch anything. If I ever switch to smaller tires I'll have to change things up, but I'll cross that bridge if I ever get to it. I've decided I'm going to use the chassis pan from the Craftsman. I can reinforce the frame in basically any way I see fit, so I'm going to weld some reinforcements to the outside rather than the inside like most do. I got the pan all cleaned up today and came up with a bit of a plan at least.
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Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: 23 hp vanguard on golf cart
« Last post by rotten ron on October 08, 2018, 10:14:34 PM »
If you want to rev it higher you should buy an  Arc aluminum flywheel the stock one could explode and kill you .Then the connecting  rods will be the next thing to break and should be replaced with Arc billet,they are good for 12000 RPM but we have tested them higher than that.Valve springs and retainers will also have to be stronger
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Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: 23 hp vanguard on golf cart
« Last post by atc31510 on October 08, 2018, 05:48:56 PM »
I ordered the 7-1/4" Heavy Duty Primary Drive Clutch (CVTECH Series 06)from Vegas carts. It has the stock driven clutch.
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Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: 23 hp vanguard on golf cart
« Last post by cycloneracer on October 08, 2018, 04:35:56 PM »
What clutch did you put on the engine?    Did you work on the driven pully? 
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